S/C Reference Info

[WormGod]

Thought I would start up something that may be helpful to those upgrading to the S/C, upgrading existing hoses to it, or having issues with it. For those do-it-yourselfers anyways, since many folks probably had it installed and maintained by another source. Might be kinda helpful having a dedicated info and photo thread for it. Especially since I am in the end of my install experience, and taking pics as I went. I hope to add more pics and info as it comes in, so please feel free to offer any info to keep this updated, and I can snap pics as well. If anyone has the time and knowledge, it would be helpful to be able to list all numbered connections and give any information about them (what they are, where they go, what their function is, and how they relate to the S/C from stock), so this is a work in progress. Any and all participation in making this a useful source is appreciated.

Breakdown

Necessary parts removed to begin the install. Looking rough. I tagged all loose hoses and wiring with masking tape so they would stand out and I wouldnt be able to forget to attach later.





Assembly

The S/C comes mostly assembled from factory. All you really need to do is to add the parts that you are taking from your VX and adding them to it. Shown below is the S/C with my fuel injectors installed in the plenum and the fuel rails and the EGR resting idle in place on the EGR mount (to be installed after S/C is mounted).

(1) -



Throttle Body

The throttle body is a housing filled with wire harness connections and hoses. All of which will be very important later on when reconnecting because it is relocated near the firewall and all hoses and harnesses will need to be extended to reach it.

(1) -
(2) -
(3) -



Stock Fuel Rail

This is not going to be needed for the S/C since it has it's own machined fuel rails.

(1) -
(2) -
(3) -
(4) -



Stock Intake Manifold and Fuel/Vacuum Lines

This hunk of metal will be thrown aside for the S/C install. Perhaps someone will find a use for it as a paper weight.

(1) -
(2) -
(3) -
(4) -
(5) -
(6) -



Crankshaft Pully

This was not an easy task to mount. The existing bolt had to be pulled to piggyback the S/C pully and fasten with a replacement bolt and 2 extras to secure it. I couldnt get my hands on a pully holder that fit, so I ended up using the serpentine belt as a reverse wrap grip. Worked like a charm but offers possible damage to the belt. If you go this route, make sure you have a replacement. Luckily, I already had a replacement for the install. Also, notice the studs. These allow for the S/C tensioner bracket to clear the serpentine belt and pullys. So, that means you are removing the fan and fan clutch to get this mounted.

(1) -
(2) -



New Throttle Body Location

As you can see, it's going to be in front of the driver side firewall now.

(1) -
(2) -
(3) -
(4) -
(5) -



EGR Mount on S/C

The location of the EGR is no different than stock, but it's a doozy to get out and in (was for me anyways).

(1) -
(2) -
(3) -



Passenger Side Angle

A view down the right hand side of the S/C showing the fuel rail and some vacuuming.

(1) -
(2) -



Driver Side Angle

A view down the left hand side of the S/C showing the fuel rail and some vacuuming.

(1) -
(2) -
(3) -
(4) -
(5) -



Driver Side Firewall

A view of vacuuming that run's further from the S/C.

(1) -
(2) -

[Ascinder]

I don't know if you planned on keeping the stock manifold or not, but I am looking for one if you want to get rid of it. Great reference by the way, I think this going to be a real helpful resource that's been needed for awhile now.

[Ldub]

I'll post "items of interest" as they occur to me, in no particular order...all worth the price you paid... maybe.

I had some of the cap screws that fasten the tube between the EGR block & the back of the supercharger vibrate loose & disappear, causing the hot rod to run poorly (low power), idle rough or not at all, throw codes & make a bizarre "MOOOOO" noise every time the engine was shut off.
I used hi-temp silicone instead of red loc-tite when I fixed this problem & haven't had any problems since.(almost a year)

I fixed the frequently loose 22mm EGR nut in the same manner...by substituting hi-temp silicone for red loc-tite & have had no further issues...but still carry a 22mm "stubby" in my glove box, just in case.

[Ldub]

Two or three hose clamps on the fuel supply line to the fuel rail fixed the fuel leak I had there...one just didn't do it.

Some permatex "Copper spray-a-gasket" on the copper washers which seal the "banjo fittings" on the hard line between the fuel rails fixed that fuel leak.

It's handy to have a compact air impact wrench to get the nut off the crankshaft to install the piggyback pully. The one I got at Sears just BARELY fit between the crank & the radiator.

If you decide to replace the thermostat while you have the intake off, be VERY careful when removing the "hard" coolant pipe that's in the way. It's sealed by an O-ring that is easily damaged. (Yes, that's the voice of experience.) You won't know it's damaged until you have everything back together & THEN find out you have to tear the whole thing apart again to fix it.
On a positive note...it exponentially expands your "swearword vocabulary".

If you damage one or more of the O rings on the injectors, it will invariably be on the drivers side...with the intake etc. in your way. (there's that voice again.) Thank you Mr. Murphy.

[Ldub]

Always use new intake gaskets.

Ckeck the s/c belt tensioner pully...last time I had mine apart (use a dental pic to remove the seal) there was NO sign of grease...bone dry. I can't imagine how that didn't fail somewhere between here & Moab.

[WormGod]

I am nearing completion of the install, and while I still have stuff torn down somewhat and in a position to snap some more pics for reference, does anyone have any requests or ideas for other points of interest? Tone and Ldub have been major assets to this install and for information gathering, so I have quite a bit covered that I am documenting for diagrams and additional information as well. Trust me, I bothered Tone enough with many completely unimportant and annoying questions so hopefully nobody else will have to do it in the future, heh (sorry Tone.... but that's what you get for being the Guru).

So if you have any need for something while I am in a position to snap pics and/or nag Tone again, get at me. I am probably only gonna be torn down for the remainder of this week. Just one more vac line (that lovely 1/8" to 1/4" line.... *sigh*) and wiring to do before I start it up and watch it go up in a mushroom cloud.

[VehiGAZ]

WormGod, how about some pictures showing how the cable hooks into the throttle body. ZooperTrooper was a bit unsure of how it works with the VX, since he had it installed on a Trooper with a drive-by-wire linkage.

(I don't know what most of that means, by the way)

Thanks!

[WormGod]

The accel and cruise cable. Gotcha. Unfortunately, I am going without cruise until Alpine sends me a new bracket and cable as my kit only had the accel bracket and no cruise cable. Should be fun later on (if and when I get the stuff) since it's much easier mounting the bracket with the S/C off.

Will cover what I can though.

[Baxman]

I bought the aftermarket smaller pulley from Alpine for extra boost. It was ~$80. Turns out the pulley diameter is only 2mm smaller than the original, and I really couldn't feel much difference in accelleration. I then had the new pulley machined another 1mm. Maybe a slight improvement in accelleration, but abysmal gas mileage at 13-16. I'm also a little concerned about the transmission's ability to handle the extra torque. I haven't had it back on the dyno, mostly because I was so disappointed with the numbers from the original S/C.

[Ldub]

The accel and cruise cable. Gotcha. Unfortunately, I am going without cruise until Alpine sends me a new bracket and cable as my kit only had the accel bracket and no cruise cable. Should be fun later on (if and when I get the stuff) since it's much easier mounting the bracket with the S/C off.

It's not too bad, since the new bracket has slots instead of holes. But yes, still a PITA that could have been avoided if alpine would get their poop in a group & send everything as a complete kit...oh,& did I mention a complete set of instructions...not a collection of vague references & "B-grade" pictures.
When you complete your "s/c 101 tutorial" you should sell it to Alpine for big buck$...like they even care.

[WormGod]

Ha! Good thought Ldub, but as long as it benefits us, that is all that matters.

Got ALL of my vacuum lines run last night. Planning it out doesnt go the way you think it will when you finally do it. Of course, I already had the S/C mounted when it came time to "run the coolant lines under the S/C", so I had to find alternate routes. I spent about 1 1/2 hours last night running and RErunning the lines, just because nothing ever looked clean, avoided heated surfaces, or seated well. Hell, I will probably go back out tonight and redo it all again, heh.

Started the wiring as well too. What a mess. I hate wiring. Nuff said. You wanna know what I spent the most time on last night.... one of the rubber grommets came off of a harness and fell "somewhere" in the engine bay. Ya, that was WHOOPIDDY DOO FUN trying to find. I managed to find it eventually, but not after cutting and slicing up my hands reaching and and feeling around all over the place for what felt like an eternity.

I have some new pics to upload soon and added the wiring schematic to the diagrams. Really hope to have this stuff up soon since I will be turning the key this weekend. Watch on the horizon for the BIG BADDA BOOM.

[Ldub]

Just take er' easy there "Leelu" ...drive "nice" for the first few miles to let the ECU figure out what this new boost thing is all about.

I had my neg cable disco'd during the audio build & "forgot" to ease on into it when I cranked things up again...threw a CE light.

Cleared the code & did some easy accelerations & now it's all goo.

[WormGod]

Nah, I didnt mean I was gonna "get on it". I meant, I will turn the key and there will be a small mushroom cloud in my driveway, heh. I know my luck.... Loose fuel connection or something and the VX will be a BBQ. But, I am always prepared. I have a friend who wants to be here for the first key turn, so I will have him nearby with a fire extinguisher, a HAZMAT suit, and a virgin lamb.

I guess it wouldnt hurt to take one more test on the fuel lines for good measure.

Ah, and tonights 2 hours in the garage paid off. ALL wiring completed and insulated. Air box is a check. All lines docked up. The only problem I have now is.... I misplaced a radiator hose clamp. *DOH* If I don't find it, it's back to Advanced Auto, hahaha.



A whole roll of electical tape and some corrugated tubing sure can cramp one's wrists up.

Ah, also, after checking all connections and making sure everything is tightened down, I did a double-take on the S/C tensioner pully. That wheel seemed pretty wobbly. It seems to teeter somewhat. Is that normal? And, the tensioner puller.... the long bolt that extends from it to tighten the tensioner is awful damned close to one of the serpentine pullys. It doesn't touch, but it is quite close. Any thoughts?

[Ldub]

LOOKIN' GOOD!

The tensioner pully is kind of a waggly affair, but does it's intended job OK.
I know it's a PITA, but if you didn't already, take it apart, pull the seal, & make sure it's prorerly greased...mine was totally dry last time I had it apart, & there was no sign that there ever was any grease. (no leakage visible)

The tension adjustment bolt that is close to the pully is the same on mine. It made me a little skeptical too. After a little break in period & final belt adjustment, I wedged a large screw driver between the bolt & pully & gave it just a little tweak (sideways) to provide a little more clearance.
Capt. Cavemechanic does it again!

Oh, BTW, you'll prolly find the missing hose clamp somewhere stupid five mins after you return from the parts store.

[WormGod]

Oh, BTW, you'll prolly find the missing hose clamp somewhere stupid five mins after you return from the parts store.

Yep, thats always the case. Although, knowing my luck, its actually in the engine bay where it will take off like a bullet through the firewall when I turn my key, hahaha.

Good to know about the pully and tensioner bolt. Thanks for the heads up on the bearings. I wondered that early on.

With most of this stuff out of the way now, I can get back to putting together stuff for a S/C sticky post.