Oil Change Check List

[nfpgasmask]

Attn all DIY gear heads! When anyone out there who is good at changing their own oil has some spare time, could you please post a reply with an oil change materiels checklist? I'm talking anything and everything I will definitely need, and anything else I should consider to make the job easier/better. I want to do my own change next time so I want to start shopping and getting all the tools and supplies I will need.

My list so far:

[ ] Socket Set
[ ] Oil Pan
[ ] New Oil (not sure how much to get though for a full change)
[ ] New Filter
[ ] Jack
[ ] Jack Stands
[ ] Wrenches (any particular sizes needed??)
[ ] Funnel

Thanks folks!

Bart

[etlsport]

id ad a pcv valve.... only takes a few minutes and a couple bucks... the only tools i needed were a 22mm box end wrench ($13 at sears) to get the oil plug off and i used a set of adjustable pipe pliers to get the oil cap off in the engine bay because it was late and i didnt feel like messing with getting my hands dry/clean etc , the oil filter came off by hand and was hand tightened.. i also didnt need a jack or jack stands, although to get the last little bit of oil out i jacked up the rear pass side with the bottle jack that came w/ the VX

i put 5 quarts of oil in

[Triathlete]

Although the jack and jack stands are handy and safe things to have for DIY auto fixes they are not needed for the oil change. The VX has plenty of clearance and the oil filter is right near the front just behind the radiator. You might add an inexpensive tarp to throw under to protect the driveway/garage floor from any possible spills. Lookks like you have everything else covered. 5qts will do you.

[nfpgasmask]

Cool, thanks guys. I think I will buy a cheap creeper too. I'm sure I will use it often. Also, I have read about different kinds of plugs for the drain caps and lubs for the oil filter to make it easier to get on and off.

Any suggestions in this dept. would be great also. After I figure this out, I need to do my other fluids too.

Bart

[Triathlete]

The factory plug has worked for 98,000 mile for me. As for the filter just dab a little oil on your finger and rub it on the filter gasket.

[etlsport]

theres a thread from not too long ago where joe black suggested a new type of oil plug that just has a release valve so you dont need any tools for an oil change you should look it up, looked pretty cool if you dont plan on doing a lot of offroading

as for the oil filter wrench, i saw those and almost got one because my filter was pretty stuck... my secret... my inner computer nerd! i used my mousepad to grip the oil filter, the bottom of old style mouse pads are really grippy, and the cusion gives you that little bit of extra torque, works like a charm (i actually learned this from an ex girlfriend who refused to let me open pickle jars for her, she would go get the mousepad to open them)

[VehiX]

How about adding a new copper washer to the list. I hear over time this can become damaged or over tourqued and possibly become a leak source.

The copper washer I'm referring to goes between the pan and the plug.

[omega_the_first]

Make sure you put enough oil in VX. A premium grade synthetic oil would be helpful as well. Try Mobil 1 in the silver bottle. Change the air filter while your at.


Now I've a question for any one who could answer it. How much oil should your VX drink when your changing it.

[johnnyapollo]

At minimum, 5 quarts Mobile 1 Synthetic Oil, Oil Filter, Wrench (you can us a crescent wrench but a box end wrench would be better), Pan for spent oil.

I've had a few filter wrenches - the best I've found (for the money) is the filter pliers you can pick up at Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=36778

The filter is right in front so a creeper really isn't necessary - I own one and it always seems to get in my way. Jack stands really aren't necessary for the oil change but they are useful for other maintenance tasks. I put newspapers under the pan and filter. I've also got this oil pan that has a built in funnel so that if you drop the drain plug it'll catch it - keeps you from having to fish it out of the pan. The copper washer that came with the VX is probably the only one you'll ever need (it basically doesn't wear out).

I change the PCV every other oil change and use a funnel to refill the block. Once I'm done I carry the pan to Autozone to recycle (the pan has a cap so it's sealable).

-- John

[Cobrajet]

The copper washer that came with the VX is probably the only one you'll ever need (it basically doesn't wear out).
I have to disagree here. I've had my drain plug seep after the dealer changed the oil without changing the washer. I assumed that they would change it as part of their normal service, but they didn't. That may be because I've always provided the Mobil 1 oil and filters. I buy several 14mm copper seals when I buy filters, change them out every time, and include one with the oil I give to the dealer. It's cheap insurance.

[rowhard]

Wow, didn't know changing oil could get this many reponses. My 2cents. A proper wrench is nice, but a german fitsall, or is that a mexican speed wrench, what we call a 10 inch Crescent wrench will work fine if you use it correctly. The new crush washer isn't a bad idea, not that I change them on a regular basis, and haven't had a leak in over 40 years of changing my own oil. I do like that mouse pad trick and will add one to my tool box. A racing trick is to pre-oil the filter, helps prevent surges. You would be amazed how much oil it will hold. Speaking of filters, I'm sorry, Fram is crap, they spend all their money on ad's instead of filter material. NAPA Gold, Baldwin if you can find it are some of the best. Pick a Fram up and then a good filter and feel the difference in weight and that is filtering material. A creep is cool if your a skinny guy, other wise, just keep a large flattened cardboard box stashed against the garage wall. And picking up the right rear corner is a cool idea that I will for sure do. ANyway, my 2 cents

[nfpgasmask]

OK, here is my new list (some stuff I already have):

MUST HAVES:

[ ] 5 Quarts of Mobile 1 Synthetic
[ ] New Oil Filter (Brands? NAPA Gold or Baldwin I will try for)
[x] PCV 193
[x] Box End Wrench Set
[x] Socket Set
[ ] Oil Pan
[x] Funnel
[x] Cardboard Box
[x] Jack

OPTIONAL STUFF:

[ ] Filter Wrench
[ ] Jack Stands
[ ] Creeper
[ ] New 14mm Copper Washer

I will be collecting the tools I do not already have over the next couple weeks. I guess my only remaining questions would be about different brands for oil filters, and more about this copper washer and if I should worry about it.

Also, how do you "torque to spec" - I guess I mean, how tight is right? I don't want to bust anything, but I guess a leak is better than breaking or stripping something. Any tips here on tightening? (this will help me in other maintenance areas as well)

Thanks again everyone.

Sweating in Chicago,

Bart

[JHarris1385]

Have not had the oppurtunity to change the oil to my VX just has it less than a week but I like to change the oil to any new car i buy so I know when my course oil change lies within.....

PCV valve never changed one before, where is it located on the VX and how hard it is replace? I looked at AutoZone for one 193 but they didnt carry it. I guess ill have to order it but from where?

[nfpgasmask]

OK, the PCV Valve is easy. Just pop your hood and slowly pull off the V6 plastic cover. Pull it straight up and be careful not to loose the 4 rubber nubs, they will most likely stick to the posts, so you will have to pull them off and put them back in their holes on the underside of the plastic cover before you put it back on:

http://www.nofuture.com/myvx/rubbers.jpg

The PCV Valve is right there underneath the front corner of the right side of the engine, if you are facing the hood, you can see it in the top picture too if you look closely, but I did not circle it there:

http://www.nofuture.com/myvx/pcv.jpg

Just pinch the retaining clamp and pull of the hose, and then pull the old valve out. Put the new one in and reattach the hose.

Replace the plastic cover and you're done!

As for the Deutsch PCV193, Autozone does carry them, but you have to search a few different ways. Do a "Parts Search" for PCV 193 (with a space) and it should come up.

And, I have a question now too, I recently got the Purolator PV1061 valve from a shop cause the Deutsch version was not available. Has anyone used this kind before? Are there any issues using this type? It looks a little different (bigger) than the Deutsch version.

http://www.nofuture.com/myvx/valves.jpg

Thanks, Bart







Have not had the oppurtunity to change the oil to my VX just has it less than a week but I like to change the oil to any new car i buy so I know when my course oil change lies within.....

PCV valve never changed one before, where is it located on the VX and how hard it is replace? I looked at AutoZone for one 193 but they didnt carry it. I guess ill have to order it but from where?

[Joe_Black]

AutoZone has a nylon seal for the drain plug that's about $.50 and works very well for those who haven't upgraded to the Fumoto valve.

[Ldub]

RE: Purolator 1061

Yes, I use them & I like em'...& here's why, they use the weight of the ball bearing inside to control flow rather than being spring loaded.
This gives them a rattle when you shake them, so It's easier to tell if they're gummed up or not.
Thaz jus my two cents on PCV valves...worth exactly what ya paid. ;)

[nfpgasmask]

I just finished changing my own oil! Wow, that was WAY easy. I honestly can't believe they charge $75+ to do a Mobile-1 change at Jiffy Lube.

I must say however, the worst part is carefully pouring my spent oil back into the containers. I made a little bit of a mess but not too bad. Might need a little Oil Dry here and there :eek:

The old oil filter came off with no problem, just unscrewed it and didn't even have to give it any pressure. The drain plug on the other hand was a little whore to get off. I ended up going BACK to Pep Boys for the 5th time in the last 36 hours to buy myself a 22mm wratchet bit and a breaker bar. Then it was like butta.

Anyway, VX running smooth, no CE light, no rough idle. TIME FOR CELEBRATION!

Thanks everyone for the help.

Bart

PS - Yes, I also put in a new PCV Valve :)