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Thread: High idle question

  1. #1
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    High idle question

    My car has had this problem for years now and its finally getting worse.

    This only used to happen sometimes. I would start my car and drive to work (about 30 miles ) no problem but onece i got off the highway (mind you ithis may have started on the highway but i wouldnt notice since i was doing normal speed with no stops) my car would pull like if i was giving it gass so i put it in nutral and my rpms would be like 3,000. Now if i let it sit for a minute or 2 this would go back down to 1,000 and not happen again. This would happen every so often for the past year or 2. now its happening more often on my way to work and home, and now even if i let the car sit for a minute or 2 and it stops onece i start to drive again it happens again.

    its hard to bring it to a mechanic and find the problem since when i get out of the car and get the mechanic the problem has stoped. I was told some cars have a idle control valve, does ours? also i was looking at the cd manual and found a throtel position sensor . could this be the cause, does anyone know where this is?

    please help

    adam

  2. #2
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    Yup- sensor is going out and the mechanic probably won't physically see the problem unless you leave out at their place over night and he (she) fires it up from a cold start. I had the same problem and I'll caution as to what happens next. Soon, on a cold start, you'll not be able to keep the RPM up high enough to prevent a stall. I had to drive home a few days ago with one foot on the brake & one on the gas to prevent stalling during slow downs & stops. Brought it to Isuzu mech and their computer discovered I had 3 different sensors that were failing. Replaced all 3 (althought only 1 really needed immed attention) & had oil changed..... for a discomforting $500.
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    Last edited by geshaw30 : 03/30/2011 at 07:33 PM

  3. #3
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    even though my problem is the opposite , my idle is high not low?

  4. #4
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    Mine started out, weeks earlier, the same way Adam...unexpected high rev then it simply settled itself down. It didn't happen often enough that I felt I needed to deal with the issue. Mistake. The sensor problem then went the opposite direction once cold weather set in and it happened immediately; there was no slow progression that I could see coming.
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    Last edited by geshaw30 : 03/30/2011 at 07:33 PM

  5. #5
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    Check the M.A.F. sensor. I had the same problem with my escort. If i shut it off and restarted it would be fine. shawn
    1COOLVX

  6. #6
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    Zadam, more than likely your ICV just needs to be taken off and cleaned. I have had similar issues, cleaned the ICV and delicately cleaned the MAF sensor, problem solved. Any electronics safe spray cleaner should be fine.
    "You can live your life in a thousand ways,
    but it all comes down to that single day,
    when you realize what you regret,
    but you cant relaim and you cant forget."
    ----Trans Siberian Orchestra

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ruflyf
    Zadam, more than likely your ICV just needs to be taken off and cleaned. I have had similar issues, cleaned the ICV and delicately cleaned the MAF sensor, problem solved. Any electronics safe spray cleaner should be fine.
    can you tell me where the ICV is and what it looks like please

    thanks

  8. #8
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    Its located on the intake on the same side as the throttle cable. Its got a electrical plug.

  9. #9
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    It is an IAC . I would start by cleaning the MAF sensor . shawn

  10. #10
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    Idle control valve is located on the throttle body and is held in by 2 small torx. Remove and clean opening and plunger with carb cleaner. George, glad you got it fixed but I think they did the shotgun approach replacing three sensors - can you look at the invoice and post the part numbers and descriptions?

  11. #11
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    Sure Tone-
    (1) 8-17112-649-0...Idle Air Control ------$80.90
    (1) 8-17106-680-0...Sensor (no descrip)---$89.19
    (1) 8-15326-386-0...Sensor; Eng Co-------$34.85
    5550.................CPCI-----------------$249.20

    "Cause: Codes for TP,IAC,and Coolant Temp Sensor Malfunction"

    "74020 Codes for TP, IAC, Coolant Temp Sensor malfunction 2.80. Replaced sticking Idle Air Control Valve. Replaced Throttle Position Sensor due to having a internal short. Replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor for being out of range. Cleared the PCM of all codes and releared the Idle Control System due to replacing the IAC Valve".

    Parts=$227.59 (not incl oil change mat)
    Labor=$255.50
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    Last edited by geshaw30 : 03/30/2011 at 07:34 PM

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by geshaw30
    Yup- sensor is going out and the mechanic probably won't physically see the problem unless you leave out at their place over night and he (she) fires it up from a cold start. I had the same problem and I'll caution as to what happens next. Soon, on a cold start, you'll not be able to keep the RPM up high enough to prevent a stall. I had to drive home a few days ago with one foot on the brake & one on the gas to prevent stalling during slow downs & stops. Brought it to Isuzu mech and their computer discovered I had 3 different sensors that were failing. Replaced all 3 (althought only 1 really needed immed attention) & had oil changed..... for a discomforting $500.
    man you must have ginxed me. today after work i tried to start my car and all it did was stall, drove it to autozone (about 5 minute drive and had to give gass and brake at the same time) and had them give me check engine codes

    got these codes

    p0507
    the pcm has determined that the engine rpm is highter than expected for the currant engine operating conditions

    p1509
    idle control system circute shorted

    p0101
    the pcm has determined that there is a discrepancy between the actual mas air flow input and the calculated mass air flow input derived from the input gathered from other sensors IE thortal position sensor, barometric pressure sensor ECI

    they told me that if i buy the idle air control valve that this should solve the problem, so i bought it, was going to fix it there but i didnt have a star tool to change it so i drove about 5 minutes to my parents house and was about to change it when i realised that the problem stoped. car ran better than ever , what the heck is going on.

    I did a test at my parents house i took off the plug for the idle air control valve to see if it stalled like before but it didnt, now im thinking this is not the problem, could it be?

    geshaw30 when you had this problem did this happen even when you car was warmed up or only when you started it, You said you had to drive home but when you got there was the problem still happening. I emaild you with my number , please call me

    thanks
    adam
    Last edited by zadam123 : 01/16/2007 at 03:47 PM

  13. #13
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    I have found that inconsistant problems are usually due to dirt rather than part malfunction. CLEAN IT FIRST, unless you just like spending money, if it doesnt work than it didnt cost you anything to find out.

    Also disconnect your battery for 30 mins

  14. #14
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    well the problem starting the car went away, have no idea why. But the problem i was having with the high rmp still was there so since i bought the idle air control valve i thought i would install it to see if that was the problem.

    after 2 years of dealing with this problem i am happy to anounce no more idle problem. car runs like new.

    thanks for all your help

    adam

  15. #15
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    I'd still have someone do a computer check on the sensor(s) and/or valve cleaning Adam just to be sure. I don't think the situation is gonna fix itself- you might be on borrowed time. I hope not but better safe than sorry
    IMHO
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    Last edited by geshaw30 : 03/30/2011 at 07:34 PM

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