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Thread: Help/Hints - Replacing Injector O-Rings

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  1. #1
    Member Since
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    Help/Hints - Replacing Injector O-Rings

    Quick History: My Fuel Injectors were sucking air around them and I moved the fuel rail to get the noise to stop, but I agree with you guys that I should just replace the o-rings (I still get a LEAN CODE once in a while).

    So I have the new O-Rings (14 in the package - 7large & 7smaller - must be 2 spares) and hope to replace them in the next couple weeks (weather permitting). It looks fairly easy... Couple hours if I take my time?

    Here's what I think I need to do (based on last look a couple weeks ago), so correct me if you see something I missed or a link that already talks about it (I didn't find any).

    1) Pull fuel pump relay and run engine to bleed off pressure.
    2) Unbolt fuel rail
    3) Looks like you have to pull out a clip on each injector to detach from the rail (Is there an o-ring up there also or do both go down in the intake manifold???)
    4) Pull out injector and find o-rings and replace'em
    5) put it all back together
    6) Dance a Jig if it runs better!

    Help - Hints - Tips - Am I close????

    Thanks in advance
    If you don't first THINK THINK, you could end up in deep DO DO!

  2. #2
    Member Since
    Jun 2004
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    99 Astral Silver VX #1872 + 99 Ironman WIP
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    Arrow

    There is one in the manifold & one in the fuel rail on each injector.

    Some silicone grease helps in re-installing. (Dive shop if you can't find any at your local auto parts vendor.)

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the tip on the Silicone Grease.

    So, maybe I should leave the upper 'O' rings alone (I would be able to see fuel leaking if they were bad???) What do ya think, are the upper ones going to be a real pain or will it just take a little extra time, and the clips come out pretty easy?

    Oh, and any special tools? Just a nice set of hand tools looks sufficient.

  4. #4
    Member Since
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    Arrow

    Tough call on that one...

    On one hand, since you've got it all apart already, why not install em' all.

    On the other hand, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.


  5. #5
    Member Since
    Jun 2002
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    2001 Ebony S/C #1304
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    I am looking forward to the same O-ring song and dance in a couple of weeks. The weather is FINALLY getting nice and it is time for the S/C install. Just need to get out and pick up a few gaskets and I am ready to go. I replaced the O-rings once with the fuel rail and it wasnt so bad, so here is to hoping it isnt any different with the S/C.
    Gary Noonan
    '01 S/C VX / '18 Forester XT

  6. #6
    Member Since
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    Smile

    I know it's been a while, but I finally got these little rascals replaced!
    It would have been an easy job except for an allen head bolt into the manifold right next to the firewall (I ended up loosening it a bit and tipping up the metal bracket to work around it). All in all it was a pretty easy job and took about 2.5Hrs. I didn't find any silicon grease, but I did use some silicon spray on a rag and then wiped it onto the O rings before installing (They slid in very easily). Cleaning up all the old burned disgusting greasey/dirty messy injectors and holes was, as I see it, the most important part! I wanted a GOOD seal and I think it worked! I only did 2 of the upper O rings because it was so hard to get them apart and I didn't actually compelty remove the fuel rail (left it attached to the passenger side fuel line, because I was afraid it would be really hard to put back on).
    The good news: After a couple trips of 1000rpm idling, it idled back down, runs really smooth, doesn't stumble when shifted into park anymore, raps up higher between shifts when I am getting on it, and my tailpipe is starting to turn more of a tan color than the chalkey black that it was!!!!!!

    I be Dancin a Jig

    Oh, I took some pics, I might toss a couple up here if I get around to it (I hadn't found any previously that really showed what I would find when removing these)

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