Do You Wax ? Or Do You ICE ?

[psychos2]

Tried the new turtle wax ice. I am impressed. You can use it on all exterior paint,plastics, trim, etc. Yes you can do the cladding and paint in one shot. It says not to use on glass. It is a synthetic formula liquid wax,that leaves no white residue. It took a few applications on the cladding to get it looking good and even. There has been nothing on the cladding all winter. So it was pretty dry. It comes with the applicator and the microfiber towel you need to remove it with. It can also be applied in the sun. It goes on easy and wipes off just as easy. I just applied another coat and took about 15 minutes. Try it I think you will like it. Shawn

http://www.turtlewax.com/ice/index.html

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/front_page.jpg
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/product_info_front.gif

[VehiX]

Seems pretty cool. Can you fill us in on it's long term durability in a few days/weeks and let us know how it holds up?

thanks :)

[psychos2]

I first used it 4 days ago. It has rained some since then and i washed it today. The cladding showed no signs of change. With all the other products i have used whenever it would rain i had to re apply. When i washed it the water beaded off just like on the paint. So far I think it is the best wax I have ever used. Looks better than the Zaino Bros wax. shawn

[etlsport]

sounds great.. did you do anything to the cladding before waxing? (mothers, meguires tire gel etc)

[psychos2]

sounds great.. did you do anything to the cladding before waxing? (mothers, meguires tire gel etc)

I used mothers back to black. It had been 4 or 5 months since i last applied it. shawn

[geshaw30]

I saw that stuff the other day and might try the detailer. As far as wax goes I'm still with a lot of folks here and swear by Collinite Insulator (although it's a little pricey I'll admit).

http://www.cgedwards.com/Marinestore/collinite.html
________
Brunette German (http://www.****tube.com/categories/424/german/videos/1)

[psychos2]

I saw that stuff the other day and might try the detailer. As far as wax goes I'm still with a lot of folks here and swear by Collinite Insulator (although it's a little pricey I'll admit).

http://www.cgedwards.com/Marinestore/collinite.html

Yes it is good stuff, but can you use it on the cladding? shawn

[Ldub]

Just got done waxing with "ICE"...
It's a little strange at first, as a little goes a loooong way. Also, it's hard to tell when it's dry enough to buff as there is very little visible change in appearance...no powdery "haze".
Has a very good gloss after buffing, goes on & comes off E-Z. Also has a nice slick feel when done (da).
Of course it started raining 3.420 min. after I was done :rolleyes:, but at least I got to see how nicely it beads water :) .
All in all, pretty good stuff...we'll see how it lasts.
Oh yeah, nice "synthetic strawberry" smell.
Thanks for the reco. Shawn.

Ldub

[Moncha]

3.240 minutes???? Is that lap or elapsed time? :D

[Hotsauce]

Wash--->claybar--->Zaino

Done.

John C.

[psychos2]

Wash--->claybar--->Zaino

Done.

John C.

I don't think some of you are understanding this. You can use this wax on the cladding. No more trying not to wax the cladding and then trying not to get whatever you use on the cladding on the wax. It's almost too easy. shawn

[Ldub]

3.240 minutes???? Is that lap or elapsed time? :D

:disturbed :disturbed :disturbed


I don't know, but it was really soon.

[Moncha]

LOL!!!!!

[dynofan]

I really liked the results on the cladding......, but did have to redo some areas. Does the detailer ice create the same effect?

[psychos2]

I really liked the results on the cladding......, but did have to redo some areas. Does the detailer ice create the same effect?

I do not know i haven't tried it yet. shawn

[mbeach]

I generally stay away from silicone based 'waxes' (just in case I ever need a repaint). I wouldn't mind using something like this on the cladding though.

[etlsport]

ive never had a car that really warranted being waxed so im not very wax savvy... whats wrong with silicon based waxes that would affect repainting?

[psychos2]

ive never had a car that really warranted being waxed so im not very wax savvy... whats wrong with silicon based waxes that would affect repainting?


This is why. "Products that contain a high amount of silicone can create havoc with a paint and body shop. If an automobile goes in for paint and body work, and the paint has been treated with a high ratio of silicone sealant, it will be very difficult for the new paint to adhere to the surface. Silicone acts as a lubricant to repel moisture and is very difficult to wash off. This is why most good quality body shops always sand the paint prior to repainting the vehicle for better paint adhesion." So all they have to do is sand prior to painting and all is well. Which they should be doing anyway. shawn

[Leah]

I don't think some of you are understanding this. You can use this wax on the cladding. No more trying not to wax the cladding and then trying not to get whatever you use on the cladding on the wax. It's almost too easy. shawn

Well thank goodness! I am so tired of having reapply moisturizer to the cladding after every drizzle or dust cloud. Thanks, Shawn, for being the guinea pig, here. Did you get the Ice at Walmart? I'm getting this wax the first chance I get. I'm so excited, I can hardly wait.
Leah

[psychos2]

Well thank goodness! I am so tired of having reapply moisturizer to the cladding after every drizzle or dust cloud. Thanks, Shawn, for being the guinea pig, here. Did you get the Ice at Walmart? I'm getting this wax the first chance I get. I'm so excited, I can hardly wait.
Leah

Leah, I purchased it at Advance Auto Parts.But i do believe they have it at Walmart.I still need to get the spray detailer.For in between waxes. shawn

[thedutchguy]

You really need this pollishing tool too!
www.amt.nl/movies/AEGmaaktgoedspul.wmv

[Leah]

You really need this pollishing tool too!
www.amt.nl/movies/AEGmaaktgoedspul.wmv

LOL If that's the case, I don't think I want to know what's under/in my paint. LOL I'll stick with my buffer, thank you. ;)

[Ruflyf]

thats too funny

[VX crazy]

I tried the Ice this last weekend, and was not impressed, had to do the cladding with 2 coats, will see how it holds up in all this rain we are supposed to get, but hard to take off and looks smudged.

[psychos2]

I tried the Ice this last weekend, and was not impressed, had to do the cladding with 2 coats, will see how it holds up in all this rain we are supposed to get, but hard to take off and looks smudged.

Did you use the microfiber towel ? shawn

[jgalt]

I had to wax the VX and, being the lazy SOB I am, I tried the ICE.

In summary ... not bad ... and being able to do the cladding is a huge bonus in my book as she looked very sleek and sexy when done plus the effort was minimal. However, I did not use any product on the cladding prior to applying ICE and, if you are seeking the elusive "dark black" cladding, you won't find it from just using this product (my experience - YMMV).

After one week, I'm somewhat disappointed, but I do believe that this has more to do with the road salt used here in Utah than anything else. The day after applying it rained cats and dogs. The wax beaded nicely, but residue was left on the body panels and cladding when it dried. Again, I think this is largely due to the amount of road salt used here in Utah - that and we're just coming off a big spring storm ...

Bottom line - very easy to apply, great look when done and can be applied to the cladding. I'm definitely going to finish the bottle and sound back with more long term results.

Best,

Jim

[VX crazy]

Did you use the microfiber towel ? shawn


Yes, but after going over and over the paint I used a regular towel. It may be because of the color of silver that is easier to see the hazing. The hood insert had swirl marks that I could not get out, but after the second coat it looked tons better with no swirls. I am not saying its bad, I like the convienience of one product for everything, but for the paint I think I like the Meguires NXT wax (I think thats what its called) I only wash/wax it a few times a year anyway.....:)

[Leah]

Is there any product that causes water to sheet off instead of bead and pool? I hate the water spots caused by the hard water in this area. They're almost impossible to get rid of.

[Ldub]

Leah,
Try the Mr. Clean car wash system, even if you don't use the "wash" part of it, it has a filter built in that removes a lot of the minerals that cause spotting when rinseing.
Also, getting after it with an absorber or chamois works wonders.

Ldub

[psychos2]

VX crazy, I made the mistake of not using the microfiber towel. The wax does not come off very well with a regular towel ,nearly impossible. I did not realize there was a microfiber towel in the package and was having a hell of a time getting the wax off. I picked up a larger microfiber towel to use. Works better than the tiny one they give you .

Leah, I use a the Absorber to dry after washing .It only takes a few extra minutes .Well worth it to keep away the spots. You can get one at walmart for around $10 .Should be in the automotive dept near the waxes. shawn

[transio]

I saw this product in the store the other day, but didn't get it. looks promising! :)

[Chopper]

If a shop sands that silicone treated car before a good strong detergent wash followed by a solvent wipedown, they're only grinding the stuff in... not off. Even a fresh coat of armorall on interior will be vaporizing the whole time, contaminating the exterior. The problem isn't one of adhesion as much as the fisheyes it causes. Then again, people didn't really rub silicone all over the outside of their cars...till now. It is the nemisis of a good shoot-we hate it. Leah, only a layer of good wax (Meguires High Tech Yellow #10) and quick removal of the water will prevent it, and once burned in, only a buffer and compound will remove it. Not something you can do many times and not usually a do it yourself job.

[psychos2]

Leah, only a layer of good wax (Meguires High Tech Yellow #10) and quick removal of the water will prevent it,

Chopper, I disagree. I do not use this wax and as long as I remove the water before it dries there are no spots. And before you ask, we do have hard water also. shawn

[Heraclid]

Leah, that Mr. Clean gadget worked so-so for me. Here I have hard water too and it used to leave a fine white powder on the VX when dry. Nothing a car duster and about 1 minute wouldn't fix though. I went back to drying with one of the synthetic absorber cloths though. Takes longer, but they really get you on those soap and cartridge refills.

[Moncha]

I've used the Mr. Clean deal as well. It works but I would only recommend it for the "in between" washes. Nothing beats a good 'ol scrubbin of the little guys armpits and a old fashoned towel dry for the good cleanings..

[Ldub]

After a year of use, I've found that the Mr. Clean system is best used as a rinse only. The soap is too expen$ive & kind of a hassle to use.
I'm thinking of getting an in-line filter to get out the minerals etc. & just going back to a good old sprayer type hose end. The Mr. C rinse works well, but is a little lacking in power imo.

[mbeach]

If a shop sands that silicone treated car before a good strong detergent wash followed by a solvent wipedown, they're only grinding the stuff in... not off. Even a fresh coat of armorall on interior will be vaporizing the whole time, contaminating the exterior. The problem isn't one of adhesion as much as the fisheyes it causes. Then again, people didn't really rub silicone all over the outside of their cars...till now.

This is what I was always told -I've seen the 'fisheye' effect before.
I think that I'll stick with the good ol hard wax and elbow grease on the paint.
I'll use it on the cladding for sure though, I've been rubbing silicone products on it since day 1.

[Leah]

Leah,
Try the Mr. Clean car wash system, even if you don't use the "wash" part of it, it has a filter built in that removes a lot of the minerals that cause spotting when rinseing.
Also, getting after it with an absorber or chamois works wonders.

Ldub

The day I posted that question, I couldn't think of the name Mr. Clean. I do own that system, but do you know, it never occurred to me to just use the rinse part? Isn't that silly? I didn't care for the wash part but the rinse filter always did a great job. I'll give that a try the next time I wash my car. Thanks! (I use a towel to dry with after washing but I'm never quick enough to get all the spots.)

[Leah]

Leah, I use a the Absorber to dry after washing .It only takes a few extra minutes .Well worth it to keep away the spots. You can get one at walmart for around $10 .Should be in the automotive dept near the waxes. shawn

Thanks, Shawn

[E-ZooZoo One]

After my no-so-thrilling experiences with Mothering the Cladding (http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=8447), I went out and bought some ICE, and intend to give it a shot later today – although, after reading this thread (particularly the part about silicone-based waxes hindering future repainting efforts), I have decided to use the ICE on the cladding ONLY…

The thing is, after using Mother's Back-to-Black, it seems like my cladding has become a dirt magnet, complete with a layer of grime that is so tenaciously adhered that even a thorough blasting from a high pressure car wash wand will barely budge the stuff - not even at VERY close range - especially not out of the ‘pores’.


With that in mind, does anyone have any advice or helpful tips that they’d like to share, and hopefully prevent the onset of Turrets Syndrome at Villa de Smiley later this afternoon?

TIA! :coolgray:

[Knigh7s]

Just finished ICEing about 30 min ago, I have to say, I'm pretty impressed. A good wash and alot of elbow grease on the cladding, thanks to "Mothers". Living in Las Vegas, Mothers is like a dust magnet. Like above said, even the high pressure wash wont budge the grime.

Well to continue, I put one coat on the paint and had to do a second coat on the cladding and hood insert to get rid of the swirls and a couple streaks. I have to say i like it better than the Meguires I've been using. Also my 15 min drive home from the car wash, i already had a layer of dust on the VX. My Cali Duster took everything right off with one round. Unlike before.

[E-ZooZoo One]

I’m sold !!!

This stuff was waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay easier to apply than Mother’s Back-to-Black!
(It was like cheating by comparison! :smilewink )


While I was at it today, I discovered a little trick that works wonders on the cladding…
Ignore the Instructions!

Instead, apply a decent coat of ICE (not so much that it runs, but still, a pretty heavy glaze), and then after you get it on there, use a number of long, repeated, sweeping strokes to even-out the coverage… Then as soon as it begins to show the very first signs of drying, start wiping with the micro-fiber cloth – DO NOT wait for it to dry to a dull haze.

Before I discovered this technique, I was getting a lot streaked areas where the grey showed through pretty badly… Afterward, the coverage was nice-and-even, and stayed quite dark - much like the Back-to-Black, only 10 BuhZillion times easier to apply (and nowhere near as sticky).


Many thanks to Psychos2 for starting this thread! :thumbup:

[innercore]

After hand washing my new used VX and hand drying it too, I applied the Turtle Wax Express Shine to the cladding. Then, I tried the Ice. Very easy to put on and very easy to buff. Seems to look very good so far. It rains often in Houston so I am interested to see how it lasts.

[Ebony1433]

OK...so I HAD to try the new polish on the block....first a hand wash, then I applied a coat of Meguiar's Swirl mark remover....buffed that off, then started the Ice.
Went on VERY easy... I did the metal, cladding, even on the rims...the wax came off the metal and the rims like it was magic.....however, the cladding was a different story.
I applied it, buffed it off, saw nothing but streaks, like it was put on with a paintbrush. Started to get a little panicky, applied again, buffed off, same result.
I ran to the PC, looked up this thread, saw E-Zoo Zoo One's comment about using long sweeping strokes just when the Ice first starts to try, tried that.
MUCH BETTER! Whew...Thanks E Z-Z 1.....
All in all, it was about a 4 hour job...but the results are fantastic. The Ice has covered every little scratch in the paint....my Ebony has a shine that is, well, obsidan....wow. I've used Zymol, Maguiar's Tech Wax, Turtle Wax Black....but nothing like this.
I deliberately did this today because it's supposed to rain tomorrow. I'm very interested to see how the Ice handles a St. Louis rainstorm....wish me luck.

[Y33TREKker]

Bought the ICE today, but haven't had a chance to apply any yet. A bit spendy, but maybe that was because the kit included the sponge applicator and the micro-fiber cloth.

Ebony 1433, I'll also be interested to know how the ICE stands up to these midwestern rains.

[psychos2]

I picked up the spray detailer the other day, but have not had a chance to try it. I will let you know how it works when I get around to trying it. shawn

[E-ZooZoo One]

Review - One Week Later:

Pollen Season is upon us here in WV with a vengeance – along with plenty of spring rains…

Almost every morning this week I have walked out of the house to find the VX looking a whole lot more Neon Lime Green than Astral Silver – sometimes with the pollen collected into thousands of dried raindrop circles, complete with countless other tree-related debris…

I have combated Mother Nature’s onslaught with the following:
--ONE garden hose spray-off
--ONE wet wipe-down
--TWO trips to a car wash (of the high-pressure wand variety)


I am happy to report that the cladding is still every bit as black and lustrous as it was a week ago… Water still beads-up and rolls right off – and there are only the faintest hints of streaking; and only where large volumes of water collect and run off of the body in a stream-like fashion. --- I suspect that a touch-up application (or use of the ICE Detailer spray) would take care of this – although I have not yet done so.

Even with the mild streaking, it still looks a whole lot better than it did after one week with the Back-to-Black (and that was with no pollen to contend with - no torrential downpours – and no multiple trips to the car wash).


So far, I’m still very pleased with this product. :thumbup:

[Leah]

This is all so encouraging. I bought the ICE but after reading instructions decided to wait until I can get the swirl remover and use that. My VX is so swirly it almost looks like carbon fiber. Grr. Thanks to everyone who has reported on the use of ICE and their results.

[Ebony1433]

Update...we've had a very rainy couple of weeks in the Midwest. 2 days after I first applied the Ice, we had a fairly torrential rainstorm...the next morning, I walked out to the VX, and saw that the cladding had beaded rainwater on it, the same as the metal.
I drove the 8 miles to work, and inspected the finish when I arrived. All the water had run off, and the cladding was just as dark and shiny as when I first applied it. However, there were slight streaks at the cladding fasteners.
Since then, it rained (constantly, not just a shower) about the next 7-8 days in a row, and I did a road trip to Chicago and back....just now the truck is looking like it needs a wash in the last few days, more from the pollen stuck to it...
So far, I'm very impressed. Ice is better than anything I've used so far, and I pretty much used a majority of products that been recommended on this board.

[E-ZooZoo One]

Review – Roughly 3 Weeks Later:

The old familiar ‘matte gray’ is starting to show through again - but in all fairness…

(A) Weekend-before-last, Kathy and I drove across the state of Virginia through one of the most intense downpours that either of us had ever seen in our lives… It was like driving through an automated carwash, for almost 3 hours straight, at 50mph (I had to slow way down in order to see where I was going – even with RainX + the windshield wipers on high). --- Afterward, I noticed that we had lost a bit of the shine.

(B) Some road construction along our route to work, combined with a number of intermittent showers, have conspired to deposit quite a bit of dirt and rock dust… which, in the past week, has apparently leached the last remaining polymers off of the cladding.


Still, the ICE lasted longer than Mother’s Back-to-Black – and it did so amid considerably worse weather conditions…

With it being so much easier to apply, I doubt I’ll mind ICE-ing it every 2 weeks-or-so…
Plus, with it taking so little of the stuff, I probably have another 10 or 15 applications left in the bottle!


On a scale of 1 to 5…
All-in-all, I suppose I’ll give the ICE 3.5 Stars
And for comparison, the Back-to-Black gets a 2

[TEN36VX]

After reading this thread I to tried the ICE...
It did not blacken up the cladding as much as I would like, even after two applications. But to be fair, she's been an outside car since I bought her in 2001 (and neglected a bit) so the cladding is pretty bleached. I to figured EZ-Z's method out for myself and it works better. The ICE is less staticly charged than other products I have tried.

After Two Weeks:
The ICE has held its color better than anything else I have tied. We had a good thunder storm the other day and I noticed some light streaking on the nose where water runs off the sharp corners of the hood. Other than that no problem and the water does bead off it excellently.

[Tobert]

I just put this stuff on my Ebony today, and man is that a nice product. It went on easier than any hand wax I've used before and after a few applications on the cladding, it started to darken up nicely. It went on a lot like Armor-All will on a neglected dash. The first 2-4 applications soak right in before you get that nice consistent shine. I 'll probably apply to the cladding again in a week or two to get the color more consistent.

[Velvis]

Will it repel the dreaded lovebugs? For those unfamiliar with this over-sexed pest, think thick swarms of small black flying insects attached at the 'nads thereby doubling the stain potential. In certain areas South of I-10 it's necessary to turn up one's stereo to overcome the splat noise during high love bug season. We have 'em pretty bad here in South Shreveport (considered far North by Lafayette standards), but nothing to compare to my old daily commute from Donaldsonville to Baton Rouge. I want force fields -- shields UP!!
Velvis

[Beavertractors]

:) I have been using Ice on all my cars,Best wax,real easy to apply.It does not darken the cladding as much as I would like,but keeps it from fading more.Tony B

[Beavertractors]

:o I almost forgot.I used the Ice on my windows,in and out.It seems to help my driversside window slide up easier,Not falling off the track as much...Tony B

[Bisquait]

So ...

Reading through various cladding threads, I was about to try the "Forever Black" tire gel to get my cladding back to a nice black glossy look. Then re-reading this, I'm wondering if I should try this ICE stuff. Or maybe both? Do an initial application of the Forever Black, give it a few days/week, then give a good ICE coating to all?

Anyone out there have experience with both? And what say you?

[VXR]

I’m thinking the same thing:

Back to Black or Forever Black then ICE?