Geee Tone,
yor hurtin his feelins.
Geee Tone,
yor hurtin his feelins.
VX : CLOSEST THING TO A CONCEPT CAR!
Didnt meen to make your hairs raise, I have nothing againt this sight other then being able to post pics. Just trying to help, not cut through red tape in the process. Yeh, my spelling sucks, I admit it. I now theres manuals around and I reccomend getting one, but non that are going to have as many refferance pics. Also, im building a better then stock VX engine that requires less stringent maintnence and extra steps wich most manuals dont have. It would cost you about $6000 give or take to have a stock engine replacement. If you do this yourself like I am its only going to cost about $2500 to $3000 and your time for a better all around motor. Im planning on keeping my VX for a long time without a repeat of the same problems and just want to give records of what ive done, take it or leave it.
Last edited by MoonRaker : 02/12/2007 at 04:48 PM
Ok, ive gotten my final quotes for parts and machining.
Keep note that im building a 200,000 mile engine so not all figures apply.
Rebuild kit from promar engines, includes pistons and gaskets and oil pump $850.00
All in house machining from Promar, 0.010 over stock and including crank $500.00
nickel plating and diamond honning $800.00
Total cost = $2100.00
This is great, better then a $3200 shortblock. Im betting it can handle an extra 60 HP load and not have an affect on milage out come. The nickel plating isnt a must but I do it to all of my motors to decrees were and tear, and it also decreases friction and heat. Here are the sights to the vendors.
http://www.promarengine.com/home.asp
http://www.mt-llc.com/technology/index.shtml
Any more seggestions would be cool.
Last edited by MoonRaker : 02/16/2007 at 02:33 PM
Well, im on my last few steps of my rebuild. Its taken longer then I planned because it was set on the back burner for some time but ive been left no choice. I totaled my other vehical and getting a new one isnt a good option at this time. Ive gotten all of the machining finished and built the long block in the last 3 days. My findings were 1, cracked ring and 2, oil rings had no spring and were kinda stuck. It looks like a manufactureing defect with the oil rings to me to be the cause. The oil ring groove in the pistons were to tightly clearenced causing many engine issues ive seen with other owners. Id recomend everyone getting a compresion test and leakdown test if you have any bad engine symtoms such as oil burning before your warrenty runs out.
Last edited by MoonRaker : 08/25/2007 at 10:40 PM
A leak down test would be expensive, since you would have to remove the cams. shawn
1COOLVX
Just bar the motor over and do 1 hole at a time. A motor job costs 7,000 or more for the VX by a dealer. Im sure a leakdown test dosnt cost that much.Originally Posted by psychos2
As it sits ive spent $1250 sofar on parts and machining. Ive done everything except the nicol coating and since the motor has steel sleeves and dosnt require it but that would have been optimal. I need to get some bearings for a pully or 2, probly another 20 bucks.
Last edited by MoonRaker : 08/25/2007 at 10:45 PM
To properly do a leakdown test you need to remove the cams.If you were to cheat and not remove the cams you would have to try to hold the crank in one spot so it does not turn.. And this test would not tell you if you had a stuck oil ring anyway. It would tell you if you had a valve issue, or a compression ring issue. So this test would not even tell you if you had a stuck oil ring.You work in a motor shop?? shawnOriginally Posted by MoonRaker
Last edited by psychos2 : 08/26/2007 at 05:27 AM
Yeh, were the best in the US on rotarys. Yes, 1 of the compression rings were cracked. This is the 2nd motor that ive herd of that had the oil rings sticking with bad springs and I called it as the problem before I stripped the motor down. No I didnt do any leakdown test because it already showed signs of potential total failer so what was the point.
Were you able to take as many pictures as you'd hoped, since you were in a hurry?
Sent from my "two hands on a keyboard"
Only of the disassembly.
Hey MoonRaker, I was wondering what happened to yuh. hope all is well. If you still want to finish that write up with your pictures let me know. I still have all the stuff from earlier this year that we worked on. I did get a chance to upgrade the website aswell.
01 VX Kaiser | Love it! Drive it! Mod it! MYVEHICROSS.com | VX-WIKI
Rancho RS9000X | VXC Shifter Plates | PV2 | Hella Micro DE fogs | Carbon Fiber Hood | AfterShock Skid Plates (front, rear, sides)
That sucks... taking things apart is easy, putting them back together is what needs visual explanation. Would still be interested in the write-up though.Originally Posted by MoonRaker
I was thinking that but I was so in depth with the assembly I didnt have much of a chance to take pictures. I can say a couple of things though. I noticed that the crank and rod bearings were brand new, they even still had the machine cut marks with no visable wear. 5 of the 6 cylenders were perfect also showing no wear, you could still see the hone marks in even the bad hole, there was 2 much uneven wear in the hole that housed the cracked ring. Everything was brown from the blowby but cleaned up better then expected. Things are going together pretty quickly, I lost the head dowls so I need to track them down today. Ive also bought new head bolts since I had to drill 4 out. The holes were bored out 10 over and the heads to block surfaces were decked for a perfect seal.
Well, motor is finished ready to install. Recommendation, dont loss any parts, it takes alot longer in the end.