Tranny Filter

[nfpgasmask]

Hey everyone, I'm going to be doing a fluid change on my VX soon, probably this weekend. I'm bring the VX to a friends shop and we are going to do it there.

I am going to go with Mobile 1 ATF. Is this the only 'fluid' product I need? I will probably be using Joe Black's awesome instructions for this also.

As for the tranny filter, can someone provide a part number so I know what I need to buy? I want to try to find this as soon as possible so I can have it for this weekend.

Any other links or pointers on changing the ATF in the transfer case and the tranny is appreciated. Pretend like I know nothing (cause I don't).

Thanks - Bart

[Ldub]

As long as you're at it, might wanna change the frt. & r. diffs. to synth. too.
Don't forget some LSD additive for the rear.

[Joe_Black]

I haven't detailed a filter change on my instructions as it's just a fluid change, but hope to do a filter tutorial soon. If you look in my gallery there should be pics of the TOD/transfer case along with the diffs indicating drain and fill points. All three are pretty simple though, simply drain from the bottom and then fill to the fill opening. I've used Mobil-1 gear lube with excellent results, but you still need LSD additive for the rear. ATF goes in the TOD/transfer case.

Remember to disconnect your negative battery cable before you get started! Ya don't wanna get squished. ;)

EDIT: Here's the gallery album with the drain and fill pics - http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=3058

[Andrey]

Here we go:
Tranny filter - part number 8-96015-062-0 ($84.89) (price was accurate as of several years ago when I've purchased)

[nfpgasmask]

Cool, I'll try to find that filter. Is that part number for a specific brand or is this just a general part number?

Thanks - Bart

[Andrey]

Cool, I'll try to find that filter. Is that part number for a specific brand or is this just a general part number?

Thanks - Bart

This is ISUZU OEM part, original. Not sure if anybody did aftermarket. If they did it will be cheaper but I guess the quality might be the same

Good luck !

[nfpgasmask]

I guess I might have to call upon Merlin for this....

Anyone know if there is an option for this that would be available at an Autozone or something?

Thanks - Bart


This is ISUZU OEM part, original. Not sure if anybody did aftermarket. If they did it will be cheaper but I guess the quality might be the same

Good luck !

[Joe_Black]

It's the same tranny as in the Trooper, so you should find a cross but in the case of a transmission filter OEM is usually better quality.

[Tobert]

I got my tranny filter at Autozone for like $24. NAPA wanted over $50. They even had it listed for the VX.

[nfpgasmask]

Yup! I just got off the phone with AutoZone here, they have 1 in stock and are holding it for me. $24.99. He even said it is OEM, is that possible?

Bart


I got my tranny filter at Autozone for like $24. NAPA wanted over $50. They even had it listed for the VX.

[Tone]

Pan gasket is a bear to change. I would strongly recommend the new inline filter that filters to 10 micron instead of the 60 micron of the stock filter.

[Joe_Black]

An inline filter on the 4L30E is very ill-advised as the stock filter is on the suction side of the transmission pump whereas an inline filter has to be mounted on either cooler line, causing line pressure and potential blockage from the discharge side of the valve body.

Using an inline filter without the proper plumbing and additional pumps is a guaranteed opportunity to kill your transmission.

[nfpgasmask]

Tone, could you please elaborate here on why the pan gasket is difficult to change?

Thanks - Bart



Pan gasket is a bear to change. I would strongly recommend the new inline filter that filters to 10 micron instead of the 60 micron of the stock filter.

[nfpgasmask]

Joe, well, since they have the filter I need sitting at AutoZone, I will go with this one. Can you tell me if there is anything I need to remember/take note of when I change it?

Looks like you and Tone will have to duke this one out!

Bart


An inline filter on the 4L30E is very ill-advised as the stock filter is on the suction side of the transmission pump whereas an inline filter has to be mounted on either cooler line, causing line pressure and potential blockage from the discharge side of the valve body.

Using an inline filter without the proper plumbing and additional pumps is a guaranteed opportunity to kill your transmission.

[Joe_Black]

Nothing to duke out, just difference of opinions. :p With a motorsports, marine and aviation background my line of thinking follows two doctrines: Keep it simple and Failure is not an option. I base my opinions on real-world facts and keep my yap shut shut until I've seen and touched actual data. I've made bad calls and mistakes, and I'm sure there's more in my future. I'm always willing to learn and see a different point of view, as long as it's backed up and not purely passion or flaming ignorance.

Now, as for changing the transmission filter: There is some clearance issues with a cross member under the pan. If you have the service manual that should give you a good idea as to what's involved, or you can sped some time laying under you VX and attempt to grok the situation. Failing either of those two just post here and I'll post up some pics and the relevant sections from the service manual.

Since you're planning on dropping the pan you may want to get your hands on a torque wrench as it's real easy to strip or break the pan bolts. One or two isn't critical, but it will annoy you to no end.

Oh, see if they have nylon gasket scrapers when you get your filter. One of the best tools to have for cleaning up gasket surfaces as it's virtually impossible to mess up and score or scratch the mating surfaces.

[ojmagg]

You've got to drop the cross-member, support the tranny, undo 15 10mm bolts on the pan, make sure you don't strip them when you put them back in....

The gasket it's self will need to be scraped off...there's going to be fluid in there...

[nfpgasmask]

OK, so do I need to buy a new gasket too? Or should this come with the replacement filter?

Bart

[Joe_Black]

Should come with gasket, be sure to check the package.

[nfpgasmask]

Thanks Joe,

If it does not come with the gasket, what should I look for? Sorry for all the questions, thanks for taking the time to reply.

Bart


Should come with gasket, be sure to check the package.

[Joe_Black]

No problem! IIRC, you just need the pan gasket and the filter which are both typically included in a "kit" from AutoZone and similar merchants. Otherwise you'll need to order the gasket separately. A thin film of Permatex applied to the pan mating surface will help keep the gasket in place. If you've never seen an automatic transmission filter they're kinda funky looking and some have an o-ring or retention clip. I don't recall seeing anything like this on Isuzu transmissions, but that doesn't mean it won't be there.

Do you have the CD service manual?

[nfpgasmask]

Hey again, yes, I have the CD manual. I will be bringing my laptop with this on it and a bunch of other stuff (like your pics) to the shop when I go.

Thanks again,

Bart

PS - 2 more stupid questions, what does "IIRC" stand for, and what is Permatex?



No problem! IIRC, you just need the pan gasket and the filter which are both typically included in a "kit" from AutoZone and similar merchants. Otherwise you'll need to order the gasket separately. A thin film of Permatex applied to the pan mating surface will help keep the gasket in place. If you've never seen an automatic transmission filter they're kinda funky looking and some have an o-ring or retention clip. I don't recall seeing anything like this on Isuzu transmissions, but that doesn't mean it won't be there.

Do you have the CD service manual?

[nfpgasmask]

I suppose this is what you are talking about?

http://www.neverseezproducts.com/gasketmake.htm

:) Bart

[Tobert]

Thanks Joe,

If it does not come with the gasket, what should I look for? Sorry for all the questions, thanks for taking the time to reply.

Bart

I bought mine at Autozone about 4 weeks ago and it included a gasket. Go out today and spray some penetrating lube on the cross member bolts as they're probably pretty tight in there.

[Tobert]

I suppose this is what you are talking about?

http://www.neverseezproducts.com/gasketmake.htm

:) Bart

I usually use permatex copper for everything. You shouldn't need any for the transmission pan. In fact, it is not recommended, as it can act as a lube helping your gasket slide out of place as you tighten things up. Another reason not to use silicone is that pieces of it will break off and plug something important in your transmission. It has a lot more tiny holes and valves in it than your engine does.

If you do put some on, apply a little to the pan first, put the gasket on, then let it dry a bit so it acts as an adhesive instead. Still, it's best not to use any at all. Just clean everything well and the gasket will be fine.

[Joe_Black]

As Tobert mentions this is more as an adhesive use of the Permatex than sealing. I find that in many situations with an odd-shaped gasket that's been folded in a box for a while that you need more fingers than most of us come with to hold the gasket in place while trying to relocate the part into an assembly position. Using a high-tack slow drying gasket sealant in a thin, consistent layer helps a great deal and lets you focus on getting the part back into place without damaging the gasket.

Permatex Number 2 is just such a prodcut and is commonly available.

http://www.permatex.com/images/DisplayImage.asp?210|/images/ProductPhotos/80015.jpg

Great stuff: http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/auto_Permatex_Form-A-Gasket_No_2_Sealant.htm

Just always remember to always apply any gasket sealer to the removable part side of the gasket surface unless specifically directed to do otherwise. This makes it very easy to clean the old gasket and sealant off when servicing the part in the future.

[nfpgasmask]

Thanks everyone, I'll report back with any problems next week! Hopefully it will go well, and depending on how disgustingly hot it is this weekend, I may try to photograph the session.

Bart

PS - anything above 70 degrees F is for cold-blooded creatures. Thank god summer in Chi-Town is short...

[Tone]

Absolutely NO gasket sealer on any of the VX gaskets (except oil pan) ESPECIALLY the tranny pan. I prefer the composite gaskets over the cork that comes with some filters but either should be work if you don't overtighten.

[nfpgasmask]

I just picked up the filter. It turned out to be $29.99 actually. Not too bad. The guy said it is OEM, came in a simple white box with cork gasket. I have the cork gasket flattening out right now, hopefully the folds will come out by this weekend.

Thanks - Bart

[nfpgasmask]

Also, one more thing, if I am doing a transmission fluid and filter change, and the trans case, how much fluid should I buy? From what I have read on here, looks like 10 quarts should do the job. I told this to my buddy who is going to help me with the fluid change, and he said "no way, my truck (Dodge Ram Sport) only took like 5 quarts!"

So, I'm doing the transmission and the transfer case at the same time, so how much ATF should I buy? I'm going to Wal*mart tommorrow to see if they have the Mobile 1 synth.

Thanks to everyone again.

Bart

[SPAZZ]

that all depends. depends on how much comes out. But, if you buy 10 and only 7 comes out... then you will be fine now won't you?

If you buy 5 and 7 come out then you will be making a trip.

[Tone]

You will only get about 5 maybe 6 quarts out as the converter and cooler will still retain fluid. But always have more on hand in case you spill a bottle or 2 as pumping fluid UP into a tranny is a very messy job. Best way to get all the fluid out is to have it flushed and if you add the inline filter after you do this change, you will never have to drop the pan again - only drain and fill and replace this simple inline filter.

[nfpgasmask]

Yeah, I can always take some back or save some for few days in case I have some leaks 0_0

Thanks - Bart


that all depends. depends on how much comes out. But, if you buy 10 and only 7 comes out... then you will be fine now won't you?

If you buy 5 and 7 come out then you will be making a trip.

[Joe_Black]

Using the technique in my how-to on about 5 4L30E trannies so far has yielded an average of 8 quarts. You get about a quart from dropping the adapter pan and there's the additional fluid that comes out when you start cycling through the gears once you get to that stage.

As Spazz is getting at, it's better to have it and not need then need it and not have it. ;)

[UtahVXer]

Joe,
Can you explain a little bit more what you mean about an inline filter possibly damaging the tranny? I was thinking about getting one, but don't want to do anything that might be harmful. ACDelco claims their filter "maintains proper fluid flow" and even has a safety bypass valve "to maintain coninuous flow" in the event filter blockage occurs:

Magnetic In-Line Transmission Filters
Additional protection can never hurt, so consider using a magnetic in-line filter from ACDelco to help remove tiny metal particles from the transmission fluid. Each kit includes the filter, two hoses, four clamps, instruction sheet, and a removable reminder sticker for scheduled replacement. The barbed fittings are designed to easily fit into transmission or power steering lines. ACDelco Universal Magnetic In-Line Transmission Filters offer these other great benefits:
Injection-molded, reinforced nylon casing is temperature-, vibration- and impact-resistant
Powerful ferrite-filled polyamide magnet attracts ferrous contaminants
Designed to provide effective filtration while maintaining proper fluid flow
Safety by-pass valve helps enable continuous fluid flow if filter blockage occurs
Steel sleeve maintains rigidity of paper filter
Large, fine paper element removes nonferrous particles

http://www.acdelco.com/parts/filters/transmission-filters.htm

Any more information would be appreciated. Thanks.

[Tobert]

They have a fluid pump at Autozone that works great for the VX transmission. I tried that whole funnel and hose thing and it took too long. The hose that comes with it is perfect to stuff into the fill hole. I found mine back by the tractor and gearcase oil.

[Joe_Black]

Joe,
Can you explain a little bit more what you mean about an inline filter possibly damaging the tranny? I was thinking about getting one, but don't want to do anything that might be harmful. ACDelco claims their filter "maintains proper fluid flow" and even has a safety bypass valve "to maintain coninuous flow" in the event filter blockage occurs:
On most automatic transmisssions, especially so on the 4L30E, the fluid is circulated to the cooler via a low-pressure output from the valve body of the transmission. Its design parameters cover just moving the fluid through unrestricted lines and the transmission already has a filter designed to 400% of necessary capacity. For an aftermarket filter to go into bypass mode a certain line pressure has to be reached, usually between 30 and 50 psi depending on the filter and system. At those pressures the valve body will have pretty much found somewhere less desireable to pump the fluid internally.

The return from the tranny cooler just dumps back into the pan where the fluid is suctioned through the filter. Again, the source wasn't designed with enough pressure to push fluid through filter media. It can, for a time, but it won't like it.

If you look at professional and motorsports transmission filter setups there's always an outboard pump to move the fluid through the filter media and any additional or specially mounted coolers. That outboard pump picks up from the valve body output and boosts it to the necessary pressure to get through whatever additional plumbing is in the system.

Hope that helps explain my opinion. ;)

[Tone]

Sure SOME inline filters can do what you describe but if you will investigate the one I recommend (and have used on the VX and the ML) http://epntz-filter.com/sect1b.asp with incredible cleanup results (I'll post results soon from a 30 day before and after test)! All of the fluid is not forced through the filter but rather a percentage is bypasses each time - it takes many passes to clean the fluid and in the event of a blockage, has a failsafe bypass. PPNTZ designed this filter for Ford and cut their tranny failures by over 40%.

The fluid to the cooler IS under reasonable pressure and not just suction from the pump as evidenced by cutting the line to install the filter and turning over the motor just a click and over 8oz of fluid comes shoolting out. Everything I recommend here I USE first BEFORE talking about it. If it doesn't work for me, I can't really suggest if for someone else.

4L30E tranny pressures are much higher than you state Joe, running as high as 150psi during hard shifts - put a guage on the fitting on the driver's side of the tranny. 4 micron debris vs 80micron debris floating around and through the transmission - which is better for it? Or maybe all these inline filter manufacturer's are in cahoots with the tranny manufacture's to cause early failures.....

[Joe_Black]

4L30E tranny pressures are much higher than you state Joe, running as high as 150psi during hard shifts - put a guage on the fitting on the driver's side of the tranny.
I'd like to do that to compare to the service manual specs. Please detail how you were able to plumb such a gauge, monitor and log its pressure trends during operation.

[nfpgasmask]

OK, so yesterday, I changed the fluid in the trans, transfer case, and put in a new transmission filter & gasket.

First off, let me say that my fluid was BAD. Totally chocolate colored and burnt smelling. I'm at 29,000 miles and I do not think this service has ever been performed. I drained about 5 quarts or so of fluid.

It really was not as difficult as I thought it was going to be. I did the service with my good friend who is also a part-time mechanic. He was utterly amazed that the VX has no dipstick or fill reservoir under the hood. We used a little hand pump that we got at Pep Boys to pump the new ATF in. I used Mobile 1 ATF. We filled the trans until the fill plug was just spilling out ATF. I think this is the right amount. I hope so anyway. I'm going under again to check for leaks and to check my fluid level again today or tomorrow.

Thanks to the tips from everyone, I felt confident enough to do this work on my own. If anyone has any follow-up tips or precautions, please let me know.

Also, one thing that made it easier: I bought my filter and gasket about a week prior to the service. As soon as I got the filter and gasket, I took out the gasket and put it flat under my floor matting all week. So, when it came time to replace the gasket, I was able to lay in on the pan nice and flat and replaced it with no difficulty. The old gasket came off easily as well. Didn't need to scrape at all.

Shifting seemed smoother from the get go. All in all, the job went smooth.
Even in power mode, shifting felt better, however I think the aggressive shifting is normal for power mode.

I'm rolling out to the dunes this weekend. After I get back, I'm gonna change the diff fluid and soon after I'm gonna change the tranny fluid again since I switched to synthetic.


Thanks - Bart

[Joe_Black]

Glad to hear ya got the job done Bart! Wasn't that bad after all, huh? ;)

If you didn't cycle through all the gears under brake load before finishing, be sure to check your fluid level again as the TC and valve body will suck up a bunch, not to mention the little bit saturating the new filter. In that case you'll get in maybe around 2 more quarts. And the more you get in there the better!

Personally I wouldn't worry about another immediate fluid change because of the switch to syntehtic. Maybe wait at least 10 to 15 thousand miles. The reason for most short changes after switching to synthetic is for engines where synthetic typically releases built-up sludge from a motor previously used with conventional oil. This isn't a problem with a transmission in most cases.

[nfpgasmask]

Hey Thanks! No, it really wasn't nearly as hard as I anticipated. Just messy, messy, messy.

Yes, after we filled it up and capped off the fill plug, I started her up and cycled through all the gears, then I drove it about a mile to the local lunch joint, ate, came back and checked the level again, it was fine, a small stream poured out. I guess I am more worried about overfill. I am going to unplug it again tonight or tomorrow just to be sure, as I am going on a 5 hour drive to the dunes this Friday.

Bart



Glad to hear ya got the job done Bart! Wasn't that bad after all, huh? ;)

If you didn't cycle through all the gears under brake load before finishing, be sure to check your fluid level again as the TC and valve body will suck up a bunch, not to mention the little bit saturating the new filter. In that case you'll get in maybe around 2 more quarts. And the more you get in there the better!

Personally I wouldn't worry about another immediate fluid change because of the switch to syntehtic. Maybe wait at least 10 to 15 thousand miles. The reason for most short changes after switching to synthetic is for engines where synthetic typically releases built-up sludge from a motor previously used with conventional oil. This isn't a problem with a transmission in most cases.

[Ldub]

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/fluid1.png

This has been posted in the past, but just in case you missed it...

[Joe_Black]

Yeah, the whole "no dipstick" aspect of the 4L30E has been it's greatest complaint for the owners of the various makes it's been installed in. Once, I came across mention of a "dipstick tube" part and had hoped to see if such a thing would bolt up to the models without a tube. Never could get more info than the vague snippet I stumbled on.

If the Aisin 5-speed install goes nicely in the rally VX we're building then I may just need to convert the IronMan too. ;)

[nfpgasmask]

Yeah, and then I can stop by next time i'm in FLA and have you do up mine too! ;)

Now, I must tell you, on the way home from work today the shifting slammed a few times while going up from 2nd to 3rd, and I was not in power mode either. I did what I did last time, pulled over, shut off for a minute, started up and drove home the rest of the way with no trouble.

I wonder why this happens, especially since I just changed my fluid. I am not happy about this, but maybe its just how the VX is. I dunno. I'm gonna check my level once she cools down a bit. I hope there is nothing seriously "wrong" or "damaged" with my VX's tranny. Especially since the VX is still "new" to me, being an owner for only 3-4 month now.

Bart


Yeah, the whole "no dipstick" aspect of the 4L30E has been it's greatest complaint for the owners of the various makes it's been installed in. Once, I came across mention of a "dipstick tube" part and had hoped to see if such a thing would bolt up to the models without a tube. Never could get more info than the vague snippet I stumbled on.

If the Aisin 5-speed install goes nicely in the rally VX we're building then I may just need to convert the IronMan too. ;)

[Ldub]

Some of you plagued by slam bam shifting might possibly have gotten one that has had the trans. interceptor installed & tweaked a little too much.
It's a remote possibility, but ...
Just a thought.

[nfpgasmask]

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/fluid1.png

This has been posted in the past, but just in case you missed it...

Yeah, I have seen it, printed it and keep a copy in my VX. But let me ask you all, what exactly does the document mean by:

"Add released transmission fluid until it flows out over the overfill screw opening."

How do you add "released" fluid? I assume released fluid is fluid that is coming out of the fill hole??? And when the doc refers to the "overfill screw opening", is this the same as the fill hole? Or is there another opening that I missed all together???

The document is very confusing to me. Everything else makes sense but that. Can someone clear this up?

Thanks,

Bart

[Ldub]

I'm pretty sure the "overfill screw opening" is the same as the fill opening, especially in light of the fact that they mention replacing the gasket on only two locations (overfill & drain).
As far as "released" fluid goes...who knows.
One thing to keep in mind, these manuals are often translated by a person or persons who have a marginal grasp of the english language & it's terminologies/ proper usage.

[Tobert]

Yeah, the whole "no dipstick" aspect of the 4L30E has been it's greatest complaint for the owners of the various makes it's been installed in. Once, I came across mention of a "dipstick tube" part and had hoped to see if such a thing would bolt up to the models without a tube. Never could get more info than the vague snippet I stumbled on.

If the Aisin 5-speed install goes nicely in the rally VX we're building then I may just need to convert the IronMan too. ;)

Take LOTS of pictures! I would love to have a manual in my VX. Are you going with a donor vehicle or piecing it together?

[Joe_Black]

Are you going with a donor vehicle or piecing it together?
We're going to raid the drivetrain from a late-model 5-speed Trooper since it already has the proper bell housing, mounts, clutch pedal with hanger/master cylinder and any other necessary hardware.

[nfpgasmask]

OK folks,

Now I'm on the 2nd day of driving after my fluid cahnge. The VX is still shifting weird. Its not constantly doing it though. It seems like if I gun it a little off the line, it slams into gear, but if I take it easy, its ok.

My guess is I have too little or too much ATF in there. Im going under shortly to check the levels again and release/add as needed.

Any other tips? I am a little worried now! I'm gonna check the fluid using the above method. But I guess I am still wondering, if I open the fill nut and ATF comes out, does that mean there is too much? I mean, if it is overflowing out the fill hole, do I let it out until it stops and then cap off?

:confused: Bart

[Tone]

If it gushes out when hot, that may too much but I always have some coming out when I cap them.

[rowhard]

'Released fluid', wonder if that was a asia instruction sheet that was translated in India for the English market. I sure we have all had a giggle with some of the instruction sheets with stuff we have had to assemble.

The Note at the bottom of the page about check trans temp with scan tool. Wish the scan gauge that Tone had would do that along with oil temp/press, transfer case temp also.

[Joe_Black]

Bart, be sure to check all your tranny connectors. You may want to disconnect and re-seat each of them to may sure they're clean and properly connected. Also take that opportunity to disconnect your negative battery terminal for about half an hour to reset the ECU as well.

Sounds like perhaps a sensor or parameter isn't being read properly.

[nfpgasmask]

Thanks Joe, I take it the tranny connectors are the cables that are wired up along the crossmember that I had to work around, eh?

I will do the battery disconnect tonight.

Thanks - Bart


Bart, be sure to check all your tranny connectors. You may want to disconnect and re-seat each of them to may sure they're clean and properly connected. Also take that opportunity to disconnect your negative battery terminal for about half an hour to reset the ECU as well.

Sounds like perhaps a sensor or parameter isn't being read properly.

[rowhard]

Question for Joe_Black on the battery disconnect. manager at my local Shucks auto parts store said to reset the ECU, disconnect the battery for 5 minutes then hit the brake pedal 2 times to discharge the capacitor. What do you think?

[etlsport]

i would think just disconnecting the battery for 1/2 hour would do the trick, i disconnected for an hour while i was in class to get rid of a check engine light before i got my scan gauge, also did it on a 97 accord and worked the same. 30 min with no battery = no more lights (until the fault happens again of course) so im guessing that it cleared the computer

[Joe_Black]

Any capacitors within the ECU will not power or back-up anything other than the ECU. So stepping on the brake pedal to activate the brake lights will not drain down the ECU at all.

Impresses the chicks needing help at Pep Boys I imagine though. :p

[rowhard]

Thanks Joe, it seemed a bit like B.S. to me but then I was a wrench bender on jets, not a spark chaser.

[nfpgasmask]

OK, I went under and checked my fluid. I had the above instructions (which I think are still worded really funny) in hand.

I think I was low on fluid. I let the VX idle for about a minute, then went through the shifter at every gear range, each for about 30 secs. Then I crawled under and opened the plug. No fluid came out, so I started pumping. With the VX still running, I kept pumping. I pumped at least 1.5 quarts in and still no fluid coming out. By this time, my neck was cramping badly so I crawled out and shut off the VX. I got up and stretched for about 30 secs and then I heard some fluid trickling out. Sure enough, it was coming out now into the pan. I let it come out for a few more secs and then capped off the fill hole.

Now, from what I can tell, with the VX running, ATF is sucked up into the vehicle's system. When the VX is off, it drains down into the pan. Does that sound right?

I hope I have enough in now and not too much. I mean, how exact is this science?

Man, I wish there was an easier way to check and fill the ATF. What a pain in the @55!

Bart

[Joe_Black]

Trannys are tough when you're not in it from the start, so you have to build a baseline to actually know how much fluid is in there. I've been fiddling with a homebuilt flush tool that would capture and measure what comes out so you could add the same amount back in. It's frustrating to try and make something that's easy to build, easy to understand, user friendly and light on the wallet.

In any case, welcome to the "4L30E Club". We're a grumpy bunch, and deservedly so! :p

Hopefully the additional volume of fluid will take care of the hard shifts.

[nfpgasmask]

Thanks for all your help throughout this Joe, and everyone else too.

It is very frustrating, mainly because I want to be confident enough to do work on my VX at home, to save money AND to make sure she is properly taken care of. However, it was an experience like this that leaves me saying to myself, "What the h3ll and I doing?".

Anyway, now I understand 100% more why my buddy was surprised at the "no dipstick" issue. I really hope I am in the clear now. The last thing I want to do is burn up my tranny this weekend.

Uggg.

Bart



Trannys are tough when you're not in it from the start, so you have to build a baseline to actually know how much fluid is in there. I've been fiddling with a homebuilt flush tool that would capture and measure what comes out so you could add the same amount back in. It's frustrating to try and make something that's easy to build, easy to understand, user friendly and light on the wallet.

In any case, welcome to the "4L30E Club". We're a grumpy bunch, and deservedly so! :p

Hopefully the additional volume of fluid will take care of the hard shifts.

[AREA 51]

By this time, my neck was cramping badly so I crawled out and shut off the VX. I got up and stretched for about 30 secs and then I heard some fluid trickling out. Sure enough, it was coming out now into the pan. I let it come out for a few more secs and then capped off the fill hole.


Bart


If you don't have it RUNNING when you check it you're still low.

[nfpgasmask]

If you don't have it RUNNING when you check it you're still low.

OK, so, I need to have the VX running idle in PARK, and then pump fluid in until it comes out? Wow, I guess I better buy another couple quarts.

This morning she shifted much better, so I know I got more fluid in. I guess I will need to get under there again.

Thanks - Bart

[Jolly Roger VX'er]

Here we go:
Tranny filter - part number 8-96015-062-0 ($84.89) (price was accurate as of several years ago when I've purchased)

Just placed my order for an OEM Transmission filter (listed as strainer asm) from ISUZU dealer at a cost of $82.19; however, they said the gasket was NOT included and I had to order that too at a cost of $17.81.

Transmission "strainer asm" part number 8-96015-062-0 ($82.19)
Gasket part number 8-96014-234-0 ($17.81)

[Jolly Roger VX'er]

[QUOTE=Joe_Black
Since you're planning on dropping the pan you may want to get your hands on a torque wrench as it's real easy to strip or break the pan bolts. One or two isn't critical, but it will annoy you to no end.[/QUOTE]

Anybody have the correct torque spec for the pan bolts as well as the cross member bolts?

I'm searching away for this but haven't stumbled on it yet!

[Tone]

Ouch! Aftermarket filters with gaskets are $20 here.

All torque specs should be on the Workshop CD...

[Jolly Roger VX'er]

Ouch! Aftermarket filters with gaskets are $20 here.

All torque specs should be on the Workshop CD...

yeah...I had read that the aftermarket filters came with cork gaskets and I was hoping to get a better gasket (neoprene ?) that wouldn't be crumpled up.

I was hoping for a better gasket (neoprene?) and thought by ordering the OEM filter I would GET the better gasket although at a much higher price.

Low & behold when I get to the dealer I find you have to pay extra for the gasket.....I should have probably said no thanks but I had the little voice say just eat it this time......so I did.....I'm still chew'in ;)

I'm figuring next time I'll buy an aftermarket filter (thinking Purolator from Pep Boys) and if the gasket that comes with it is cork and the OEM one turns out to be (neoprene ?), I'll just buy the OEM gasket from the dealer.

Live & Learn.

[Joe_Black]

Anybody have the correct torque spec for the pan bolts as well as the cross member bolts?

I'm searching away for this but haven't stumbled on it yet!
If I can remember I'll look it up in the shop manual as I've got to research some stuff tomorrow for a Trooper owner.

[Joe_Black]

Anybody have the correct torque spec for the pan bolts as well as the cross member bolts?

I'm searching away for this but haven't stumbled on it yet!
Here ya go:

Transmission pan bolt torque - 11 Nm or 96 lb. in.

Crossmember bolt torque - 50 Nm or 37 lb. ft.

[Jolly Roger VX'er]

Here ya go:

Transmission pan bolt torque - 11 Nm or 96 lb. in.

Crossmember bolt torque - 50 Nm or 37 lb. ft.


Thanks Joe! I never got around to downloading the VX workshop CD because I'm stuck with dial-up internet and figured it would take me the rest of my life to complete the download :p

I REALLY gotta get a satellite internet provider as all other options simply aren't available out here in the boonies!

[Ldub]

Do you still have to crank a handle on the side of your tell-e-fone and ask "Sarah" to get Barney on the phone ?, or are you using the "two juice cans on a string" system... :p

My DSL connection comes in on the phone line...how far out in the sticks ARE you anyway ??? :confused:

All kidding aside, I can sympathise with your frustration. I used to live so far "up the road" that there was no cable & no water or sewer.
Got all our water from a cistern that the house gutters drained into.

Sorry I got so far off topic. :mad:

[Joe_Black]

Thanks Joe! I never got around to downloading the VX workshop CD because I'm stuck with dial-up internet and figured it would take me the rest of my life to complete the download :p

I REALLY gotta get a satellite internet provider as all other options simply aren't available out here in the boonies!
LOL, I'm sure if you asked nicely and PM'd an address either I or some other kind VXer would send you a copy in its very own envelope to your very door. :p