Getting ready for s/c install

[deton8r]

Okay, I've got the intake gaskets and the not so common tools Tone recommended like a shorty 22mm wrench, strap wrench, and 8mm x 1.25 tap. Am I missing anything else that won't be readily available at the local auto parts store?

After looking through the kit I have the following questions:

1. What spark plugs is everybody running? It's a big no no to run platinum plugs with forced induction. Anybody have part numbers for non-platinum plugs that are 1 heat range colder or can recommend one that seems to work well?

2. Anybody running a low temp 160 or 180 degree thermostat? If so what's the part number and can I find one?

3. Should I vent the breather to intake tube or atmosphere? On my truck I found that I was getting oil sucked into the s/c so I slapped a small K&N breather on it. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about on this VX. Is this a good idea with this kit?


4. Intake filter/tube recommendations? I was under the impression that the kit had a K&N cone filter but it doesn't. Should I just buy one and slap it on or modify a kit designed for another car? I have seen some that look like they were borrowed from the ricer world that look nice. I also heard Tone was going to sell a carbon fiber one but haven't seen them yet.

Here's a picture of a carbon fiber Weapon R kit but I don't know the application it was supposed to be for. Anybody here know?


Thanks in advance

[vx69]

I can not answer all your questions but I do know some of them. When I put on my S/C I left in the stock plugs for about 2,500 miles eventually I went to the Bosch platinum +4 and I noticed a big difference. I only went with the plugs under Bosch's listing for the VX, with the filter I would recomend either K&N or go to the Calmini, I already had the Calmini kit on my VX before the S/C. What I was told about ventind the crankcase to the atmosphere with a filter, was that it is okay but it will not pass most emission inspections.

I hope this helps

[Hotsauce]

Haven't tried plats on my SC VX yet, but on my other high boost(20+psi) cars they don't work well, they idle much better, but miss athigh revs.

Don't even think of using splitfires, or anything Nology makes.

John C.

[deton8r]

I'm not going to run any type of platinum plug with the supercharger. Thanks for the head up about Nology, I have heard similar complaints about them from others with the exception of their coils for other applications.

According to the NGK part finder the stock replacement is PFR5G-11. I just ordered a couple boxes (4 per box) of PFR6G-11 which is one heat range colder. Sometimes these colder range plugs are not readily available at your local auto parts store.

Here's a link to an excellent how-to on reading NGK plugs and another to a plug x-reference chart. I swear by NGK TR6 plugs in my supercharged Chevy truck.

Reading NGK plugs
NGK Plug Cross Reference Chart

I still need a part number for a low temp thermostat. Sounds like installing one after the s/c is in wouldn't be very

[paultvx]

I don't think a low temp thermostat would do much. All it'd do is take longer for the engine to warm up. I've heard bad things about the Bosch +4s in other forced induction applications. Namely VW VR6s with aftermarket turbos or centrifugal superchargers. All issues were remedied by swtiching to NGKs.

[Dallas4u]

I know I received NGK's in my SC package, so I'm not sure if others didn't received them or just decided to use other plugs.

[deton8r]

I guess I eat my words about running platinum plugs. Those PFR6G-11s are platinum. They are replacement plugs for the Acura NSX and the Subaru Imprezza WRX turbo vehicles so I feel confident they will work well with the s/c. The bad news is that they run around $12/each

I just went back through my kit and mine did not ship with plugs nor the s/c fluid. I didn't pull the actual s/c out of the box but hopefully it's already filled. I might try to get a Pontiac GTP s/c fluid changer kit just in case.

[Dallas4u]

The SC should come filled already, but it's always good to check first!

[Zu4two]

- My S/C came with new plugs. They are NGK's and supposedly just one heat range cooler than stock.
- The blower should already have the proper amount of oil in it.
- I have looked into a cooler T-stat. The T-stat for the 3.5 motor is actually a whole assembly and costs ~$25. A mechanic at my dealer says that the stock T-stat opens at around 175 degrees and he didn't know of any american Isuzu engine that ran a cooler T-stat.
- I would run the breather back into the intake like indicated in the instructions, then you're not violating any emission laws.

Good luck on the install!

[paultvx]

Originally posted by Zu4two
- I would run the breather back into the intake like indicated in the instructions, then you're not violating any emission laws.

I'd run the breather to keep gunk from ciriculating back into the intake. Redirect back to intake when due for emissions testing.

Better yet, run a catch tank and route back into the intake. More enviro-friendly solution.

Catch tanks:

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclengine.htm

Scroll midway down and you'll see them. The low buck ($45) and the nice one from Greddy ($100)

Or the one from Injen http://www.subarustore.com/cusoilcatcan.html

[Tone]

Plugs are not needed as the stock ones are more than sufficient. I run the Bosche Plus 4s.

SC comes filled with fluid but always a good idea to check first.

Passenger side valve cover hose is an intake so a vent is not harmful to the environment.

[rx7tt95]

Plats are absolutely recommended over "standard" electrode plugs. It's a myth that they do not work with superchargers or turbochargers. I run platinum NGK's on my RX7 which is running 17psi (very high CFM's which is more important) on pump gas. Platinum has a very high melting point. Irridium is even better but more costly. I run two heat ranges colder. BER9EQP's as opposed to 7's. That's a rotary-specific plug, don't try it in your VX

Plats are better than stock electrodes because they do not wear as much over time. We're running moderate boost levels with this SC kit so gap isn't SUPER critical, but many cars, running high boost, will get an ignition miss as the electrode wears. This is due to two factors; increased cylinder pressure (makes it harder for the electricity to jump the gap) and increased gap due to wear. Run platinums and the gap will increase at a much slower rate than traditional plugs.

I really don't think it's necessary to mess with plug gap on the VX/SC setup, nor heat range. The individual coils are pretty strong and unless you have ignition issues elsewhere, stock gap should do the job. If you start pushing the envelope, I'd recommend an EGT probe and a bit of testing with a "colder" plug (numerically higher part number). But flat tires have more pressure than the SC is pushing.

Forget the colder thermostat. The engine is designed to operate most effectively in a predetermined heat range. Going to a colder thermostat if there's an actual problem in terms of the radiator's ability to handle BTU's, will not solve the problem. Only a larger radiator will do that. I'm sure the ECU takes coolant temp readings (has to) and an engine that doesn't fully warm up may put you in "limp" or warmup mode.