Mine is making a quite a lot of noise these days. Probably a bearing. I have an email in to Tone but wondered if anyone else has delt with this issue.
Mine is making a quite a lot of noise these days. Probably a bearing. I have an email in to Tone but wondered if anyone else has delt with this issue.
Scott
just at idle or always? The older versions do make a rough sounding noise at idle.
"You can live your life in a thousand ways,
but it all comes down to that single day,
when you realize what you regret,
but you cant relaim and you cant forget."
----Trans Siberian Orchestra
Happens at idle but also when accelerating or going up hills. I thought it was an exhaust leak but my mechanic believes it is a bearing in the SC. Does anyone know the warrantee that Alpine gives with these SCs? I'm sure it's been too long for me but tearing down the nose sounds like an expensive process.
I had the early noisy bearing. Never any problems other than it sounded like you owned a POS.
I purchased the newer quiet nose from Alpine and swapped it in about an hour. I remember it being about $400, but not sure. They didn't keep it in stock, and I waited about 8 weeks to get it.
John C.
Have you checked the ERG nut. The aluminum block that comes with the kit is notorious for backing the nut off and letting exhaust gas flow by making noise. I ended up putting locktite on it and that lasted 2 years without a problem.
I was going to change to the new nose cone a lil while back and it seemed like a $200+ item, cant remember for sure. The nut could very well be the noise you hear, sounds alot like a exhaust leak under acceleration.
Also have you changed the s/c oil, how did it look?
Jay,Originally Posted by Jay Dunford
Absolutely, that was the first thing I thought when I heard the noise but that nut was on good and tight.
As The owner of the first VX ever supercharged( Factory installed), I can tell you of the many issues resulting in noise & eventual failure of nose cones rear bearings etc.
On 5/5/05 I decided I had done all I could do in trying to make a silk purse out of a sows ear & sent the SC out for overhaul to
www.superchargerTech.com
Supercharger Technologies
26988 SE Hwy 19
unit 47 Old Town Fl. 32680
352 542 0147
SC came with a 2 year warranty at a total cost of $490 ( exchange)
Result was awesome everthing replaced, nose cone, bearings etc every bearing including rear housing bearings replaced. SC is after two years still as smooth as butter with no noise or any other issues.
Bob F
Neither ordinary or extraordinary, just indefatigable.
2000 VX Green Dragon- Chick Demagnitizer-Supercharger-Injen Intake- Cold air box-K&N- Power Vault SS Exhaust-265-75-16 BFG MT kms-On Board CO2- Custom Boulder Bars- Custom Skid plates- PIAA 520 Fog Lites-3inch lift with OME 912 Springs-LINE X Bedliner on Cladding & Hood Insert-ARB Front Lockers & Custom Bull Bar. Vintage Offenhauser Hood scoop Thule Rack. XM Radio-Custom Storage Box-First VX to surmount the RUBICON.Thanks Sierra Stompers
Bob, glad to see you still bopping around here!
Billy Oliver
15xIronman
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Hey hey, look, it's Dragon Bob! Good to see ya lurking around. Hope all is well.
Found I had to order a new throttle body gasket last night. The existing one was so unusable, it was hardly even visible. Something got the better of it. So, a new one on order from isuzuparts.com (they love me now.... I think I keep them in business). In the meantime, while I wait for it, I guess I will just clean and polish up everything from the throttle body to the EGR. The EGR isnt in the best of shape either, but, if it aint broke, dont fix it. I think my VX is clearly allergic to winter salts here.
Slow progress is still progress. About 2 hours a night in the garage. I dont recall my previous S/C installs having so much damned hosing, heh. Of course, those were not fuel injected vehicles though.
Question about polishing: The fuel rails and the EGR mount.... those who polished these, any advice?
Gary Noonan
'01 S/C VX / '18 Forester XT
I used some Flitz metal polish, a cotton rag, & lots of elbow grease...a buffing wheel on a bench grinder would have eliminated the elbow grease thing.Originally Posted by WormGod
Also, plug all orfices in the fuel rails with scraps of rag to prevent any metal polish residue from entering the rail.
Another tip to make your install easier...cut some "U" shaped shims out of sheet aluminium (available @ most hardware/hobby stores) about an inch square, with a 1/4" slot in the middle to aid in alignment of the fuel rails.
On mine, the rails were slightly mis-aligned when tightened onto the existing (on the Alpine manifold) mounts causing some binding issues with the injectors. When the rails are tightened to the mounting lugs, you should still be able to rotate the injectors back & forth with moderate hand pressure.
Use emery cloth to slightly enlarge the beveled edge where the injectors go into the fuel rail & ample silicone grease on the upper & lower injector O-rings to keep from tearing O rings, as clearances are VERY tight.
Good Luck !
I actually had no issues installing the injectors into the rails. Very mild lubing of the plenum ports and very minor lubing of the fuel rail ports. Then some slow but constant twisting of the injectors as you apply pressure to put them in the plenum. Getting them in the fuel rails was alittle trickier but not so bad really. I laid the rail over the injectors and lined up the ports to them. Applying a little pressure to the rail while slowly twisting the injectors a little at a time and they worked their way into the rail. The rail mounted up right to the plenum with a perfect fit.
I assumed I was gonna have trouble getting them in since i played hell getting them out of the OEM fuel rail, but I was pleasantly surprised that it was the opposite. In all, the o-rings were still in great shape (only a couple years old) so I didnt have to use any of my new ones. Good to have regardless.
My only issue this weekend was getting the nut off of the crank pulley. I hunted all over for a crank holder. No shops nor any of my tech friends had access to one (found one that fit various Fords, but no luck on my pulley). So, I ended up using the serpentine belt. I did the old wrap and fold of the belt around the pully and cranked the nut in the opposite direction. Worked like a charm (with some shop gloves that is.... hard on the hands). It's a risky tactic if you want to re-use your belt, so I suggest only doing this if you are replacing it. In my case, I was replacing all belts and gaskets so I had nothing to lose.
Looking over some stuff at quitting time last night, I was checking out the wiring. Does anyone recall what harnesses, if any, they had to splice and lengthen? Looks like there is gonna have to be some extension for the wiring to reach the new throttle body location.
Last edited by WormGod : 04/02/2007 at 09:39 AM
Bob...what was the length of the turn around for the overhaul?Originally Posted by Green Dragon
I just realised last night that my fuel hose from the passenger side fuel rail banjo was resting against the EGR piping (below the EGR and mounting block). Granted, I havent had the VX out since the install except to drive around the block and run in the driveway for some tweaking, so no damage done.
My question.... this pipe generates some healthy heat, so is it safe to say I should re-route the hose further away from the EGR piping? I am not so sure how hot the EGR pipe gets and if it is going to be damaging to the hose. I don;t know why I didnt think of this when installing.
Afterall, fuel and heat.... really good friends when trying to create chaos.
I found a fairly safe place to re-route the hose. Behind the EGR is a bracket for some other lines. It took removal of the fuel rail but I was able to undo the banjo and push the fuel line back behind the S/C again and run it back through BEHIND that line bracket and reconnect again. It's pretty much flush with the firewall now and out of EGR harm. Hopefully, this is the last minor issue I come across. She is going out for a good run tomorrow. It's the moment of truth, heh.