LEAKAGE. Do not know wur its coming from

[JHarris1385]

So I have noticed a leakage on this part shown below (via thanks for ascinders photo.) The leak might be from above dripage. But it looks like it is coming from the area of connection between the green piece (sorry for lack of names of parts) and the plate that it connects to. I will try to take pictures of mine tonight but it is REAL dirty underneath from a O/R trip yesterday with Joe = JKstephens on here.

I also seem or might be making up a noise now from that location when slowing down or coasting I beilive.

What could cuase this or what could be leaking onto it?

[Triathlete]

Sounds like you may have a bad seal in there allowing your diff fluid to leak out.

[Dino]

Most likely the seal in the axle housing. #6 in the drawing here...




CHECK THE FLUID LEVEL IN THE FRONT DIFF ASAP!!!!

[JHarris1385]

Where would you get a seal for that and would the seal go between the green round part and the plate? Part numbers would be nice too but thats asking for a lot. How easily replaceable is a seal there? I plan on doing my diffs and trans this weekend. I do hear noise from the front axel.

If it is not that and dripping from above what could it be? I plan to wash it well tonight and take a look agian tomorrow to further diag it. IT does seem to be oil colored.

Thanks for the help.

[Dino]

I'm pretty sure it's the axle seal. Any oil coming from above would have to get past the hot exhaust manifold and it would produce smoke. Smell the fluid and you'll know. Gear oil has a vey distinctive smell.

It's a big job involving the removal of the drive axle. The seal goes into the axle housing, then the axle goes in.

The seal is a common part and should be available in any auto parts store by application... i.e. year, make, model.

It is Timken part #710516. I checked with my parts guy here. Costs less than $20.

You have probably lost some diff oil and that's why you're hearing noise. Be sure to look at the fluid you drain from the diff for metallic glittery stuff, in which case, you've worn the gear faces on the ring and pinion gears. Not the end of everything, but not good either. Let's hope that's not the case.

Good luck!

[JHarris1385]

Not to sure if I am up to the challenge of the adding that seal? Willing to learn. How hard would that be?

I might as well go look at it tonight and change the oil? 75W90 right? How many bottles?

If it is the seal is there a temporary fix?

Thanks for the info and the diagram.

[Chopper]

You may want to go 85 or 90/140 this time of year, go back to 75/90 in winter.The job itself is a fairly complex and time consuming one. If you are totally green on 4x4 front ends, it would be a good idea to,at the very least, have some help from a bud who has cracked one before. You may want to farm this one out...it won't be cheap though. If you had the Helm manual, and a decent set of tools(snap ring pliers, torque wrench etc.) and a bunch of time, you could do it. Second time through, it goes much more quickly How are your CV's, tie rod ends,wheel bearings and such...you'll be in there anyway Good luck either way you go. Wayne

[Ascinder]

Having just done a lot of work on my front end, I can tell you that it's a PITA to replace that seal. You have to tear out a helluva lot to get at it, and while you're in there it sure wouldn't hurt to replace the inner bearings(I did) since they are pretty cheap, and after you know what this is like, you're probably not going to want to do it again. Be very careful getting your upper and lower balljoints separated. I tore two of the boots on mine, and just ended up buying four new complete units. You pill probably need a balljoint separator(AKA pickle fork) and a bearing press helps a lot too. I know mine were in plenty tight and after soaking them well in advance with PB blaster and beating on them with a 5lb. sledge for quite awhile, they still didn't want to come out. The book is goin to tell you that you need some special tools, but they can be ignored if you have a little ingenuity and some common sense. I would take a good hard look at those CV boots while you're in there. Mine were showing signs of dry rot cracking from the nasty desert I live in. Good luck.

[JHarris1385]

I would have to say I have now become completely discouraged to do this repair. I wish I was more confident with this. I would really like to learn this but am to afriad I will damage something in the process. I forgot to upload the pics I took last night. It seems like it is just not a slow leak but spinning/spitting out of the gap between the two becuase the metal above it is wet as well.

[Chopper]

Take it to a Cv/axle joint. The only downside is you won't get to do all those bearing, boot, tie rod end swaps, unless your pockets are deep.Swaping the front axles entirely is probably the cheapest and easiest way to go...I would be inclined to do both at the same time though.

[JHarris1385]

Damn now I am worried.

[Dino]

Hate to add to the injury but here's some news you should know.

It suddenly dawned on me in the middle of my day, " hey that dude has a bad bearing and that's why he's seeing fluid slinging out, AND hearing a noise. He needs to get in there soon!!!"

Yep. I think you have a bad bearing, the seal is completely worn out because of the excess play in the bearing and that's why it's leaking.

You need to do something soon!! You could do this I think. Yes it's intimidating but you can do it and you should because labor to do that seal is gonna be (educated guess) about $400 - $500.

At any rate, I think you should take action soon and at the very least, top off the diff oil!!!!!!

[Ascinder]

Man, just do it. The bearings and seals are around $70-90 from St. Charles. I don't remember offhand and that is for both sides. You'll also want to remember to order the snap rings that go in there. Tools you'll need are snap ring pliers, a fish scale for doing the outer retention rings and possibly a bearing press of some kind, all of which can be had cheaply. Plus the regular metric toolset for the VX. Not including the diff. oil you should be able to get this done for around $100 and a weekend(give or take). Just be careful in the areas already mentioned and you'll be fine. If you do plan on doing this just send me a PM and I'll give you and in depth run down in all it's gory detail. Plus you can talk smack to everyone who hasn't torn apart the front end of their vehicle before and call them little sissy nancy girls.

[IndianaVX]

john,
if you do do this....(uh hu hu, i said "do do") or any other job with lots of parts, dont be ashamed to get a vidio camera to tape things, so you can remember how it goes back easier, ive had to do it before. also, zip lock bags with the white labels to write on with a marker, for holding bolts and labeling where they go. and maybe even a big ole' piece of cardboard to lay stuff out on like a big "exploded view", and then you can make notes on the cardboard pointing to the part.....you know?? you can ususally go to a lumber yard like lowes, and in the plywood section, they sometimes have 4' x 8' pieces of cardboard to protect the plywood during shipping that they will give you. just some things ive done on complicated proceduers, that have paid off.
believe me, if you get it apart, and have something come up where a day or two pass, you can forget alot.
good luck with it.

[JHarris1385]

Well by gawd. That what I say to that. Ill be honest and give some background on me. I have never done anything past an oil change till I got this VX. SInce I have done alot and am very willing to learn more to become more confident. So I have decided to do this.

I dont have an extensive library of tools but I have been buying them as needed. I do not have an impact wrench as it was earlier stated that I need one. Is this for sure. I have snap ring pilers already. Just got them with multiple tips for the fuel pressure regulator install.

The problem is I am not good with names of parts and pieces to autos. But am once again willing to learn. So reading list of part names begins to confuse me at times. But so far I understand a good 80% of all that is mentioned.

So I need to drop this axel? How is this done? I do have two jacks and two stands.

Replace that seal. That is easily(?) found at an auto zone, O Reily's or at least on order?

And re pack my bearings?

All of which I have never done before, and the axel part and packing the bearings right kinda intimidate me. But I would rather learn and know how to next time vs. paying the bucks for a shop to do it. And I do have trust issues with things like that and I really dont have a family friend mechanic.

Would anyone have part numbers to all that is needed? Or would it be easier to take a list of what is needed to a parts store to make an order? Also it was mentioned this all could be done for under $100? Side note: I have been planning on doing some filter/fluid change to the tranny and the diffs for the last two weeks. So I might try to squeez all of this in on this weekend.

Thanks guys for all the help and support. That is what makes this site awesome. I am always talking about it. Thanks again.

?'s
Bearing pack?
Snap rings (I know what they are but where do they go and what are the numbers?)
Fish scale? We are not talking about the ones used to weigh a fish are we?

Chopper - How much does swapping it all out cost?