Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 29

Thread: NEW Front Bearings and Disc install (pics) - oh what fun...

  1. #1
    Member Since
    Mar 2005
    Location
    01 Ebony - #0379
    Posts
    793
    Thanked: 0

    Talking NEW Front Bearings and Disc install (pics) - oh what fun...

    Well, it was that time by the ODO to replace/repack the bearings. I chose to replace, it was about $200 for new bearings and seals - cheap insurance for something like this. With planetisuzoo's how-to guide (http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles...earing_Repack), the shop manual and a bit of courage - I took the fun on. yay.

    I'm not after a how-to guide here, but a few pics of the guts to our hub and some of the fun I had along the way.

    Since I had to replace the rear rotors, I got front discs too and no better time to replace the front discs than when you're repacking the bearings. The replacement pretty much is the same work load as repacking, instead of playing with getting the old grease out of the bearings you're going to re-use, you are tapping out the raceways and tapping in new ones. I STRONGLY RECOMMEND YOU RENT/BUY A BEARING INSTALL TOOL (metal discs and threaded rod). Tapping in the new raceway in is slow and grueling with a brass draft and hammer , with the bearing tool it only takes 30 seconds to put the new raceways in .

    So here's a few shots of the guts of your hub.



    As everyone kept saying, those philips screws on the retaining ring strip easily. How true! I used one of those impact drivers you hit with a hammer to turn them out - worked like a charm.

    Instead of the hub nut tool, I just used a screw driver and hammer to tap the hub nut on and off. Worked ok for me - it's not on that tight anyhow (or it shouldn't be - else you'll probably be getting 5 MPG if it's super tight .)




    Man, the drivers side grease was pretty discolored rusty red - something got past the oil seal.

    Wasn't too hard to pop out the old raceways if you line up with the notches in the hub. Putting the new ones back was easy as pie with the bearing tool .






    When replacing the discs, there's a few extra steps; Taking off the ABS reluctor ring (tough 6mm hex bolts!) and popping the hub out.


    The hubs come out easily if you support the disc on some wood blocks and use another on the back of the hub. After a few hits, it pops out.




    Since I'm too cheap to buy a packer tool , and I wasn't planning to repack the old bearings, I did it manually - Messy, but fairly simple.





    When putting back on the hub flange and cap, it was recommend to put on a bead of RTV silicone gasket (Room Temperature Vulcanizing). Read instructions, they vary. Bead is on the cap here.




    A before and after with the new SP Performance drilled ans slotted discs and EBC Green Stuff (6000 Series) Pads [Both from Tone].



    I was thinking of making it a sport to see how far the oil seal would fly when you pop it out with the puller tool - Advice: put a rag over it so it won't fly. BETTER ADVICE: USE A SEAL INSTALLER DISC LARGER THAN THE OPENING WHEN INSTALLING THE NEW SEAL, if not it could be tapped into the inner bearing if you tap it in too far.




    And finally, my joy with those #$%#'n snap rings on the ends. After putting it all back together and doing all the proper procedures to BOTH sides, the snap rings would not go into the slot along the splines!!!! @$%@#$! It was sooooo close - see if you can make it out in the pic here - it's literally a few hairs off.


    The raceways and bearings are fully seated, the hub nut was loosened and un-loosened over and over (12 times) to compress and spread the grease around. Pre-loading is ~5 - 5.5 lbs both ways.



    It is all one piece from the back face of the hub to the front face of the flange - the new disc shouldn't matter, and I was careful to put a very thin RTV layer on the hub flange. Anyways, I had to shave a few mils off the back of the snap rings and not install the shims to get them to lock into the grooves.

    Now, who is going to freak the $H!^ out of me and tell me that this is an issue??
    Pre-loading is still good and there is no excessive play in the wheel when jacked up and tugged top and bottom. Driving is very smooth when loading (turning) the front tires, etc... All indications are that the hub assembly is tight. The only thing I can think of is the RTV layer is too thick on the hub flange, even though the flange looks tight to the hub. ......

    Oh well, what the worst that could happen

    Plan for about 4-5 hours to repack the bearings if you have talent. If not, it could take you 10 hours. It took me 7.5 hours on the first side with the learning curve and playing with that stupid snap ring. The other side took me 3.5 hours without so much dikin' around. I was longer as I was replacing my discs and pads and rotating tires too.

    Cheers all.

  2. #2
    Member Since
    Dec 2002
    Location
    2001 Ebony 0177
    Posts
    2,120
    Thanked: 0
    That close' and I'd be tempted to use a drift an' BFH... Or littlefh.

  3. #3
    Member Since
    Jun 2004
    Location
    99 Astral Silver VX #1872 + 99 Ironman WIP
    Posts
    10,613
    Thanked: 1

    Thumbs up

    Nice walkthrough on the frnt bearing/rotor procedure.
    Leave it to my wheelin' bud Kenny to turn a mundane task into "Canadian Tiddly Winks."

    BTW, I like the new Av.

  4. #4
    Member Since
    Jul 2006
    Location
    1999. Unique Ironman
    Posts
    405
    Thanked: 0
    really nice work!
    p.s how much were the parts?

  5. #5
    Member Since
    Mar 2005
    Location
    01 Ebony - #0379
    Posts
    793
    Thanked: 0
    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub
    ...

    BTW, I like the new Av.
    I figured, why should Biju, Bart, and you have all the fun!
    When I saw yours, this is the first one that popped into my head.

  6. #6
    Member Since
    Jun 2004
    Location
    VX Adopted Out. 2005 BMW 325CI & 2006 4Runner.
    Posts
    1,330
    Thanked: 0
    I'm back to Domo-kun for my AV... the butter thing just got old.

    meh.

    Anyways - nice job on the rotors/bearings, etc. Please let me know how you like the green pads. Heard really good things aboot em. If they work out i might havta switch.

    -beej.
    *

    He lingers -- happily -- in a new hybrid state of semi-hormonal adolescence and responsible self-reliance.


    *

  7. #7
    Member Since
    Mar 2005
    Location
    01 Ebony - #0379
    Posts
    793
    Thanked: 0
    Quote Originally Posted by djkymar
    really nice work!
    p.s how much were the parts?
    From NAPA.
    Inner Bearing - $50
    Outer bearing - $40
    Oil seal - $10
    ~$100 x 2.

    Then the consumables and tools....


    about another ~$150.

    So in all, about $350. Probably close to taking it to a mechanic. But why should he get all the fun ????????

  8. #8
    Member Since
    Jun 2002
    Location
    SOLD -- 2001 White Ironman #0797
    Posts
    307
    Thanked: 0
    I've gotten those bearings for less than 20 per.... check prices first. That's a great write up.. I beat the crap out of a new brass punch trying to put in my new races, the tool would have been nice.. that's very correct.

  9. #9
    Member Since
    Feb 2007
    Location
    2000 Proton VX - 0776
    Posts
    9,258
    Thanked: 0
    The tips and how-to's y'all post here are so apropo and well done that I've gotten in the habit of making them real purdy for printing and converting them to pdf for archiving. If anyone is interested, let me know & I'll email a copy.

  10. #10
    Member Since
    Jun 2004
    Location
    99 Astral Silver VX #1872 + 99 Ironman WIP
    Posts
    10,613
    Thanked: 1
    Installed my new rotors & bearings last week, & used this write up as a reference many times...Thanks again Kenny......

  11. #11
    Member Since
    Jun 2004
    Location
    99 Astral Silver VX #1872 + 99 Ironman WIP
    Posts
    10,613
    Thanked: 1

    Wrench

    Quote Originally Posted by driver3 View Post
    I've gotten those bearings for less than 20 per.... check prices first. That's a great write up.. I beat the crap out of a new brass punch trying to put in my new races, the tool would have been nice.. that's very correct.
    Just a to anyone doing this.

    Yes, you can get bearings for less than $20.00 per, but they're usually made in China, & NOT of the quality that's going to last.

    O'Reilly's has two price points for bearings, around $20.OO, & right about $50.OO per...you already know which ones I chose...

    The more expen$ive ones are made in Germany or Japan.

  12. #12
    Member Since
    Jan 2009
    Location
    1999, Ebony Black, VX, 1614
    Posts
    1,852
    Thanked: 1
    are there part numbers or anything for the bearings (the expensive ones that are hand crafted in Germany, forged from the hopes and dreams of small children and painted with unicorn blood)?

    I am thinking about replacing mine and want to make sure I do it with the right parts.

  13. #13
    Member Since
    Jun 2004
    Location
    99 Astral Silver VX #1872 + 99 Ironman WIP
    Posts
    10,613
    Thanked: 1

    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by JAMAS View Post
    are there part numbers or anything for the bearings (the expensive ones that are hand crafted in Germany, forged from the hopes and dreams of small children and painted with unicorn blood)?

    I am thinking about replacing mine and want to make sure I do it with the right parts.
    I just goog'd O'Reillys, & kept looking until I found front wheel bearings & seals...

    You seriously never thought of this?...

    http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0055&ppt=C0337

    http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0055&ppt=C0337

    http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0055&ppt=C0337

    Top two are 1 year warranty, bottom one is 90 days, I'll let you figure out the rest...

  14. #14
    Member Since
    Jan 2009
    Location
    1999, Ebony Black, VX, 1614
    Posts
    1,852
    Thanked: 1
    I didnt know if there were anything that matched up specifically with our hubs or whatever. my luck I would have gotten a set for a bicycle.

    Thanks for the help dubster.

  15. #15
    Member Since
    Jul 2008
    Location
    1999, Astral Silver, VX, 1508
    Posts
    523
    Thanked: 0
    It looks like the National bearings are the ticket and even endorsed by NASCAR......woooooooooo!! I always thought Timken bearings were the best?

    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...=wheel+bearing

    Ohh BTW, thanks for the effort and write-up Kenny!!!
    Larry S.
    99 Astral Silver VX (176k)
    91 Porsche 928 S4 (73k)

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 8
    Last Post: 12/18/2012, 10:01 PM
  2. Front Wheel Bearings
    By crager34 in forum VX Talk...
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 06/02/2012, 06:51 PM
  3. Had my front bearings repacked today
    By Solitude in forum VX Talk...
    Replies: 24
    Last Post: 04/29/2008, 10:00 AM
  4. Repack Front Wheel Bearings
    By DK in forum VX Troubleshooting...
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 03/06/2008, 02:20 PM
  5. Cost of repacking front bearings?
    By Dare2Dream in forum VX Talk...
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 10/28/2005, 04:55 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
$lv_vb_eventforums_eventdetails