Non-VX Related HELP

[XCross69]

I have a 93 Honda Del Sol that is my daily driver, well yesterday morning I go to start it and it kicks over just fine but it won't start? I tried several times and never could get it to run....(had to then drive the VX in the RAIN;-( ) Anyway, when I got home the car started just fine but later that night it did the same thing of kicking over but wouldn't start...Anyone have a tip of what to check or do? Someone had brought up the fuel pump being bad?? I have no idea...how hard is it to change out a fuel pump that is located in the gas tank?

Not sure what to do so voice your opinions...the car has been running fine up until now! Need to get this fixed and if it's something I can do I'll do it...

[mbeach]

I assume that your spark is OK, you can just unplug a wire and hold it (with insulated pliers) near a ground to see the spark. Do this BEFORE you start messing around with your fuel system.
EDIT: Was the Del Sol sitting in the rain all day, or only overnight -it could be a spark issue due to the humidity. Spray some WD-40 in the distributor cap to displace any water.

Then you need to make sure that it's NOT getting fuel. You should be able to hear the fuel pump kick on when you turn your key to the ON position. If you hear it (subtle whirring sound), then you might still be getting fuel. You could have an assistant turn the key while you loosen a fuel line (this is dangerous, do at your own risk) over a drip pan.
If your pump is working, but your not getting any (or enough) fuel at the injectors, it may be a simple filter issue. Change it and be on your way.
If the pump is dead (check for fuel flow before the filter), it's not tough to change. On a Civic, it's located under the rear seat. It takes one connector and 3-4 bolts to remove. Some models have an integrated pump and filter, I dunno about the Del Sol. If you do a direct swap with a new pump, you might have to swap the pre-filter from the old pump (looks like a sock) as well.
In any case, your gas tank is under your rear cargo area, ahead of your rear wheels. You have to somehow get to the top of that to access your fuel pump.

This is a very DIY job once the troubleshooting is accomplished.

[XCross69]

Wow, thanks for helpful advice!!

My Honda sits outside all the time and the past few days we have been getting some storms and really humid during the day & night. I will pick up a fuel filter today, because that probably needs to be replaced anyway, & spray some WD-40 in the d-cap and see if that does anything for me. I'll also check for the pump coming on when I flip the key.

Thanks again for the tips!!

[VehiGAZ]

XCross69 - When you are checking the distributor cap, look inside the distributor and under the cap and look for any lightish colored irregular (zig-zaggy) lines. If you see any, check where the cap and distributor meet and see if it appears that the seal is breached near the lines. This happened to me when I lived in StL years ago - the humidity can get in there and interferes with the spark distribution, and can actually cause arcing inside the distributor. Whichever piece of the distributor shows the wear, replace it, or you may want to replace the distributor entirely.

And if you so the fuel pump check as mbeach suggested (letting the fual pump into ta bucket, remember - safety first! - keep your cigarette in our mouth, not in your hands! ;-)

[SGT.BATGUANO]

you can check for fuel by cranking it for 10 sec wait 1 min. then crank for 10 sec. if it doesn't start sniff the tailpipe for raw gas smell.

[XCross69]

The car started up on the first try yesterday after work...went on and replaced the fuel filter & noticed the d-cap was missing a screw, went on and took it off, shot some wd-40 in it put it back on & replaced the missing screw. Where the screw was missing could have easily been allowing moisture to get in. Started fine this morning so I am driving it, hope the DS doesn't fail me :(

Thanks for all the advice!

[mbeach]

Those earlier Honda distributors use aluminum contacts on the cap and rotor, they are very sensitive to wear and the aforementioned arcing issue. A new cap/rotor should set you back $20, and is cheap insurance against a similar issue in the future.