Need Isuzu Hub Nut Tool

[kpaske]

Does anyone know where I might locate the hub nut tool needed when replacing the front wheel bearings? I've tried the method used by some, which is to tap them open with a screwdriver and hammer, but all that did was ding up the hub nut. An old post from planet isuzu suggested buying the part from NAPA (it's discontinued) or buying a similar tool for another vehicle and grinding it down to fit (i don't have access to that type of equipment). Any ideas where I can find this tool ??

[mbeach]

I can't find mine right now, but I used the Planet Isuzu suggestion of grinding down the Ford (I think) hub nut removal tool.

I used a Dremel and a file -you don't have to remove much material, and they're not torqued on too tight.

[johnnyapollo]

Planet Isuzu write-up:
http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm/56

He lists both the Isuzu and NAPA part numbers - or do as he did and get the Ford unit, grind off 2 nubs and grind down (from the outside) the two others.

-- John

[kpaske]

Thanks for the suggestions johnny, but as I mentioned in my original post, those part numbers are discontinued, and I really don't have any grinding tools so I'm looking for an alternate solution!

I'd hate to have to bring it in to the dealership for service after all these years...

[Ruflyf]

have you tried Autozone or Advanced Auto's selection of free tool rentals?

[Tone]

You don't need the socket and the one listed in that article is incorrect. The more difficult task is removing the 3 phillips screws that keep that nut from spinning. Take the correct size phillip screwdriver and then strike with a hammer will make them come out easily without stripping the heads which is common.


The round 'nut' has a number of holes in it for tightening/alignment and if you put the edge of a screwdriver in one and tap lightly with a hammer it will loosen easily. .

[johnnyapollo]

Like Tone says, the hard part is in getting those screws off without stripping the heads. I like to have some of the screws as back-ups, along with an easy out just-in-case. The Isuzu and Napa part numbers in that article are no longer valid. You can buy the Ford hub tool at Advance Auto Parts for $9.98 and grind off two nubs, plus slightly modifying the two remaining numbs as indicated. The correct part number is T72048 Ampro 4WD 4-Prong Locknut Socket:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=APO&mfrpartnumber=T72048

The screw sizes are: "Machine screw flat - Phillips 4mm x 8mm" and can be found at Home Depot

-- John

[mbeach]

Also, follow the article's suggestion to go out and buy some replacement phillips screws before you take anything apart. Even if you do everything correct, you will most likely trash the heads on these guys, making them useless to reinstall. That lockring can also be tapped left and right as Tone mentioned -this makes it a *little* easier to remove those 3 screws. Next time I do this, the replacements will have slotted heads -this should make it that much easier to tap out the in the future.

As for the hubnut, seriously, go buy the Ford part and file down the "nubs". A hacksaw and a file will do it easily.

[kpaske]

Thanks for the advice about the hub flange screws, but I already got past that point - I did strip a few of them, and even had to drill a couple out, but fortunately I had already read the planet isuzu article and bought some spares.

However, from your description, Tone, it sounds like maybe I was trying to loosen the wrong part. I thought what needed to be removed was that large inner ring that sticks out about a 1/4 inch and has two large slots. It's the threaded piece that the hub nut flange actually slides onto. Is this not the right part? I tapped on that thing with a screwdriver and hammer a bunch of times and it didn't budge. If this part should be easy to remove, I must be looking at the wrong thing.

[Tone]

It's the round nut with all the holes in it that you took the screws out of. Lefty loosey......

[kpaske]

:confused: OK, no wonder it wouldn't come off. I'll try again tonight or tomorrow and let you guys know how it goes! Thanks...

[climbcovey]

You don't need the tool to do this. do a search on this sight for rotor replacement, I detailed the whole procedure in this, no pics though sorry. It included how to take out the bearings. good luck!

[rowhard]

Screw removal, learn years ago working on Jap bikes, always disassemble anything with a screw using a Honda tool as it was called, i.e.; a impact driver then replace with internal wrenching screws.

[Ldub]

It's the round nut with all the holes in it that you took the screws out of. Lefty loosey......

RIGHTY TIGHTY... has anyone ever posted how you know when it's tight enough upon re-assembly??? I've read a number of these threads & don't recall ever seeing a definitive answer.
I'm really curious to see if i'm doing it right. :confused:

[Ldub]

Screw removal, learn years ago working on Jap bikes, always disassemble anything with a screw using a Honda tool as it was called, i.e.; a impact driver then replace with internal wrenching screws.

Good advice, I picked up an impact driver (shouldn't that be "impact looser"?)a couple months ago @ Harbor Freight in anticipation of doing my front bearings this month. Also, in remembrance of MANY Jap. bike phillips screws destroyed.

[Jolly Roger VX'er]

When I did mine I used an impact driver and removed all screws with no damage...but, since I had bought new ones from Home Depot, I replaced all of them anyways and kept the originals. I bought the impact driver from Advance Auto. I also bought the hub removal tool you inquired about from here:

http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=6804

[kpaske]

Well, I'm getting ready to attempt my bearing install again, without the tool, but hopefully this time I'll get it right. I've since gone back and studied the manual a little more thoroughly, and I think I understand my error now. Anyways, thanks Jolly Roger for the link to that tool. If all else fails at least I won't have to bring it back to the dealership! (It's been at the dealership once in 7 years, which was just last week to diagnose the ABS light)

[mbeach]

RIGHTY TIGHTY... has anyone ever posted how you know when it's tight enough upon re-assembly??? I've read a number of these threads & don't recall ever seeing a definitive answer.
I'm really curious to see if i'm doing it right. :confused:

Are you referring to the procedure for setting bearing pre-load?

It involves a specialized tool (or an accurate fish scale) -it's in the maintenance CD.

[Tobert]

I need to do that. Last time I had mine apart, I just felt it by hand. I know that's no good but I'm due for rotors soon anyways. I didn't want to invest the extra $$ into the VX until I had the major drivetrain bugs worked out.

The Autozone by me has that Ford socket hanging in the tool section. I'm also considering taking a cheapie socket and welding some bolts to the side of it to be cheap.

[kpaske]

Wow, those hub nuts actually came off fairly easily just using a screwdriver and hammer to spin them around. Now she's riding on a brand new set of bearings and freshly turned rotors. Thanks to all for your help and suggestions.

[climbcovey]

glad we could help!!