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etlsport
09/18/2006, 03:14 PM
so i finally got my 6.5" speakers in the rear, took about 8 hours, although i wasnt working straight through, id do a couple hours here, couple there, and was learning as i went along, heres a brief description of how i did it

first... the mission:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/100_0433.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/100_0433.jpg)
I started by removing the top and bottom of the tailgate hatch so that I could remove the panels with storage compartments in them... turns out i didnt need to do that
if i did it again id just remove the panel with the speaker grill in it (it looks like two panels, top and bottom, but they are actually screwed together)

removing the rear grab handle made getting behind the panel much easier, to remove it, i pinched the covers and pulled them towards the outside of the handle, along the panel, then used a small flat screwdriver, slid it under the tip of the cover and twisted the screwdriver, popping the front of the cover off, then slid the cover over the handle, then its just two screws
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/100_0434.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/100_0434.jpg)

then start pulling the panel off starting at the joint of the two panels
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/100_0435.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/100_0435.jpg)

i used a flathead screwdriver wrapped in electrical tape to pry the bottom of the panels apart, then right below the window they are clipped together with a metal fastner, gently pull it apart, then using a plastic knife i pulled the black fastner that holds the top of the panel just over the side rear window, then the panel just pulls out until you hit the front seat belt, which is a pain to remove and unnecessary imho

i started at the top, pulling the top of the panel at the joint of the two rear panels
along the ceiling away from the window, its just two christmas tree fastners, i have an upholstry/door panel removing tool that came in handy, once it was free over the window i slid my hand around behind the panel and gently pried it off and worked my way down around the window, with that you can access the speaker, pull as few fastners as you need, the more you still have in place, the more will be lined up when you go to put it back together
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/100_0439.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/100_0439.jpg)

if you just want to replace the speaker with one the same size, you might not need to remove the speaker mount, since i was modding it, i removed it, just four screws, i used a stubby phillips head screwdriver and reached behind the panel to get the two screws towards the front, but with a little contortion, a normal sized one would work, heres the speaker mount so you can see where the screws are, its upside down in the picture
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/100_0446.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/100_0446.jpg)
then there are two 10mm bolts holding it to the rear most panel, i found using a nutdriver was the easiest way to remove those, once the 4 screws and 2 bolts are removed, the mount should pull out, be sure to disconnect the wires going to the speaker

once the rear speaker mount is out, look along the sheet metal of the vx for any fastners that are left in the sheet metal, remove them (i used the upholstry remover tool, but a flathead screwdriver should work too) and put them back onto the panel, they are easy to put back on, just slide them in place on the panel, look at one thats still in the panel for an example if you arent sure

i used a piece of cardboard to make a pattern for the hole needed to mount the new speakers then with a sharpie traced the pattern onto the rear speaker mount, then used an angle grinder to cut the hole, i used the bottom of the stock hole as the very bottom of the new one, so that the magnet of the speaker would be as high as possible, even so the magnet came very close to the wheel well, i used shallow mount door speakers that made it easier
then drilled holes for the new speaker and mounted it
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/100_0448.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/100_0448.jpg)
after a test fit in the car, i realized the tweeter stuck out of the speaker too far and was hitting the back of the speaker grill, so i used a pair of dykes to cut off the rear frame that stuck out off the grill, that gave me just enough clearance

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/100_0440.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/100_0440.jpg)

once you know the speaker will fit, connect the wires, line it up and attach the four screws, line up the bolts and put them in, once thats all done, pull on the rearmost panel to make sure the bolts caught, it took me a couple times to get them in right

putting the rear panel on took a lot of patience, it was much easier when i didnt remove the seat belt, if you do remove the seat belt, make sure that the front of that panel goes around the door jamb, then starting in the front, gently push the panel back into place, i used the workshop CD from tone to figure out exactly where all of the clips were so id know where to push into place, once i got the middle of the panel in place, i did the top piece that extends over the side rear window, you have to push it upwards towards the ceiling and pulled away from the window to make sure the fastners make it to the bump out where they fasten

dont force the panel too much or you will break the clips, if the panel doesnt want to push back into place, look behind it and see where you are missing, then move the panel to fix the problem

once all the clips were back into place, i put a small strip of insulation tape between the panels where the adhesive was to prevent rattling, then pushed the velcro at the bottom of the panel back into place, put the grab handle back on, making sure to line up the tabs next to the screws with the proper holes then the fastner over the rear window

overall, i didnt think the project was extremely difficult, just took a lot of patience and making sure everything lined up correctly

if anyone has anythin to add, or questions to ask, feel free

Corrosive
09/18/2006, 05:52 PM
Awesome Write-up! I have been wanting to do this for some time now but have been scared... this just gave me the balls! Thanks
-Mike

Mark B
09/19/2006, 08:32 AM
I have got to do my rear speakers. Hopefully your post will make it easier.

iamjacksadrenalgland
09/19/2006, 09:17 AM
nice write-up! what do you have planned for upgrading signal/power and for the front speakers?

etlsport
09/19/2006, 10:55 AM
i replaced the fronts with the same 6.5" speakers as i put in the rear, right now i have a kenwood cd/mp3 player in there, as soon as i make it to the store to get a wiring kit, ive got a rockford ravdvd1 to replace it, plays cd/mp3/dvd, it doesnt have regular speaker outputs though, just RCA outs, so im installing a 400w 4 channel amp under the drivers seat (already mounted) to power the speakers, im still debating on subs, ive got a pair of 8's to go in.. but dont really want to lose the space or lose my spare tire

etlsport
09/24/2006, 08:47 PM
got some pics of the progress on the audio system

front speakers 6.5"
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/5.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/5.jpg)

4 channel 400 watt amp located under drivers seat powers all speakers in stock locations
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/32.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/32.jpg)
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/22.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/22.jpg)

wiring the DVD player.. wires EVERYWHERE.. got very tedious.. but its all back together now (except the cd changer slot.. monitor comes tomorrow)

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/12.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/12.jpg)

pbkid
09/25/2006, 07:22 AM
etlsport, just make sure you have enough room under the seat for the front seat to move all the way forward, i had to remove insulation and bend up some of the parts of the seat for mine to fit like that....

WormGod
09/25/2006, 08:15 AM
If there is anything I have learned from working with the rear speakers in the VX, its that they are not fun. 90% of the work is removal and replacement of the interior panels. I seriously hope I NEVER have to deal with mine again, heh. I suggest Dynamatting the entire rear once you have the panels out just so that you can try to secure never having to tear it down again. Would be so much easier were the panels broken down even more into multiple pieces.

SPAZZ
09/25/2006, 03:15 PM
and dual optimas in the engine bay to run auxillary powerand 400 watt amp & Warn XD9000 WINCH :eek: :eek: :eek: )

etlsport
09/25/2006, 05:45 PM
yeah.. those rear panels are a #$#%^ when i installed the amp i decided i needed to run all new speaker wires... and like a dummy i mounted the rear speakers with the terminals down... so the whole assembly had to come out to connect new wires... but it sounds awesome, love having dolby digital in the car!

pbkid.. thanks for the warning, i actually ran into the problem of the amp being too small, the RCA plugs stuck out too far, so they caught on the hump there while the amp sunk down into the little valley there, so i put a piece of mdf board to raise it up just over the hump, so now when the front seat is all the way forward, the rcas stick out just over the hump and just under the metal piece on the back of the seat.. it really looks like the amp was made to fit right there,

new challenge is getting my monitor in the CD changer slot, SHOULD be an easy task, but the monitor i bought doesnt have the right screw holes to attach the stock brackets to it.. on the plus side i did plug it all in and its puuuurdy

etlsport
10/08/2006, 04:06 PM
I'm happy to say the sound system is... ::::gasp::::: (almost) done! got the monitor installed in the upper portion of the dash.. didnt like the way it looked, the top of the dash prevented the monitor angle from being adjusted, so i set the monitor to reverse the image vertically, the mounted it in the slot upside down, only problem is the clock/writing on the face of the monitor, so i will be taking some black vinyl and covering the whole face of it, then getting one of those VehiCROSS stickers from ebay and putting it on the face of the monitor... should look sexy!

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/000_0010.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/000_0010.jpg)
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/000_0003.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/000_0003.jpg)
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/000_0009.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/000_0009.jpg)

Triathlete
10/08/2006, 05:51 PM
That monitor would not work here...it covers the vital a/c vents!

etlsport
10/08/2006, 05:59 PM
haha, yeah, i was a little worried about that.. but figured i wouldnt be watching too video as i drove anyway.. also that i could just leave it up at first til i got everything cooled down, then once the temp is okay rely on the side vents to keep the temp stable

Hotsauce
10/08/2006, 06:54 PM
You may need to remove the flap on the rear of the underside of the seat if you put an amp under there. Just drill off the spotwelds.

John C.

etlsport
10/08/2006, 07:22 PM
nah, the amp is small enough that it fits into that well under the seat, the metal flap doesnt make it quite to the amp, if the seat is all the way forward to the most extreme forward position, the RCAs stick out under the flap because i raised the amp up off the floor just enough that they fit over the floor and under the flap

MZ-N10
10/09/2006, 01:13 AM
nah, the amp is small enough that it fits into that well under the seat, the metal flap doesnt make it quite to the amp, if the seat is all the way forward to the most extreme forward position, the RCAs stick out under the flap because i raised the amp up off the floor just enough that they fit over the floor and under the flap


lucky, i had to trim some of the flap off to fit my amp. nice install btw.

etlsport
11/30/2006, 08:27 PM
okay, well i finally got around to updating my how-to on rear speaker installation/upgrading/rear panel removal... i decided it was much easier to remove all the panels instead of just the one with the speaker in it, so i gave a 'quick' description on how to remove the other panels as well.. any feedback/more advice would be appreciated as im certainly no expert on the subject, im sure i missed one or two things

http://www.vehicross.info/modules.php?name=Content&file=viewarticle&id=25

WormGod
12/01/2006, 08:46 AM
I noticed your amp is under your driver's seat.... no overheating issues there? I had my amp installed under my driver's seat in my Amigo and even though it had built in fans, it would overheat occasionally. Lack of air flow and the fllorboards tended to get hot and the carpeting allowed the heat to stick around. Moving it to the rear of the car remedied any and all overheating. Had any issues with heat under the seat since your install?

etlsport
12/01/2006, 09:09 AM
nope, havent had any issues with overheating, i was worried that the heat from the floor would cause me heat problems, so i put in a sheet of 5/8" MDF under the amp (which also lifted it up out of the well which im guessing would retain a lot of heat and made running wires to it easier since it sat up a little higher),,ive run it as long as 5 hours at a time with no issues

kpaske
12/01/2006, 09:24 AM
I noticed your amp is under your driver's seat.... no overheating issues there? I had my amp installed under my driver's seat in my Amigo and even though it had built in fans, it would overheat occasionally. Lack of air flow and the fllorboards tended to get hot and the carpeting allowed the heat to stick around. Moving it to the rear of the car remedied any and all overheating.How hard you're driving the amp also makes a huge difference in how hot it gets. I drive my front amp really hard - any time the volume is over about 60%, it starts to get pretty hot. My sub amp, on the other hand, is almost always cool-to-room-temperature.

I had originally planned to mount my front amp under the seat, but it was too big. In retrospect, I'm glad I didn't because it probably would overheat. A less powerful or more efficient amp might not have the same heat issues.

etlsport
12/01/2006, 09:30 AM
yea, that probably contributes to my amp not heating up, ive only got the gain on it turned up maybe 40-50%, and its loud enough that i cant stand being in the car when its turned up.. past about 50% on the head unit... and ive yet to hear even a hint of distortion... love it!!

etlsport
12/07/2006, 07:21 AM
where did you guys end up putting your amps that they wouldnt overheat? i just ordered my new amp for my subs (an 80watt rms per channel upgrade) and well its bigger than i thought, so looks like it will not be fitting under the passenger seat like id planned, it is still only about 2-1/2" thick, but too wide to clear all the levers and such under the seat

kpaske
12/07/2006, 08:27 AM
My sub amp is mounted to my sub box, inside the rear door. Excellent airflow there because it's entirely open. My front amp is currently just sitting on the floor behind the passenger seat - one of these days I'll be building a raised floor / amp rack behind both seats.

etlsport
12/07/2006, 08:47 AM
thats my thought.. building a raised floor there and mounting it to the underside of that(i want all amps/wiring hidden, only speakers showing).. will need to put a small fan down there to keep air going though, my biggest problem with that is losing the ability to recline the seats.. hmm

WormGod
12/07/2006, 09:34 AM
Currently, I just have a free standing Isobaric box behind the rear seats and the amps are mounted to the box. Space is pretty limited in the rear for sub mounting unless you actually build something in the rear that still grants easy access. I cant say I much care about heavy systems anymore though. As long as my iPod can plug in, I am happy.