Transmission stuck in 2nd

[VehiGator]

When the vehi is at a complete stop and I begin to give it gas, it takes ALOT of gas to get it going, but after that, seems to run fine. I feel like its stuck in 2nd gear, but not sure. Dropped it off at a local little transmission shop today and will see what/if they recommend anything. Wondering if that was the right thing to do, or if its something else common, switch or regulator of some sort? Hmmm.. Any suggestions?

[etlsport]

sounds like your winter mode might be engaging itself? have you checked the lights on the dash when you are taking off to see if it is engaged?

[VehiGator]

Yes, I verified the lights, and even pressed the winter mode button to make sure it was operable (it lit up when pressed and then went off when depressed.) Thanks for the idea though.

[nfpgasmask]

Is it shifting hard or smooth? Could be something simple like needing a trans fluid and filter change...have you had this done?

Bart

[VehiGator]

Well, the transmission was definitely shot. So I decided to have it rebuilt and back on its feet (err, tires) in no time. Love my Vehi! Thanks everyone for your ideas.

[Green Mamba]

Sorry to hear you had to spring for a full rebuilt, but now is good as new.

Just curious, at what mileage did your tranny go?

Thanks,

[Nazrat]

And what is the quote to rebuild?

-Tad

[thedutchguy]

I heard Isuzu cut corners when sourcing for the auto trans.
It seems this transmission is a bit on the "light side "for a 3.5 V6 engine!
So I'm surprised not more of the users on this forum encounter transmission problems.

[RicksVX]

Hello!

Geez, I bought my VX in June with 40k miles. It seems lately I've read a lot of concern about the 3.5 motor. There is extensive chat about the longevity of the engine and various ways to avoid problems, most noteably of late, using Diesel engine oil ("Avaliable synthetic Diesel oil rated SJ/SL C*-4 5W-40 are: Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck and SUV 5W-40; Shell Rotella synthetic 5W-40 $15/gallon at Walmart) due to high detergent content that helps keep oil passages clear. This is from the Planetisuzu forums. I have begun using an additive called Militec (http://www.militec1.com) since it has not received any bad reviews by the FTC.

Anyway, I had the transmission serviced yesterday at 45k miles. The fellow indicated about 1/4" coating of metal particles stuck to the magnet in the pan and estimated about 25k miles to a rebuild of $1200 to $1700, depending on damage at time of failure. He said usually these die with some warning. He said they are a pretty weak unit, made in France and a prior version with the same diameter clutch packs was originally installed in the Chevrolet Vega. He works on Honda Passports and Isuzu Rodeos often, having just done 3 in his shop. He recommended against using Synthetic in an automatic transmission for two reasons: firstly, the regular fluid cannot be totally removed and it is not good to mix the two and secondly, the transmissions are designed to work with a certain friction coefficient and making things more slippery may lead to slippage (and heat). He said synthetics are great for transfer cases and differentials. He also recommended against the inline filter due to a potential back pressure issue.

I am glad that I do not see too many postings about the transmission and I have to console myself in that everything wears out eventually. I had a Chysler van and put a tranny in it every 3 years, did two valve jobs and installed a rebuilt motor, drove it for 9 years. Just a cost of operation, I guess.

Rick

[Triathlete]

Seems to me the tranny is plenty up to the task. There are several on this board who rally their VXs and even more of us that thrash them off road. I use mine off road and as most will agree I do not baby it. I have had no problems with the tranny and have only seen a few post on here regarding tranny problems.
Oh yeah...I also have over 100,000 miles on mine!

[Solitude]

My tranny went out last summer with about 25K on it. thank god for the 10/120k warnenty.. the VX would clunk at stop lights when letting off the brake.. and one day just put it in gear and the next thing that happened was GRIND>>>> new tranny works good.. but it doesnt let up when I coast.. seems to drag motor down.. not sure if thats good or not.. since last tranny didnt drag.. but then again.. it was not working right..

btw.. overdrive is what failed in mine and what caused the "catastrophic transmission failure"

[nfpgasmask]

I serviced my tranny at 28k. The magnet was a little dirty, but not bad at all. The fluid however was totally burnt. Shifting was really harsch prior to changing the fluid and filter on my VX, and after things have been swell. I also did use Mobile-1 Synthetic ATF. I have not had any slipping issues. I hope the synthetic fluid in there is ok to use.

Bart




Hello!

Geez, I bought my VX in June with 40k miles. It seems lately I've read a lot of concern about the 3.5 motor. There is extensive chat about the longevity of the engine and various ways to avoid problems, most noteably of late, using Diesel engine oil ("Avaliable synthetic Diesel oil rated SJ/SL C*-4 5W-40 are: Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck and SUV 5W-40; Shell Rotella synthetic 5W-40 $15/gallon at Walmart) due to high detergent content that helps keep oil passages clear. This is from the Planetisuzu forums. I have begun using an additive called Militec (http://www.militec1.com) since it has not received any bad reviews by the FTC.

Anyway, I had the transmission serviced yesterday at 45k miles. The fellow indicated about 1/4" coating of metal particles stuck to the magnet in the pan and estimated about 25k miles to a rebuild of $1200 to $1700, depending on damage at time of failure. He said usually these die with some warning. He said they are a pretty weak unit, made in France and a prior version with the same diameter clutch packs was originally installed in the Chevrolet Vega. He works on Honda Passports and Isuzu Rodeos often, having just done 3 in his shop. He recommended against using Synthetic in an automatic transmission for two reasons: firstly, the regular fluid cannot be totally removed and it is not good to mix the two and secondly, the transmissions are designed to work with a certain friction coefficient and making things more slippery may lead to slippage (and heat). He said synthetics are great for transfer cases and differentials. He also recommended against the inline filter due to a potential back pressure issue.

I am glad that I do not see too many postings about the transmission and I have to console myself in that everything wears out eventually. I had a Chysler van and put a tranny in it every 3 years, did two valve jobs and installed a rebuilt motor, drove it for 9 years. Just a cost of operation, I guess.

Rick

[nfpgasmask]

Hmmm, that's scary, cause mine clunks when I come to a stop too, but only when I am stopping abruptly from speed, like when I am going 50 down a hill and the light turns red at the bottom and I have to stop hard. Then I hear the tranny clunk, and then it clunks again when I let up off the brake. I just attributed this to the brakes locking up and my tranny shifting back into 1st after the harsh stop. I never thought it was a problem, always kinda assumed it was normal for the VX shifts to be a little clunky????

Bart


My tranny went out last summer with about 25K on it. thank god for the 10/120k warnenty.. the VX would clunk at stop lights when letting off the brake.. and one day just put it in gear and the next thing that happened was GRIND>>>> new tranny works good.. but it doesnt let up when I coast.. seems to drag motor down.. not sure if thats good or not.. since last tranny didnt drag.. but then again.. it was not working right..

btw.. overdrive is what failed in mine and what caused the "catastrophic transmission failure"

[etlsport]

i get that clunk after an abrupt stop as well, i assumed it was just the trans getting back into the right gear after stopping so suddenly

[Solitude]

the new tranny does clink also... but things feel different... but it is new..