dkmiller68
01/16/2005, 06:05 PM
Dynamat experience…My Christmas project 2004... Bought 100 sq feet of the brown bread product…You get a small roller to press the stuff against the bare (and cleaned) metal. It broke early in the project and I found a plastic one in my wallpaper supplies. It broke soon too. I bought a wider one (about 2 inches at Lowes…that was all they had) for $7 and it held up no problem.
I purchased the trim removal tool kit from Harbor Freight to help remove the interior trim. It was about $15 with shipping included. I only used 1 of the 4 tools in this kit and in fact had to modify it to work better. On the handle end (which is narrower and stiffer) that the business end, I cut a slot so as to remove the ‘Christmas tree’ snaps on the rear side panels. Actually, they weren’t in the panels, but were still in the body after the panels pop off. The original end of the tool is too wide to fit down into the recessed pocket that the snap is sitting. Hopefully I can attach a photo…if not check my photo gallery.
The service manual proved most valuable as it tell the exact sequence and procedure to remove trim, handles, etc.
My VX is my daily ride, so the challenge was to get it done quickly. I had to work alone as the Mrs. doesn’t like working on cars (can you believe it?); much less in unheated garages. I used my construct work lights without the tripod to provide illumination and heat as I worked.
The actual work…
First, I like to leave the easy parts for last (when the interest is waning). I decided to leave the 3 doors until the end also because if I run out of material I don’t have to leave the VX disassembled too long.
I first deconstructed the interior. Remove the seats. Working from the passenger side door, move clockwise (looking down on VX) (but not the door itself). The hardware from each panel was put in its zip lock baggie and labeled. DO THIS. Removing the overhead handles was tricky. The goal here was to get the headliner out. Once the headliner is out…dynamatt that area and returned headliner to VX. Now the goal was the floor. Once the floor is done, you can return the VX to the drive mode by reinstalling the consoles, seats, and seat belts should you need to go buy more beer or a new roller.
Next is the covering of the side interior spaces. The job is slow working alone…you will have more fun and faster progress if you have an assistant. I found my 50 plus year old body sore from all the contortions. Recommendation…buy a hot tub.
Sometimes the scissors would gum up with the tar-like stuff but a little denatured alcohol and a small piece of scotch brite cleans it right up. I also used my 500 watt construction light to both light and warm the VX (unheated garage).
The task itself is difficult, fun, and satisfying. The results are very good…much reduction in road noise.
I ran out of the 100square feet half way through the rear door. I then purchased another 25 sq. ft. roll and discovered that the door weren’t the easiest to do; in fact, they were the hardest. There are 2 surfaces that need to be ‘dynamatted’ and some sharp edges to contend with. The additional 25 sq. ft. ran out as I completed the doors and still have ½ of the rear door unfinished.
Now for the speakers…I put 6.5 in. Alpines in the front and moved the fronts to the back. I used a jig saw to enlarge the holes in the brackets…took about 1 hour for each one. I have purchased a pair of tweeters to add to the rear but they haven’t arrived yet. Added a 10 subwoofer (JL Audio) which sits in a JL Audio enclosure. Now the 1 hour commute will more enjoyable.
Recap recommendations…stronger roller…get trim removal tool…use the VX service manual and mark all parts in individual baggies and purchase 150 sq feet.
Photos later. Don
added day later...Forgot to mention that I also crammed all the holes between the inner body and outer body with insulation...I used egg-crate foam and pipe insulation [from home depot/lowes] (the surround a pipe style...$1.25 per 8 foot lenght)(works real well for shoving deep into can't reach areas) (after giving it the 'rub test', verifing that it wouldn't squeak) and then I used the spray foam for other areas.
I purchased the trim removal tool kit from Harbor Freight to help remove the interior trim. It was about $15 with shipping included. I only used 1 of the 4 tools in this kit and in fact had to modify it to work better. On the handle end (which is narrower and stiffer) that the business end, I cut a slot so as to remove the ‘Christmas tree’ snaps on the rear side panels. Actually, they weren’t in the panels, but were still in the body after the panels pop off. The original end of the tool is too wide to fit down into the recessed pocket that the snap is sitting. Hopefully I can attach a photo…if not check my photo gallery.
The service manual proved most valuable as it tell the exact sequence and procedure to remove trim, handles, etc.
My VX is my daily ride, so the challenge was to get it done quickly. I had to work alone as the Mrs. doesn’t like working on cars (can you believe it?); much less in unheated garages. I used my construct work lights without the tripod to provide illumination and heat as I worked.
The actual work…
First, I like to leave the easy parts for last (when the interest is waning). I decided to leave the 3 doors until the end also because if I run out of material I don’t have to leave the VX disassembled too long.
I first deconstructed the interior. Remove the seats. Working from the passenger side door, move clockwise (looking down on VX) (but not the door itself). The hardware from each panel was put in its zip lock baggie and labeled. DO THIS. Removing the overhead handles was tricky. The goal here was to get the headliner out. Once the headliner is out…dynamatt that area and returned headliner to VX. Now the goal was the floor. Once the floor is done, you can return the VX to the drive mode by reinstalling the consoles, seats, and seat belts should you need to go buy more beer or a new roller.
Next is the covering of the side interior spaces. The job is slow working alone…you will have more fun and faster progress if you have an assistant. I found my 50 plus year old body sore from all the contortions. Recommendation…buy a hot tub.
Sometimes the scissors would gum up with the tar-like stuff but a little denatured alcohol and a small piece of scotch brite cleans it right up. I also used my 500 watt construction light to both light and warm the VX (unheated garage).
The task itself is difficult, fun, and satisfying. The results are very good…much reduction in road noise.
I ran out of the 100square feet half way through the rear door. I then purchased another 25 sq. ft. roll and discovered that the door weren’t the easiest to do; in fact, they were the hardest. There are 2 surfaces that need to be ‘dynamatted’ and some sharp edges to contend with. The additional 25 sq. ft. ran out as I completed the doors and still have ½ of the rear door unfinished.
Now for the speakers…I put 6.5 in. Alpines in the front and moved the fronts to the back. I used a jig saw to enlarge the holes in the brackets…took about 1 hour for each one. I have purchased a pair of tweeters to add to the rear but they haven’t arrived yet. Added a 10 subwoofer (JL Audio) which sits in a JL Audio enclosure. Now the 1 hour commute will more enjoyable.
Recap recommendations…stronger roller…get trim removal tool…use the VX service manual and mark all parts in individual baggies and purchase 150 sq feet.
Photos later. Don
added day later...Forgot to mention that I also crammed all the holes between the inner body and outer body with insulation...I used egg-crate foam and pipe insulation [from home depot/lowes] (the surround a pipe style...$1.25 per 8 foot lenght)(works real well for shoving deep into can't reach areas) (after giving it the 'rub test', verifing that it wouldn't squeak) and then I used the spray foam for other areas.