DIY Oil Change process

[nfpgasmask]

OK folks, for those DIY experts, can you tell me if this is about right for an oil change process?

1) Open drain plug and drain all the oil

2) Remove oil filter

3) Close drain plug and install new oil filter

4) Fill engine with fresh oil

5) Change air filter

Does that sound about right? I know this is a simple process, but I've not done it myself yet. I don't wanna miss any steps. Any tips/tricks are also welcome. I have all the tools/supplies ready, and all I need now is a new air filter and oil filter (any suggestions on good brands to look for?). Also, about how many quarts will fill me up after a change?

Thanks! Bart

[VCrossfan]

Sent to me by a friend...Girl of course


Oil Change instructions for women:

1) Pull up to Jiffy Lube when the mileage reaches 3000 miles since
the last oil change.
2) Drink a cup of coffee.
3) 15 minutes later, write a check and leave with a properly
maintained vehicle.

Money spent:
Oil Change $20.00
Coffee $1.00
Total $21.00



Oil Change instructions for men:
1) Wait until Saturday, drive to Auto Zone parts store and buy a case of oil, filter, kitty litter, hand cleaner and a scented tree, write a check for $50.00.
2) Stop by 7 - 11 and buy a case of beer, write a check for $20, drive home.
3) Open a beer and drink it.
4) Jack car up. Spend 30 minutes looking for jack stands.
5) Find jack stands under kid's pedal car.
6) In frustration, open another beer and drink it.
7) Place drain pan under engine.
8) Look for 9/16 box end wrench.
9) Give up and use crescent wrench.
10) Unscrew drain plug.
11) Drop drain plug in pan of hot oil: splash hot oil on you in process. Cuss.
12) Crawl out from under car to wipe hot oil off of face and arms. Throw kitty litter on spilled oil.
13) Have another beer while watching oil drain.
14) Spend 30 minutes looking for oil filter wrench.
15) Give up; crawl under car and hammer a screwdriver through oil filter and twist off.
16) Crawl out from under car with dripping oil filter splashing oil everywhere from holes. Cleverly hide old oil filter among trash in trash can to avoid environmental penalties. Drink a beer.
17) Buddy shows up; finish case of beer with him. Decide to finish oil change tomorrow so you can go see his new garage door opener.
18) Sunday: Skip church because "I gotta finish the oil change." Drag pan full of old oil out from underneath car. Cleverly dump oil in hole in back yard instead of taking it back toservice station to recycle.
19) Throw kitty litter on oil spilled during step 18.
20) Beer? No, drank it all yesterday.
21) Walk to 7-11; buy beer.
22) Install new oil filter making sure to apply a thin coat of oil to gasket surface, be sure filter is full of oil.
23) Dump first quart of fresh oil into engine.
24) Remember drain plug from step 11.
25) Hurry to find drain plug in drain pan.
26) Remember that the used oil is buried in a hole in the back yard, along with drain plug.
27) Drink beer.
28) Shovel out hole and sift oily mud for drain plug. Re-shovel oily dirt into hole. Steal sand from kids sandbox to cleverly cover oily patch of ground and avoid environmental penalties. Wash drain plug in lawnmower gas.
29) Discover that first quart of fresh oil is now on the floor. Throw kitty litter on oil spill.
30) Drink beer.
31) Crawl under car getting kitty litter into eyes. Wipe eyes with oily rag used to clean drain plug. Slip with stupid crescent wrench tightening drain plug and bang knuckles on frame.
32) Bang head on floorboards in reaction to step 31.
33) Begin cussing fit.
34) Throw stupid crescent wrench.
35) Cuss for additional 10 minutes because wrench hit bowling trophy.
36) Beer.
37) Clean up hands and forehead and bandage as required to stop blood flow.
38) Beer.
39) Beer.
40) Dump in five fresh quarts of oil.
41) Beer.
42) Lower car from jack stands.
43) Accidentally crush remaining case of new motor oil.
44) Move car back to apply more kitty litter to fresh oil spilled during steps 23 - 43.
45) Beer.
46) Test drive car.
47) Get pulled over: arrested for driving under the influence.
48) Car gets impounded.
49) Call loving wife, make bail
50) 12 hours later, get car from impound yard.

Money spent:
Parts $50.00
DUI $2500.00
Impound fee $75.00
Bail $1500.00
Beer $40.00
Total - - $4,165.00

But you know the job was done right!

[Joe_Black]

Pretty much, but omit step 5 for the air filter. You should change your air filter about every 10K miles unless you're using a K&N, in which case you would wash and re-oil. They're guaranteed for a million miles.

Also, a good rule is to replace your PCV valve every other oil change. They're cheap at less than $4 each, and when they fail is what causes excessive oil consumption in most engines. Since I use the Mobil-1 M104 oil filter I'll order them 5 at a time from www.autozone.com and always get a handful of PCV valves too.

[etlsport]

when i changed my oil, i opened the oil cap in the engine while i was draining, maybe it was my imagination, but i think it helped the oil drain faster, i also jacked up the rear passenger wheel off the ground w/ the stock bottle jack to make sure the plug was by far the lowest point in the oil pan to be sure i got all the oil out. i had some trouble gettin my oil filter off, used a mousepad to help (the bottoms of the old style mousepads are really sticky, so it helps grip the filter, plus provides some protection from the heat if your engine has been running recently

id also change out the PVC valve while youre at it, its cheap and easy, even if it doesnt need to be done, better safe than sorry

make sure youve got a good wrench to get the oil plug off, mine was a huge pain, and my adjustable wrench wouldnt cut it, so i had to go buy a 22mm wrench and that took it off with no problem good luck!

if you run into any trouble you can always shoot me an IM on AIM.. im usually pretty easily reached there (etlsport)

[Ldub]

The "Other" first step should be to warm up the oil (like driving to autozone) so any particulate matter and/or gunk is in suspension when you drain the oil.
I doubt taking off the fill cap makes it drain much faster, I've never tried it, but it still drains almost too fast & has a tendency to splash off the side of the drain pan.
The breather tube located next to the filler allows more than enough air in through the intake.
My two cents.

[nfpgasmask]

OK guys, thanks for the tips. I'm gonna do the PCV for sure. I did it last oil change and I will order some more when I order the oil filters.

So, JoeBlack, the Mobile 1 oil filters are good then?

Thanks everyone,

Bart

[Joe_Black]

So, JoeBlack, the Mobile 1 oil filters are good then?
I hate to say so, just because they're Mobil-1 which makes me look like a major nut :p , but there's no paper or cotton gin waste in there like all the other filters. Pretty much built like a Wix XL commercial truck filter: all synthetic fibers. Excellent filtration and I've been using them in several vehicles since they came out with fantastic results.

[nfpgasmask]

Cool, I will try to find these around here or just order them from AutoZone.

Thanks - Bart


I hate to say so, just because they're Mobil-1 which makes me look like a major nut :p , but there's no paper or cotton gin waste in there like all the other filters. Pretty much built like a Wix XL commercial truck filter: all synthetic fibers. Excellent filtration and I've been using them in several vehicles since they came out with fantastic results.

[nfpgasmask]

So, VCrossfan, you gonna drive up for a Chicago meet? Or are you too far south?

Bart

[IndianaVX]

if you are going synthetic, i would replace a quart of oil with a quart of lucas synthetic oil stablizer, and then 4 quarts of oil. and dont forget to put oil in the new filter befor putting it on. pour some oil in the filter, swirl it around for a minute, and then pour some more in there, swirl, and then install. some oil will come out when you put it up there , but its not completly dry. hope that makes sense.
dave

[nfpgasmask]

Hey Dave, yeah, I am fully Mobile-1. I did a flush and switched to Mobile-1 synth right after I bought it in May 2006.

I have done a second oil change since then with Mobile-1 and that is what I will be using when I do it on my own from now on.

What does the Lucas Synthetic Oil Stablizer do for me? I don't think this was added when I had the oil changed the last 2 times....

Thanks for the tip about the filter.

Bart


if you are going synthetic, i would replace a quart of oil with a quart of lucas synthetic oil stablizer, and then 4 quarts of oil. and dont forget to put oil in the new filter befor putting it on. pour some oil in the filter, swirl it around for a minute, and then pour some more in there, swirl, and then install. some oil will come out when you put it up there , but its not completly dry. hope that makes sense.
dave

[IndianaVX]

the stablizer adds even more lubricity to the oil, allows the oil to maintain a better "film" on lubricated parts so that eleminates the "dry start" issues. reduces internal friction between parts, for even more power. it also allows the oil to span better between parts. great stuff. use it in the diffs also.
plus, when you support lucas oil, you are supporting our awsome indianapolis colts, and the retractable roof, but dont let this keep you from using the product, it really is a great product...lol

[Joe_Black]

What does the Lucas Synthetic Oil Stablizer do for me?
It doesn't do squat for you, but it sure does fatten Lucas' coffers. It's made from 100% pure snake oil.

[kpaske]

I've been using Mobil-1 synth oil and filters for a while now and they seem to work really well, so Joe's not the only major nut around here ;Db;. My oil consumption is actually a lot lower now than when I was running AMSOil Series 2000, which is supposedly a better product, but for the VX I think it was too thin.

I believe the most critical factors in maintaining your vehicle are choosing the right oil, changing it regularly at appropriate intervals, and most importantly with the VX, keeping it topped off between changes which means checking your oil level every time you fuel up (or every two hours, whichever comes first ;Db; jk).

When prepping your oil filter, all you really need to do is take a fingertip full of fresh oil and run it around the rubber ring on the filter, and maybe a little in the threads. Pouring oil into the filter before you install it will do nothing for you but make a mess.

[nfpgasmask]

Cool, thanks for the tips. I have been checking my oil very regularly. My VX does burn oil, and I have had to top off once or twice.



When prepping your oil filter, all you really need to do is take a fingertip full of fresh oil and run it around the rubber ring on the filter, and maybe a little in the threads. Pouring oil into the filter before you install it will do nothing for you but make a mess.

OK, I mean, once the oil filter is on, and you fill your engine up, oil will fill the filter at that point, right?

Bart

[Joe_Black]

Pouring oil in the filter prior to installation is unnecessary and messy, especially for side-mount filters like ours. Modern vehicles have the ability to pressurize the oil circuit quickly and with a good deal of volume, so your new filter will be flowing quick. Plus a fair amount of oil will flow into the filter from gravity alone once you refill the engine.

[Jolly Roger VX'er]

Pouring oil in the filter prior to installation is unnecessary and messy, especially for side-mount filters like ours. Modern vehicles have the ability to pressurize the oil circuit quickly and with a good deal of volume, so your new filter will be flowing quick. Plus a fair amount of oil will flow into the filter from gravity alone once you refill the engine.

I'm glad this subject came up; because, just last week I had my local mechanic fix an oil leak on my Monte Carlo Z-34 (3.4L is a royal PITA to work on!). Since it also needed an oil/filter change, I watched him do the above mentioned ritual and wondered to myself about how worthwhile it would be to start doing this when servicing the VX myself?

As for changing oil myself...I've always thought it was important to wipe-off the dirty, old oil with a clean shop towel BEFORE screwing on the "new" filter which has "new" oil spread over the O-ring (seal) on the filter.


****Also, personally I've had good luck with both Mobil 1 oil filters from Autozone and Purolator PureOne oil Filters from Advance Auto. Since neither store carriers both brands, I just get whichever is convienent.

Some interesting reading below:

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html#OilFilters

[Tobert]

Another useful tip I learned growing up:

When you encounter a filter that's on too tight, rather than going immediately for the wrench, do this:

- wrap it with a shop towel to help you grip
- put slow, steady pressure on it - it'll move very slowly

What's happening when you over-crank it on removal is you cause the rubber seal to bunch up and just make it harder. Slow, steady pressure gives the rubber time to reacclimate and slip around. I've had to hold on for minutes before, but have gotten filters off that the 'ole screwdriver trick wouldn't touch.

[nfpgasmask]

Thanks Tob, and what about putting the new filter back on? Just hand tight, right? No Superman tightness needed?

Bart


Another useful tip I learned growing up:

When you encounter a filter that's on too tight, rather than going immediately for the wrench, do this:

- wrap it with a shop towel to help you grip
- put slow, steady pressure on it - it'll move very slowly

What's happening when you over-crank it on removal is you cause the rubber seal to bunch up and just make it harder. Slow, steady pressure gives the rubber time to reacclimate and slip around. I've had to hold on for minutes before, but have gotten filters off that the 'ole screwdriver trick wouldn't touch.

[Joe_Black]

Always hand tight, the gasket will take care of the rest.

If you go with the Mobil-1 filter you'll find them exceedingly easy to remove as they incorporate an actual o-ring instead of a flat gasket.