Window woes...

[ojmagg]

I hate these windows...I hate these windows...I hate these windows...

My passenger side window jammed, breaking off the plactic tabs that attach the mechanics to the bottom of the window. Not only did the tabs come off the window, but they have broke in 1/2 as well. Does anyone have a fix for this? I tried using epoxy, but the tabs keep breaking. Looks like the adhesive that was on the tabs before was some sort of gasket material...Anyone know what type of adhesive would work best for this application?

[creeg]

Im in exactly the same position as you. My tabs were destroyed.

There is some expoxy that is SUPPOSED to work, Here is what is needed

3M Automix, Channel Bonding & Sidelite Adhesive. Part# 08641
3M Automix Applicator Gun. Part# 08191
3M Mixing Nozzles Clear. Part# 08197

I havent tried it as my tabs, like yours, are in pieces. I think you would need new tabs in order to fix it; cracked or broken tabs will probably not work so well.

So what I have done is used JB 4-minute Weld epoxy as a short-term fix. My window is in the locked and upright position, and will not be opened until I get a new window. The JB Weld, through my experimentation, is not a permanent fix. This is the second time I have done this.

I would be happy to just buy new tabs and try my luck with the 3M adhesive, but no one just sells the tabs, and I cant think of any way to fabricate somethign similar.

Ive shopped around, and I have found used windows for $220.00 (that includes shipping and tax), or new ones at my local dealership (with a 7-day shipping time) for $245.00.

Im saving up for the new window, and hopefully along with the other fixes posted on this site, I wont have any problems with the new window.

Yeah, it really really sucks.

[ojmagg]

I thought about cutting the channel off the plastic mounts, then attaching a metal channel with glue and small screws...but that would prob break too...

I'm looking at the part manual right now...list on the Isuzu windows is 156.17...600 on the NAGS...

[ojmagg]

I just spoke to Merlin at St Charles Isuzu 1-800-727-8066...new window $179 to my door.

[creeg]

$179!?!

Im in California, they told me $245.00. How come you get such a better price?

Sheesh!

[creeg]

I just called the dealer back, and they quoted me $226 instead of $245 this time. WTF.

I guess if I keep calling back, it will go down.

[kpaske]

St. Charles Isuzu has always been able to get my OEM parts, they ship for free, and the price is 10 or 15% below list price. Other dealerships vary in the price they'll quote you.

Also, I'd be surprised if they couldn't sell you just the tabs, or maybe a kit of some sort. Make sure you talk to Merlin if you don't like the answer you get elsewhere (even from another parts counter tech at St. Charles). In my experience he has always come through even when others told me a part was unavailable.

[HotFlyer]

I had the same problem. Contacted M & M Auto Parts (Used) in Bridgeport, PA(1-800-276-0404). They found a used window in excelent condition for my VX, $125.00. Nice people, easy to talk to.

Howard (0761)

[Tobert]

I was planning on just making some out of metal, but my primary problem is that the window channel has been ripped or cut off, so there's nothing to guide the window. Putting metal tabs on would just make the window shatter.

There isn't really much to those plastic pieces ... they could probably be made out of a good piece 1/2" PVC stock with a dremel if you take your time. I was thinking of trying that, too. They don't need to be exact - just close enough to fill in the rest with adhesive. Really they don't need to be as fancy as they are. You really just need a slot in a piece of 1/2" plastic with a hole drilled for the bolt. In fact, now that I think about it, the replacements could be much bigger so they can handle more stress ... hmm.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7539628733

I might give that a try. Heck, I could probably cut the slot nicely with the tablesaw (very carefully, of course).

[Ldub]

Tobert,

Just had an idea while reading your post.
For safetys sake, one of those thick (approx 1/2") white plastic kitchen cutting boards might be the ticket.
That way you can rip your groove in the edge with precious pinkies well away from the blade, then cut to desired width (height?)
I'm not sure about how well epoxy or other adhesives will stick to that stuff though.
I dunno, just thinkin' out loud.

[Tobert]

For safetys sake, one of those thick (approx 1/2") white plastic kitchen cutting boards might be the ticket.

Definitely a good idea. I looked at those and it turns out most of them (on ebay) are actually made out of the same stuff I was looking at. You're absolutely right about the safety precautions. Table saws are one of the most unforgiving tools you can own when it comes to tearing off fingers. I'm scared to death of mine and that's why I can still count to ten.

I just ordered some of that plastic. I'll report back here after application and will sell a couple sets cheaply if it works.

[creeg]

So the tabs for my passenger window broke off, and instead of throwing out a perfectly good piece of glass, I read the threads and I tried the quick-and-dirty fix, using JB Weld to fix my windows.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/DSCN2410.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN2410.JPG)

That didnt work that well. NOT recommended, dont waste your time.

Then, I read in this forum about the fact that 3M has the right kind of glue available, but Isuzu doesnt sell replacement tabs: they only sell new pieces of glass with the tabs pre-glued on. The cheapest I could find new glass is from Merlin: he quoted me $170 (which includes shipping to California). The local dealership wanted about $250. Not bad, but Im cheap. Then, Merlin suggested that I go to the General Motors parts department and see if they have a similar tab.

After some talking and research with the GM Parts guys, they found a part that looked right: GM Part number 22689012

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/DSCN2413.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN2413.JPG)

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/DSCN2411.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN2411.JPG)

These cost $9.64 each, I bought 2. Total cost of tabs: $20.88 (make sure you call ahead to see if they have them, I bought the last 2 that they had at my supplier). The screws that held the old tabs also fit this piece, so it seemed promising.

Then, I went on the 3m site and found a local supplier to get the 3M parts.
3M Automix, Channel Bonding & Sidelite Adhesive. Part# 08641: $13.75
3M Automix Applicator Gun. Part# 08191: $63.21
3M Mixing Nozzles Clear. Part# 08197: $18.54

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/DSCN2414.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN2414.JPG)

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/DSCN2415.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN2415.JPG)

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/DSCN2416.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN2416.JPG)

They misquoted me when I called, so I got the gun for $40 instead of $60, so my total cost of 3M parts was $87.36

On to installation.

-I removed the old tab
-Scraped off all the old glue/JB Weld
-Put the glass back in the door and marked the location of the tabs with a pen on the glass
-Loaded the gun
-filled the tab with glue, and stuck it on the glass.
-waited about 4 minutes, and it was dry (fast curing time)
-put the glass back in, and bolted it in place.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/DSCN2418.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN2418.JPG)

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/DSCN2417.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN2417.JPG)

It works fine now, and has been for the past 2 days. We'll see how long it lasts, Ill post here if it breaks off again.

Total cost for repair: $108.24

some things I noticed:

-The new tab causes the window to not completely recess into the window.
About 1/4 inch of the window sticks out. Not a big deal to me, but worth noting.

-The 3m nozzles are one-time use, but the tube of adhesive cliams that if you close it back up, you can use it again later. (you get about 10 nozzles in a pack)

Reflections:

I would buy the tabs, take them to your local glass shop, see if they can just glue them on for me, and re-install it myself. $60 for the mixing gun and $18 for the nozzles is pretty steep if you ask me.

Well, there it is. hope that helps. Good luck!

[Kenny]

Just a thought...

When putting on new tabs, would it be a good time to maybe place the foreward tab a bit lower to give the window that much needed tilt?? Is there enough meat on this clip to allow this? or a homemade clip...

I have not yet had to resort to the actual "window-fix" yet, I do have to keep the front rubber slide lubed with some silicone spray every now and then - otherwise I would have to pull the window back by hand as it goes up.

[Bulldoggie]

Great find.:) I find it hard to buy a new window just to get a plastic tab.

My tab was broken and I glued it back together with an epoxy that works with urethane. it is still holding after 100's of window openings.
If I had known about these GM tabs, I would have replaced both and repositioned them to line up with the lift arm holes

[kpaske]

The new tab causes the window to not completely recess into the window. About 1/4 inch of the window sticks out. Not a big deal to me, but worth noting.Huh? Can you take a picture or explain what you mean a little better?

Edit: I think what you mean is that when the window is rolled down completely, it still sticks up about 1/4" out of the door. Right?


The 3m nozzles are one-time use, but the tube of adhesive cliams that if you close it back up, you can use it again later. (you get about 10 nozzles in a pack)Surely there has to be another suitable adhesive or method of application. $78 is a bit stiff for glue!


When putting on new tabs, would it be a good time to maybe place the foreward tab a bit lower to give the window that much needed tilt?? Is there enough meat on this clip to allow this? or a homemade clip...This is what I'm wondering. From what other owners have said in other threads, it seems the source of the problem is where these tabs are positioned on the glass. A bit of a correction when installing the replacement tabs might solve the binding issue once and for all.

[creeg]

Huh? Can you take a picture or explain what you mean a little better?

Edit: I think what you mean is that when the window is rolled down completely, it still sticks up about 1/4" out of the door. Right?

---Correct



This is what I'm wondering. From what other owners have said in other threads, it seems the source of the problem is where these tabs are positioned on the glass. A bit of a correction when installing the replacement tabs might solve the binding issue once and for all.


When putting on new tabs, would it be a good time to maybe place the foreward tab a bit lower to give the window that much needed tilt?? Is there enough meat on this clip to allow this? or a homemade clip...

Yes, this GM clip is much more sturdy than the Isuzu tabs, and larger- but you cant really tell from the photo as I completely covered the original tab with JB Weld for my first attempt at a fix. Even so, I think the GM Clip will allow for some movement down during gluing- the only question then is whether that will jeopardize the strength of the tab, as the glass wouldnt be full seated in the tab. I dont know the answer to that one.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/DSCN2411.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN2411.JPG)

[kpaske]

Yes, this GM clip is much more sturdy than the Isuzu tabs, and larger- but you cant really tell from the photo as I completely covered the original tab with JB Weld for my first attempt at a fix. Even so, I think the GM Clip will allow for some movement down during gluing- the only question then is whether that will jeopardize the strength of the tab, as the glass wouldnt be full seated in the tab. I dont know the answer to that one.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/DSCN2411.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN2411.JPG)
From the picture it appears to me that the window should sit at almost exactly the same height using either tab. Is it possible that there is some play somewhere else, perhaps where the tabs attach to the rails?

[creeg]

From the picture it appears to me that the window should sit at almost exactly the same height using either tab. Is it possible that there is some play somewhere else, perhaps where the tabs attach to the rails?

That could very well be the case. They should sit at the same height.

I could also have neglected to push the tab on all the way when gluing the new one, and there could be a bit of glue on the bottom side of the glass that is casuing a spacing issue.

One thing is that if you look at the side-by-side comparison, the holes line up: but the bottom of the "seat" for the glass (ie, the plastic "U" shape that holds the glass, not the part that screws into the control arm) seems to be at a different height. But a) I dont know if that matters and b) I would think it would cause the window to sit a little lower, not higher, with the new tab.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/DSCN2411.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN2411.JPG)

Not really sure...
:confused:

[etlsport]

neither one of my windows goes all the way down.. they both stop with about 1/8-1/4 inch sticking out of the door?? i figured it was normal

[Kenny]

neither one of my windows goes all the way down.. they both stop with about 1/8-1/4 inch sticking out of the door?? i figured it was normal

That's not normal, especially if it's uncomfortable to put your arm there to rest when the windows open.

You might be able to adjust the wire pulley system at the winch to correct this. But I'm just guessing here... It's not easy to get to.

Also, if you were to lower it, would it still close at the top fully? hmmm.

Good luck,

[Joe_Black]

From what other owners have said in other threads, it seems the source of the problem is where these tabs are positioned on the glass. A bit of a correction when installing the replacement tabs might solve the binding issue once and for all.
Unfortunately the cause of the window problem is the interface of the glass carrier with the guide rail. Loose or broken carrier clips just make it worse.

[Bulldoggie]

This is what I'm wondering. From what other owners have said in other threads, it seems the source of the problem is where these tabs are positioned on the glass. A bit of a correction when installing the replacement tabs might solve the binding issue once and for all.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/P1010004.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/P1010004.JPG)
The tabs are too far forward on the glass IF it TILTS down in front when going up.
This picture is the window unbolted from the arm, but pushed back into the rear guide where it belongs.
repositioning the tabs will fix the window tilt ONLY.
If your window tabs were broken or your window wants to "pinch" or push itself out of the rubber, you will still need to shim the arm assembly to be UNDER the glass.

[kpaske]

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/P1010004.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/P1010004.JPG)
The tabs are too far forward on the glass IF it TILTS down in front when going up.
This picture is the window unbolted from the arm, but pushed back into the rear guide where it belongs.
repositioning the tabs will fix the window tilt ONLY.
If your window tabs were broken or your window wants to "pinch" or push itself out of the rubber, you will still need to shim the arm assembly to be UNDER the glass.

I believe this is the problem that most are having with their windows, right? The front edge drops or hangs, causing the glass to rotate slightly counterclockwise as it's going up?

Do you think it would it be easier to grind out the hole on the rail, as you have, or pull the whole window and replace the tabs? Have you had any problems since you made the modification or do your windows work perfectly now?

Is there any play in how the rail itself mounts? Could the entire rail be slid forward rather than pulling the window back?

[Joe_Black]

The problem is that when the window tilts forward upon raising, whether from drag on the rubber guide or tab alignement, it causes the carrier guide to pop off the rail which allows it to tilt even further. The window fix using the washers to space the rail off the inner door works because it forces the rail to stay in contact with the carrier guide.

The root of the problem is the poor design of the carrier guide and rail, which has less contact area than is typical of similar power window systems. If the VX had been a normal production vehicle it would've been addressed and a retrofit made available, but that's the price we pay for uniqueness. ;)

[Bulldoggie]

YES, My window operates several times a day, very smooth and evenly.
Just like they should.
Less than $15.00 and about 1 hour to make all the adjustments.
I would have used a new window tab, if I could.
I showed JAFO's dad, when I saw him. Anyone who would like to see for themselfs, just drop by.

[JAFO]

YES, My window operates several times a day, very smooth and evenly.
Just like they should.
Less than $15.00 and about 1 hour to make all the adjustments.
I would have used a new window tab, if I could.
I showed JAFO's dad, when I saw him. Anyone who would like to see for themselfs, just drop by.

Yah, he mentioned that he ran into you. I'll have to take a better look at mine when I get some time. I think the passenger side may be hanging a little.

[Tobert]

Well, it has been a HOT weekend here in Western Michigan. I was out running around in the VX yesterday and got too hot, so I chanced rolling down my driver's side window (my A/C is waiting on a backordered line from Merlin). Of course, it fell off of the broken brackets again.

I already had the plastic I mentioned earlier in this thread in my garage, so I broke down and decided to hack out some custom brackets.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7539628733

I'm not terribly proud of these, but they work for now. If I make any more, I'll probably make a template so they're more consistent. The other thing I'd do is drill another groove down the long way in the bracket so there's a place for the adhesive to pool. I just used Automotive GOOP from Autozone. It turns out that it sticks to glass OK, but does not stick to the HD-HMW I bought. The drilled groove would provide a place for it to ppol up so it doesn't need to stick to the plastic.

Tools used to make them:
* standard table saw
* drill
* dremel w/ router plate
* sawzall

Installation:
* install brackets
* install window
* have somebody hold window up out of the way
* fill groove with GOOP
* insert window, fitted tightly into the rear channel
* roll it up a little at a time making sure it's all the way back
* wait 24hrs for glue to dry

While I was at it, I added the washers to the track others have mentioned.

If anybody wants me to give a more complete description of how I made them, just PM me and I'll write something up. It's fairly obvious how I did it though.

Pictures:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/DSCF3564.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3564.JPG)

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/DSCF3562.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3562.JPG)

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/DSCF3563.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3563.JPG)

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/DSCF3561.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3561.JPG)

[creeg]

So the tabs for my passenger window broke off, and instead of throwing out a perfectly good piece of glass, I read the threads and I tried the quick-and-dirty fix, using JB Weld to fix my windows.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/DSCN2410.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN2410.JPG)

That didnt work that well. NOT recommended, dont waste your time.

Then, I read in this forum about the fact that 3M has the right kind of glue available, but Isuzu doesnt sell replacement tabs: they only sell new pieces of glass with the tabs pre-glued on. The cheapest I could find new glass is from Merlin: he quoted me $170 (which includes shipping to California). The local dealership wanted about $250. Not bad, but Im cheap. Then, Merlin suggested that I go to the General Motors parts department and see if they have a similar tab.

After some talking and research with the GM Parts guys, they found a part that looked right: GM Part number 22689012

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/DSCN2413.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN2413.JPG)

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/DSCN2411.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN2411.JPG)

These cost $9.64 each, I bought 2. Total cost of tabs: $20.88 (make sure you call ahead to see if they have them, I bought the last 2 that they had at my supplier). The screws that held the old tabs also fit this piece, so it seemed promising.

Then, I went on the 3m site and found a local supplier to get the 3M parts.
3M Automix, Channel Bonding & Sidelite Adhesive. Part# 08641: $13.75
3M Automix Applicator Gun. Part# 08191: $63.21
3M Mixing Nozzles Clear. Part# 08197: $18.54

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/DSCN2414.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN2414.JPG)

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/DSCN2415.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN2415.JPG)

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/DSCN2416.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN2416.JPG)

They misquoted me when I called, so I got the gun for $40 instead of $60, so my total cost of 3M parts was $87.36

On to installation.

-I removed the old tab
-Scraped off all the old glue/JB Weld
-Put the glass back in the door and marked the location of the tabs with a pen on the glass
-Loaded the gun
-filled the tab with glue, and stuck it on the glass.
-waited about 4 minutes, and it was dry (fast curing time)
-put the glass back in, and bolted it in place.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/DSCN2418.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN2418.JPG)

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/DSCN2417.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN2417.JPG)

It works fine now, and has been for the past 2 days. We'll see how long it lasts, Ill post here if it breaks off again.

Total cost for repair: $108.24

some things I noticed:

-The new tab causes the window to not completely recess into the window.
About 1/4 inch of the window sticks out. Not a big deal to me, but worth noting.

-The 3m nozzles are one-time use, but the tube of adhesive cliams that if you close it back up, you can use it again later. (you get about 10 nozzles in a pack)

Reflections:

I would buy the tabs, take them to your local glass shop, see if they can just glue them on for me, and re-install it myself. $60 for the mixing gun and $18 for the nozzles is pretty steep if you ask me.

Well, there it is. hope that helps. Good luck!

Update: Well, it worked for about 2-3 months like a charm, and then it was back to square one. The tab glue came off the glass. So maybe there is a way to roughen up the glass so that its not as slick? Maybe some sore of etching? That way the glue can stick to the glass a little better.

I ended up getting a new window from Merlin, no problems so far. I still have the glue and gun, so if anyone in the LA area wants to try this out, give me a shout and we can use some of the glue.

:(

[Bulldoggie]

Sometimes, I feel like I'm speaking another language,

MY WINDOWS WORK GREAT, SEVERAL TIMES A DAY!

Yes I lube them, once a year as they start to dry out in the summer.

My windows work great, because the glass is centered and the regulator arm is UNDER the glass, when it is up and when it's down.

In plain talk, our window regulators get out of their designed position. Then they rub too hard in the front, causing tilt. AND / OR they are pulled toward the inside of the glass. Causing the tabs to bend (then break) trying to stay under the glass, while the regulator arm pushes up away from the glass.

And I just used plumbers putty to put my broken into two window tab.
It still works because there is NO STRESS on my window tabs.
Sorry, there is no factory adjustments.

[creeg]

Bulldoggie-

Well I guess Im just speaking French, cause Ive tried to realign the regulator, and I cant seem to get it just right.

Right now it all works because Ive been lubing every couple months, and I bought a new window with new tabs. Im hoping thats enough.

What Id really like is a schematic of the window with what needs to be checked, what to watch out for, etc.

but so far, no one has anything like that. The best that I have seen is pictures that show the outside of the door.

If you or someone could provide that, we could maybe put this never-ending issue to bed and be done with it.

[Bulldoggie]

Sorry if my tone was a little on the harsh side.

Creeg, I was complimenting your find for replacement tabs!

I know that all my pictures and descriptions of them, are spread all over in different threads
I would very much like to put it all together in a manual with step by step instructions and photos.

I would be willing to HELP anyone with any window problem.
If you are too far away, you could try to search all thread posts by "user" (Mine for one) related to windows or regulators. Just click on their user name

My understanding of the problem was from studing others fixes, then analizing why what they did helped the problems.

[k4tmc]

Some "before" (stock) and "after" detailed photos would be good. I have the problem with both windows and need to fix them, but I hesitate to start without knowing exactly what I need to do. :confused:
I do not want to turn this into a project that takes days to complete, i.e., driving around with the door panels off. :(

[disasterlady]

Hey Guys... me too.
I would like to start with WHAT lubricant do I use and Where do I lube exactly? I bought some white lithium grease. I am working on this prob right now...

[Bulldoggie]

I use the 3m brand Silicone spray with the straw nozzle.
Spray all the rubber, on the inside, in the window path.
Spray extra by the bottom of the window opening.
Run the windows up and down a few times, to let the silicone get to the rubber tracks inside the door.
Wipe any excess on the glass when done.

[disasterlady]

Thanks Bulldoggie... I was hoping that you would be on! Since you seem to have the most info and/or experience with this... I'm gonna run down to Autozone right now. You folks are GREAT!!!

[Bulldoggie]

I wasn't online, but I get E-mail alerts on threads I've participated on.
I do try to check the site often, just to see what is going on, and to stay up on any "latest mods"

[disasterlady]

okay the lubricating isn't helping enough... my tabs are not broke but the window still tilts forward and drags out of the back side track. Before I try any major metal revamping, Is there a need to replace the weather stripping and does anyone know where and how much that costs?

[Bulldoggie]

I do not believe replacing the rubber will make any difference.
Some members have had fixed this problem by removing the door panel and widening the front track (and pushing it forward a bit) to ease the friction / drag.
The only problem with this fix is you cannot widen the track (or push it forward) at the top 1/3 of the track due to the mirror, where it is welded in place. It might work but will most likely will raise slower near the top.
Slotting the holes, that hold the lift arm in place, is not major surgery.
Slotted holes are used all the time for adding adjustability. (Like on Alternator Brackets, for tightening the belt).
Using a washer and lock washer should remove any fear of having slotted holes.
Take the time to watch the window raise and lower a few times while the panel is off.
If you see the arm pull away from the bottom of the glass, add some washers to keep it under the glass, otherwise the tabs will break.

[disasterlady]

Thanks for replying... I will have to tackle this again on monday. But do you have the instructions on the slot holes somewhere in the thread that I missed?
I wouldn't know where and how to put them otherwise.... sorry to be such a pain. :confused:

[Bulldoggie]

Some "before" (stock) and "after" detailed photos would be good. I have the problem with both windows and need to fix them, but I hesitate to start without knowing exactly what I need to do. :confused:
I do not want to turn this into a project that takes days to complete, i.e., driving around with the door panels off. :(

Slotting the holes and adding washers, taking the panel off and putting it back.
Only takes about an hour maybe two.
If you have broken window tabs, it might take longer to mix up some epoxy.
Don't be afraid to use alot to encapsulate the entire break.
Leave the window up for a day before trying to lower,(cure time) but you can still put the panel back on.

[disasterlady]

sorry... was there an attachment or some other link that I was suppose to take? I still don't understand the slotting.

[Bulldoggie]

Thanks for replying... I will have to tackle this again on monday. But do you have the instructions on the slot holes somewhere in the thread that I missed?
I wouldn't know where and how to put them otherwise.... sorry to be such a pain. :confused:

Click on my user name to look at the pictures in my gallery. Even more discriptions of the pictures are in the treads. You can look at all treads about windows that I have posted the same way, when you click on a users name you get a pop-up menu. Very handy.

[disasterlady]

thanks again... you can tell I am new to the site!

[vrsvx]

I bought some Sticky Putty off HSN.COM and it seems to bond to just about anything. It bonds to glass. brick, just about anything. I have the classic drivers door window hangups that most of us have. I will attempt to pull the door panel this weekend and try it. I will let the group know how successful or not this goes.

[Rednex]

So - my newly acquired '99 VX has 'widows woe'. I was told so by seller, so we just discounted some from his price tag, and I have not risked even opening neither of windows so far. ;)

I carefully went through all the thread, yet I have couple of Qs unclear still:

1. where do you apply those washers in order to align the lifting mechanism right below the glass? Any explanatory pics anybody? :rolleyes:

2. Have I understood correctly, that moving glass-holding tabs forward ~5mm (~0.2 inches) so that they push glass firmly in the back slider TOGETHER with applying washers mentioned in (1) SHOULD fix the problem once and for good?

Advance thanx on clarifications! :p

P.S.

Suggestion for tabs creation and fixing: may be one can use stiff rubber used usually in engine pillows or axle stoppers (don't know right eng term for them; I mean bumpers below car to stop shocks and springs being driven too deep into wheel arch. I have four of such on my Discovery and Defender, have not looked beneath VX yet... ;) ), and for gluing use glass-fixing adhesive used by professional guys replacing windows on contemporary cars? Just thinking out loud... :)

[Tobert]

I made my own tabs from plastic and used GOOP adhesive to put everything together. My drivers' window with the homemade brackets is still working perfectly and I use it all the time. It was cheap, but not trivial to make the tabs. The plastic I used is more flexible than the stock pieces, so even if the door does bind the window, they won't break off again. I also took the opportunity to push the window into the back channnel properly.

http://vehicross.info/forums/showpost.php?p=79844&postcount=27
http://vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=9013

[Bulldoggie]

So - my newly acquired '99 VX has 'widows woe'. I was told so by seller, so we just discounted some from his price tag, and I have not risked even opening neither of windows so far. ;)

I carefully went through all the thread, yet I have couple of Qs unclear still:

1. where do you apply those washers in order to align the lifting mechanism right below the glass? Any explanatory pics anybody? :rolleyes:

2. Have I understood correctly, that moving glass-holding tabs forward ~5mm (~0.2 inches) so that they push glass firmly in the back slider TOGETHER with applying washers mentioned in (1) SHOULD fix the problem once and for good?

Advance thanx on clarifications! :p




Answer #1
The amount of washers depends on how far your inner door panel has been pulled in, it should be a different amount for every problem.
You replace the stock bolts (four) with longer metric bolts.
lower the window and remove the two bottom stock bolts.that hold the lift arm mechanism.
place as many washers between the bolt holes as needed to place the lift arm under the glass.
unbolting the glass is a good way of checking if the arm is under the glass, it should hold it up without bolts.
after counting the washers, tape them together like a roll of pennies, to make two spacers. re-bolt the bottom of the lift arm mechanism with the longer bolts.
Raise the window near the top, and repete all these step with the upper two bolts.
There are pictures in my gallery.

If you have it right you should be able to raise and lower your window unbolted from the glass.


Answer #2
Lower the window again. unbolt the window glass tabs from the lifting arm.
Push the glass as far as you can into the rear window guide.
Look at the window tab and lift arm bolt holes.
if they do not line up, you need to:
a) move / replace the window tabs and re-glue them.
b) slot the holes in the lift arm. (if it is close)
c) slot the lift mechanism holes. (the same four that now have spacers)

Again there are pictures in my gallery.

If you have it right you should be able to raise and lower your window unbolted from the glass.
I just finished this repair after the brass insert ripped loose from the nylon window bolt. forcing another alignment to releave the binding. After all privious fixes the window had a tendency to tilt foward when raising as it came into the non adjustable mirror( about 4" from the top) part of the front guide that is widened and pushed foward in the Common "fix". the REAL issue is the window needs to move back into the rear guide. Each door is probibly a little different and where they glued the tabs on the window would make a lot of change in the adjustment also.
The discriptions are in the gallary, ALL pictures are of the DRIVER side only.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/P10100011.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6521)http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/P1010002.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6522)http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/P1010003.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6523)http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/P1010004.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6524)http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/P10100052.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6525)http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/P1010006.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6526)http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/P10100071.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6527)http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/P10100082.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6528)http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/P10100092.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6529)http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/P10100101.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6530)

[Rednex]

Answer #1
..................
Answer #2
..................

That's the kind of answer I didn't even dare to dream about! :) Just don't remove the pics - I'll get hands-on on my VX next week. A well earned 2 vacation weeks right before xmas holidays - the best time to shape up all three babies... ;)

Thanx a ton, Bulldoggie!

[VXNIT]

If tabs are broken.

What is overall best adhesive to use?

Who has corrected without a second fix needed and what method did you use?

Are the GM tabs the way to go with added adhesive?

Are GM clips to stiff like OEM and break? Are making out of other plastic material superior?

Is spacing necessary?

Is there a link with step by step instructions to fix and items neede for us intimdated shade tree mechanics????

If tabs are not brken adn window tilts forward during use what is best approach to fix?

[IndianaVX]

puff puff, (blowing the dust off this thread!!)
well, ive been having some problems with the window, with the weather changing. ive done all the mods months ago, and have had no problems. but when the weather warmed up last week, the epoxy i put in the tabs came loose from the glass, and have been wrestling with the window for about a week, you know, slowing the back end down to keep the window in track, etc....
well, today, as a storm front was comming in, the window decided to go out of the front track, break my clip in front, cut the rubber some more.....ugh,
so i FINALLY got the window back in the track, and rolled up. came home, looked up the window tab GM part#22689012 off of this thread, gave my dealer a call, and what do you know, they had three of em. so i bought one, and i must say, they work perfectly.
they might be just the teensiest bit higher than the stock, but i was putting it in the front, so it just added to the tilt, which is good. the only mod i made was to clip off some very small tabs on each side,(youll see what im talking about if you get one) but other than that, they work very well. just wanted to add my testamony to a great find!!!
oh, i also used jb weld to "glue" them to the window.

david