View Full Version : 150A Alternator installed
Hotsauce
09/25/2004, 07:56 AM
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/111150a_alt.jpg
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/111150a.jpg
I purchased this from Rickster quite a while ago, but never got around to installing it till now. Its a fairly easy bolt on installation, done from below. The trans cooler lines do not need to be disconnected. I would advise disconnecting the battery though.
Idle voltage: 14.3V, so no worries about charging at idle. Some high amp alternators don't charge till about 1500-2000rpm.
John C.
SPAZZ
09/25/2004, 08:31 AM
I also purchased one through Rickster and suposedly it is 160 amp with a micro pulley to charge at idle..powder coated purple.
no worries at all...I am going to send the stock one in to get wound up to 180amp...either alternator and my RedTop and Yellow top are enough to weld with.
Joe_Black
09/25/2004, 03:05 PM
Don't forget the mod on the PlanetIsuzu website where you can get the 180AMP GM alternator. Just as easy and lighter on the wallet too! Always better to get more for less. ;Do;
SPAZZ
09/25/2004, 09:25 PM
don't they require a core exchange for the 180 amp alternator?? where as the 160 amp one does not....prices are always different for a rebuilt one that requires a exchange vice a rebuilt or new one that does not.
Joe_Black
09/27/2004, 06:38 AM
Nope, no core at all. Brand new GM Vortec High-Output alternator with lifetime warranty, 180 Amps @ 1800 RPM only $129.00: AlterStart. (http://verizonsupersite.com/4alterstartcom/pages/store/skudetail.nhtml?profile=highoutputalternators&uid=10999&returnURL=http%3A//verizonsupersite.com/4alterstartcom/pages/common/sitesearch.nhtml%3Fquery%3D180%20amp%20gm&catuid=10013)
james1_10018
09/27/2004, 09:25 AM
what do you guys mean no charge at idle ?
Does it mean my alternator isnt charging at idle and hence I am using the battery only ?
Joe_Black
09/27/2004, 09:36 AM
You're getting charge at idle, which usually only takes a few amps. Keep in mind the alternator provide juice for the electrical system and charging the battery. The battery is a starting battery, and only provides power if the load at any given time exceeds the capacity of the alternator at a given output. Alternator output increases with RPM, but also realize that load on the engine increases with amperage draw as well. Some folk want higher output from the alternator for such things as winches, sound systems, and portable welders. For normal use though the stock alternator is fine, unless it needs to be replaced. In that case, the $129 180 Amp unit looks REAL good compared to the OEM $$$!
Is the GM Vortec High-Output unit a direct bolt in like the one from Rickster? I need to do this soon as I have now exceeded the stock units‘ capacity with several high drawing amps and more electrical accessories than should be allowed ; ).
Red top is not holding up to the strain either so I am switching to the yellow very soon.
Joe_Black
09/27/2004, 11:32 AM
You have to make a couple simple mods to the bracket but that's about it. A monkey with a file could do it, so I'm sure it'd be a no-brainer for you. ;pg; Here's a link to the PlanetIsuzoo article: 180 Amp Alternator Mod. (http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm/99)
Cool - the company is in Dallas so I’m gonna try to get it in before the Houston meet so we can put it in - maybe that will stave off replacing the red top as my draw has been more than the stock alternator can keep up with. I’m also adding a PAC8 isolater relay that will disconnect all items I’ve added unless the vehicle is running or in accessory position.
I just ordered one from Alterstart in Dallas - 180 amp, $129.99 plus $22 shipping pretty much anywhere even to Lewisville. Will replace the negative cable as well (recommended) and document the process on the VX this weekend at the Houston meet.
I asked if we could get a group deal - first he said if we bought 12, then he came back and said that was already the lowest he can go. Lifetime warranty too!
Beats the $700+ at a dealer or $400 at many autoparts and I have the old one as a spare! I wonder is these are any better at handling submersion in mud? Lisa, want to test mine?!
WyrreJ
09/27/2004, 08:28 PM
Originally posted by Tone
Red top is not holding up to the strain either so I am switching to the yellow very soon. You might want to consider the blue top "marine" line.
I compared the biggest yellow, the D34 to the blue D34M and spec-wise they seemed identical both at 750 cold-cranking amps and you can easily fit the next step up blue-top, the D31M with 900 cold-cranking amps in the VX, I know this because that's what I have now - just takes a new bracket to go over the top of the battery, about $5 from autozone. Plus, being a marine battery you get an extra set of terminals in case you need to hook something else up temporarily.
Joe_Black
09/28/2004, 05:53 AM
The marine Blue Top discharges and cycles differently than the Red or Yellow and wouldn't be very suitable for auto use. As for the extra set of terminals, if you use low-profile studs you can use the side terminals already on the Red and Yellow. ;Do;
Good info Joe. Does anyone know for sure the output of the stock alt? The article on the wire says 60/70 but that is for a SOHC 3.2. When searching on Alterstarts page, they show the VX as having a 90 Amp which sounds hi to me but then again maybe not.
Joe_Black
09/28/2004, 07:48 AM
IIRC 80 amps, but I've seen the 90 amp rating too. It's a slightly larger unit than the 3.2 alternator, so maybe has a handful more windings. Still dinky though. ;pg;
Maugan_VX
09/28/2004, 08:07 AM
its 90 IIRC.
on the ole 3.2 there were actually two amperages available. a 65 and I think a 75.
WyrreJ
09/28/2004, 11:23 AM
Originally posted by Joe_Black
The marine Blue Top discharges and cycles differently than the Red or Yellow and wouldn't be very suitable for auto use. Got any details on the difference? All the research I did prior to making the purchase was that marine batteries tend to have lower CCA's but higher sustainable output vs automotive batteries. Since Optima spells out the CCA's for each model and the marine batteries of interest all have equal or higher CCA's than the automotive, that issue did not apply. Additionally, most of the literature that I found used the terms marine and deep-cycle interchangeably. Thus leading me to conclude that the yellow tops are just a marketing difference to have officially labeled automotive batteries for automotive stores to sell.
Joe_Black
09/28/2004, 02:39 PM
I've got some good battery info links on the PC at home so will share as soon as power is restored there, unless I get a major breather here at work to go surf the net a bit. I've been trying to learn a lot about batteries since I'll basically have a wind-generator farm with the new house. In a nutshell though, the Blue Top is more suited for longer drains under light load while the Yellow Top is short drain under high load. Doesn't really explain it well, but the Yellow Top can cycle deeper & harder than the Blue. I better get those links, all my explanations are starting to sound like porn! :mbrasd:
SPAZZ
09/28/2004, 03:21 PM
stocl is SUPOSED to be 90 amp...but I do not think that mine was over 60AMP....depends on how cheep the manufacture wanted to be with parts...ie whatever was laying around they stuffed in.
Got the new alternator in today - has one large terminal on the back and a 4 pin recessed connector - does our alternator have that plug or is it not used? I wanted to add a 4guage cable I made up straight to the battery as the 2 16 gauge wires coming off seem to go a long, convoluted route the fuse box to get to the battery. Any thought or experience out there?
psychos2
09/29/2004, 08:33 PM
i have a marine blue top in my vx. you ask why? because it was free. the blue top works just fine.there is an engine in a boat ,just like in a car why would the battery work any different. shawn
Hotsauce
09/29/2004, 09:07 PM
Heres the back of the stock alt. Similar connector, but only 3 prongs. Also its in a different spot.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/111altback.jpg
the stud connector is the + output.
John C.
****e! Then that ain't gonna work unless I can get a GM pig tail and figure out which 3 of the 4 are required. Thanks. Anyone out there do the swap with the 180amper?
Joe_Black
09/30/2004, 08:35 AM
It should've come with the GM pigtail to mod, but I imagine you can pick one up at AutoZone etc. for cheap. RTFM: 180Amp Mod Instructions. (http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm/99)
Thanks, I had forgotten that part of the instructions - harness is on order. But, the four to three wire adaptation is not spelled out in the above instructions. GM is providing a pin out and I have the electrical troubleshooting manual for the Isuzu so I should be able to figure it out.
One other thing, if you remove the 16g wires going to the fuse box under the hood, I’m not sure how well if would work to feed current back from the battery since it was not designed that way. I was going to take the new 4 gauge wire straight up to the battery and leave the two 16g wires connected as is. Any thoughts?
SGT.BATGUANO
10/02/2004, 10:57 AM
Since you have the manual, you've probably answered your own question.
You would need to install a 100 amp fuse to protect the dash fuse box, ign. switched acc'ys., and some fuse/relay box components, if you abandoned or bypassed the white wires. Those white wires really need to be upsized as 16 ga. is really only good for about 15 amps in "open air".
Run as many as possible, high draw add-ons directly off the battery with a terminal block using individual fusing.
P.S. It looks like the plug in connector only has 2 wires.
kpaske
10/02/2004, 11:33 AM
I've also got an Optima Blue Top in my VX. Before I purchased it, I did a little research and came up with little difference between the Blue Top and the Red Top, which is the one designed for automotive use. The Blue may cycle deeper than the Red, but they were both signicantly different from the Yellow, which wouldn't be as appropriate for a starting battery. The main difference is that the Blue was designed to drain slower during periods of no use. In other words, a boat would likely sit unused for longer periods of time than a car, and the Blue Top was designed to hold that charge longer. In a car, this is actually a plus for someone like me who travels a lot, and even with a high power stereo system I've never had any problems starting.
New alt has 4 wires - alterstart says the only one of them is needed (switched, pin L) to get it to work. I thought the Isuzu one had 3 but 2 would be easier - switched and hot always.
How many pins does the 150 above have? Did it come with the needed pigtail?
I will put a 180 amp fuse going to the battery and leave the other wires going to the distribution block.
SPAZZ
10/03/2004, 09:00 PM
I got the 160 amp alternator from Rickster and it is a direct bolt/plug in.
nothing else needed. I got it with the micro pulley to charge at idle.
SGT.BATGUANO
10/04/2004, 12:20 AM
Referring to pages 22 & 10 of the electrical manual, it looks like both wires are switched with "L" going to the gen. light and shift interlock and blower controls, and terminal "S" going to PCM and emission controls.
Joe_Black
10/04/2004, 05:23 AM
Hmmm... I see an opportunity here. Pre-made pigtails for using the GM 180 HO alt with the VX! ;Do; Then it would truly be a direct bolt-in/plug-n-play install.
Thanks Sarg - so I only need 2 wires of the 4 on the GM unit - I will complete a how to on this - BTW, how did you know the terminal letters on the GM unit?
Update, I don’t believe the 180 will fit the VX without a lot of work I took the stock one out and got the 180 in the opening but there was quite a bit of interference as the mounting ears are significantly different. Also the pulley needs to come out more than the length of the shaft and there were no spacers included. Someone else can be the guinea pig for this one - it’s going back and if I do a swap, it will be with the drop in 150 amp one.
I did run an additional fused 4 gauge wire straight from the stock alt directly to the battery and increased the ground to the frame to a 4 gauge as well. We’ll see if that helps at all. Replacing the stock battery clamps and soldering the new crimp on ends has improved things already.
There is a size difference in addition to the mounting ears being in different locations.
Who has the name of the place Rickster is getting the 150amp alts from?
Great - just looked at their return policy and the alt is NOT returnable. They do list a 150 amp one for 98-989 Troopers but it is $399! http://verizonsupersite.com/4alterstartcom/pages/store/skudetail.nhtml?profile=highoutputalternators&uid=12752&returnURL=http%3A//verizonsupersite.com/4alterstartcom/pages/common/sitesearch.nhtml%3Fquery%3Disuzu&catuid=10013
Hotsauce
10/04/2004, 08:09 PM
Read the small print at the bottom. 399 is retail, they are selling it at $299USD.
John C.
Joe_Black
10/04/2004, 08:09 PM
So the 180 alt you got doesn't fit? At all? :confused:
Mounting ears are in slightly different positions and are shorter plus the overall diameter is enough larger unless I just don’t have a clue and didn’t RTFM!
SGT.BATGUANO
10/05/2004, 01:23 AM
It won't help now, but I was using the terminal letters for the VX alt/reg.
Industry standard lettering or mere coincidence?
Sorry to hear of the install problem.
Throw that puppy up on epay as a last resort.
SPAZZ
10/05/2004, 04:36 AM
it is alot of work to make it fit....
I purchased my 160 amp alternator directly from Rickster.
Joe_Black
10/05/2004, 06:19 AM
Tone, if you're not going to do the mod I may take the alt off your hands. Then maybe I'll do a VX-specific set of instructions as this seems like it could be an extremely good value for a proven new life-time warrantied OEM part rather than a converted used one for more $$$ with less output. Having followed along as three of our Florida brethren went through alternator replacement after last years muddy Ocala meet I immediately latched on to the PlanetIsuzoo mod as a good alternative. Unfortunately I just haven't had the need (more power!) to try it yet and get my hands on the actual install. In the install instructions they do address the slight bracket difference by reaming or over-drilling one of the mount holes on the alternator to allow alignment. I don't personally know if they're that close or not, you'd have to comment since you've tried it. ;Do;
It still seems a little large to fit and the ears are slightly different - the splash sheild that is removed to get the alt out IS an integral part of the mount as the alt does not move once tightened down - thank goodness there it no tensioning to do with it! It was hard even getting the stock one back in there after all this. See picture for size diff
Rickster
10/05/2004, 09:32 AM
I can get these vehicle specific, bolt on, plug and play for
Alternator 160 amp $275
Powdercoat $ 25 additional
Micro Pulley $ 20 additional
Plus shipping
I've had one on my VX for 2 years, no problems.
Rickster
Joe_Black
10/05/2004, 10:01 AM
Since I'll have the IronMan in the shop for bit while the sway-bars are off for that project it'll give me an opportunity to pull the stock alternator and look at the bracket. Tone, what do you think about a custom bracket? I'm thinking about maybe a package for the VX using that 180 amp alternator, so you could get the whole thing with a VX specific pigtail and maybe bracket and keep the total cost under $200.
You’d be the one to figure this out for sure - email me and we’ll work something out and I'll send it to you. I leave for Cabo Friday morning so get with me b4 then so I can get it out to you. DOn’t know how you have the time for all these projects......;eekr;
Rickster
10/05/2004, 01:37 PM
Keep me informed as well, I am going to have to put 2 alternators on the truck for the new system.
Rickster
AlaskaVX
10/05/2004, 01:44 PM
If you guys are getting into new design brackets you should look into making one that brings the alternator up higher in the engine compartment. I would buy such a bracket, and I am sure a lot of other offroaders would. I believe the same bracket could work on the troopers too so there would be a large marcket out there.
Jay Dunford
10/05/2004, 04:40 PM
Originally posted by AlaskaVX
If you guys are getting into new design brackets you should look into making one that brings the alternator up higher in the engine compartment. I would buy such a bracket, and I am sure a lot of other offroaders would. I believe the same bracket could work on the troopers too so there would be a large marcket out there.
I bet VXCrazy would be interested!! ;Db;
Joe_Black
10/06/2004, 08:49 AM
Originally posted by Tone
You’d be the one to figure this out for sure - email me and we’ll work something out and I'll send it to you. I leave for Cabo Friday morning so get with me b4 then so I can get it out to you. DOn’t know how you have the time for all these projects......;eekr;
Will do! As for time, I have no clue myself... ;pg;
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