Isuzu Lawsuit...

[PHO2GR4]

Okay, Joe Black, please consider me first in line for your window fix!

See the guy waving the handful of dollar bills? That's me!

[Thejerseyfish]

Makes sense what was said about the class action being no good in this case. Not enough of a menace to not enough people to warrant it. I have however though heard of people going after the auto maker individualy, and a lot times winning. With the snow storm I haven't had a good chance to talk to my friends that are lawyers yet, hopefully be able to get to that by the end of the week.
This brings me to my problem still. I still have a blown regualtor with no idea what the part number is or even where to go about getting one. Anyone know this info? Also what is the price on a part like that, I heard that they are expensive.
Hopefully if the weather clears in the next day or two here I'll try lubing the pass window which is the only one still working and see how that goes. As for the driver, its still up and down by hand till I get the part.

Lastly, what is the official concensus here on the best long term fix, I've many, shim this, bend that, but what is the easy and longest lasting way to fix it so it doesn't come up again?

Thanks for the great input by everyone by the way. If I didn't love my girl I wouldn't be here, and know that goes for the rest of you.

[Bulldoggie]

Lastly, what is the official concensus here on the best long term fix, I've many, shim this, bend that, but what is the easy and longest lasting way to fix it so it doesn't come up again?

Thanks for the great input by everyone by the way. If I didn't love my girl I wouldn't be here, and know that goes for the rest of you.

Well, I'll throw out my 2 cents again.

My shimmed window lift still works like a charm.

All the 3m silicone spray in the world, will not put the lifting arm back under the glass. Although it does help keep the rubber from sticking.

My repair cost less than $10.

If your window pushes outward from the door, it needs to be shimmed before the window tabs break!!!! And they will not take the stress.

If your window tilts down in front, the Window needs to be positioned more to the REAR. That is why someone said you can just push the window rearward as it goes up or down. Just remember to pull your fingers out before they get pinched.

How you go about moving the glass rearward could be done many ways.
I chose to slot the 4 holes that hold the lift arm assembly.

Anyone who wants to stop by and see how well my windows work, feel invited.
I'll even pull the panel so you can see for yourself why I made the adjustments that I did, and how simple it is to do.

If you would like me to help walk you through it, just schedule a time to meet.

I myself would not have tried until I read every post I could find about the window problem, and doing so gave me the clues of where to look. That is what makes forums like this so wonderful.

Lastly, Does anyone have a window that tilts down in the back, or one that pushes itself inside the car???? NO???? Well this should cover the window problem for All that still have a working motor. Only saying that these two adjustments will fix ALL the window problems that I have read about.

Is it permement? I have had no promblems or readjustment since.

Is this the "official concensus", NO. But that is why they are called forums.

My widow had a broken rear tab and the front tab had it's brass theads pulled out. I fixed the front one by pushing the brass piece back in and using a longer bolt so a nylock nut could be added on the other side. The rear one I glued together with an Epoxy and encasing the tab with enough Epoxy to hold the tab together on all sides. If this tab breaks in the future, I will replace it with the GM window tab.

[IndianaVX]

I am in agreement with bulldoggie, i have fixed my windows with the fixes found here on the forum.....the drilling out, the washers,the bending track and mount, and the silicone. windows work like a charm, like they should. BUT after the start of this cold snap, my driverside started messing up, so i took the panel off to see what was up, and the "glue" that holds the windows to the tabs had failed. DONT PANIC!!! i just razor bladed the factory glue off the window, (it all stuck to the window, and not the tabs) and epoxied the window back to the tabs, now im back to perfectly working windows.
i still have the split rubber that i need to replace at some point, but my windows work very well, and no water comes in, so hey, im happy.
I too invite, or welcome anyone to get ahold of me, and i will help fix, or walk thru the process to get yours working again also. always glad to help.
david

[johnnyapollo]

I think the fix you need depends on how far the deterioration has gone. When it starts to drag, the "stack of washer" fix is the easiest and most effective to do - the next level is probably the bent back guide, then the slotted screw holes and finally, if the mount is peeling off the glass, a re-attachment. It can get to the point where the mount actually breaks off from the glass and will need to be replaced, or the regulator fails due to the excessive drag from the slipping window. You'll need to examine and try to simplest fixes first, then move on to the more extensive as needed.

-- John

[Bulldoggie]

I think the fix you need depends on how far the deterioration has gone. You'll need to examine and try to simplest fixes first, then move on to the more extensive as needed.

-- John

I agree, part of the exam is to unbolt the glass from the lift arm.

Question#1 Is the glass still resting on the lift arm? The arm should be able to lift the window without the bolts. The bolts are for pulling the glass down and to keep the glass centered.

Question#2 When you push the glass to the rear, do the lift arm bolt holes still line up with the window tab holes? The rear guide and the rear edge of the glass, is your guide to where the glass belongs.

You only have to adjust if your answer is No to either question.

[JHarris1385]

Class action suit would not work in this case as previously stated. Sure it fits the criteria but it just is simply not worth it.

I am a law school student. My dad and grandfather have been practicing well over 60 years combined.


David, I still need to meet you sometime soon, maybe when it warms up. I need some window help.

Got a question for all though, is it me or does it seem like it is always the passenger side that fails first?

JRH

[Bulldoggie]

Got a question for all though, is it me or does it seem like it is always the passenger side that fails first?

JRH

I think it has more to do with which door pull has been slammed the most.

The door pull handle, pulls the lift regulator away from the glass. That is why they all worked in the showroom. It is also the reason for the small cracks in the door panels near the lock buttons in the top rear, others have seen.

Once you have pulled your panel, look at the 4 lift bolts, and look at the holes for the armrest/door pull. It is the weakest part of the door. Just pull on that part of the door and see how much it moves. These two functions should not share the same flimsy strip of metal. I hope Joe Black is looking at this point in his repair.

[cyronman]

It might be a good idea to to rename this thread (at least add window woes to the title) just for future reference.
Unless it's nothing new here.

yes? no?
no big deal?

[Bulldoggie]

It might be a good idea to to rename this thread (at least add window woes to the title) just for future reference.
Unless it's nothing new here.

yes? no?
no big deal?

Not new but it is spread out over many threads.
I'm sorry if this one has been Highjacked. I just want to help share what I've seen.

I would like it if it was put into something like Tone's VX manual.

I know I showed the west Portland dealer (B&G Buick) over 85 pages on this topic, and that was before I fixed mine.