Nascar will endorse mud if you throw enough $$ their way!
Nascar will endorse mud if you throw enough $$ their way!
Billy Oliver
15xIronman
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isn't that one of the ways they tried to repair the Daytona track?
Not sure whether the autozone/o'reilly bearings are made in china or germany. Some one posted that the ones they bought at napa were made in germany. Unless there is a reason to change, one can just repack the original ones that were made in japan and save money.
I'm getting ready to tackle this project so I am reviving this thread.
How many seals are needed? The PlanetIsuzu gives part numbers, but, no quantities. How many did you need to get the job done? When the VX goes down, I need to have everything I need or I'm stuck.
RichD
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...because vinyl just sounds better!
Not sure about the front bearings, but I learned some interesting things about the rear bearings this week. The rear bearings were only made by two or three manufacturers. Regardless of the package or company, they come from the same factory. They were made years ago, and often come with the 89-91 collar that retains the rear bearing. Finding the correct collar to hold the bearing requires going through Isuzu. In theory, the collar is reusable, but sometimes breaks on removal(20K press and a torch) or even during install when you press em in. This is why its taking me two weeks to change rear wheel bearings in the RS, which of course are the same in all the trooper/VX since 1991. Lessons learned.....
I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
Thomas Jefferson
NBC gets their tapered roller bearings (which is what front wheel bearings are) from NTN. NTN has a bunch of manufacturing plants around the world including China and India. Pretty much all bearing companies are that way including Timkin, SKF, FAG, DPI, KYK, Koyo, Nachi, etc. Apparently some put the country the parent company is in as country of origin instead of where it was actually made so its really hard to tell where they were actually made.
--Dave
Welp this was a fantastic write up.
However im in my 10 hour right now, started around 8pm last night. Battled the following: 2 power outages from storms, 2 horsefly attacks prior to said storms, 3 stripped phillips screws, 1 stripped ABS ring screw, Many many overly-lock-tighted screws/bolts, broken rachets, back hurts, too many fumes, no sleep, need beer.
But solid steady progress thanks to this write up. I was wayyy over due for new disks, pads, and fresh bearing grease. And will feel proud doing this big job myself
Must ..finish.. ...
That was grood write up. I finished mine yesterday. Took me 12 hours. I broke a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a ratchet trying to break loose caliper bolts. I even used a propane torch to help loosen all the bolts. It definatley would have been easier with power tools!
Tapping the little phillips screws with a hammer to help remove them without stripping helped alot, but still not without casulties. A good way to remove a stripped screw like that is to tap a Torx bit into the head and work it out.
It was a much bigger job than I imagined.
I gotta do the front bearings now (failed inspection). Found these available for much less:
http://www.wheelbearingwarehouse.com...+Seals&mode=PA
Full set for both sides (including seals) with shipping came to less than $70.
I'll let ya know how it turns out.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Put a smiley after you say that Bub.
Well, I decided to only do the passenger side with those bearings (inner came with outer race but outer didn't ... & they messed up the order & only sent 1 outer bearing. I'll get some quality bearings & do the full set soon.
What I found was that the hub nut was very loose (I'm thinking the shop did not set the passenger side bearing pre-load when they changed out my half shafts). The 3 phillips head screws that everyone hates ... were stripped. I'm going to hit Fastenal on the way home to find some replacements & will post the part # once I get it right (hope to find them allen or torx instead of phillips).
Please remember there is a shim behind the circlip to take the endplay out - i don't see it being replaced - so mostlikely its been lost ?
it sits on the plate behind the circlip and is easily not seen - but its very important as it stops the driveshaft chattering - as yours seems to be very tight it may be ok - but of all the ones i have ever done on all the Isuzu's - i have never had a tight circlip like yours - except once ! - and that was from another owner having your problem - it turned out to be the outer race from the inner bearing not being seated tight in the hub
regards
Steve
Isuzu Vehicross 3.2 V6 24 Valve