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Thread: Engine Oil Burning - Revisited

  1. #1
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    Engine Oil Burning - Revisited

    Many discussions have occurred on this site about the cause of oil burning in the 6VE1...theories ranged from clogged EGR, to poorly designed PCV vacuum circuit, to finally cylinder 1 faulty oil ring set...

    Had an interesting conversation with an engine remanufacturer who was providing crate 6VE1 engines.....I was basically asking whether his line incorporated service bulletins and manufacturer upgrades...so he said yes and rattled off some of the changes to that engine, which oh by the way included having to use a different type of ring set because the earlier ones were really the wrong fitment for that engine....or words to that effect

    Remember many website bloggers relating how tight lipped Isuzu was about the oil burning problem and what caused it

    This story certainly indicates that Isuzu probably made an engineering design error in its original 6VE1's

  2. #2
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    So are you saying there are fixed one's out there? I got a new engine last year.. I'd love to see if there's some number I can check on there to know if it was changed.. would be so so nice to know.

  3. #3
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    thats very interesting... tone also mentioned that his aluminum block mercedes burns about a quart every 3k which is about what my vx does, so from what ive heard from him and a couple others i think the aluminum block has something to do with it as well..

    just make sure you check your oil every fillup or at very least every other fillup and you should be fine though.. ive noticed that really nobody with a s/c or extensive performance modding has blown an engine.. my guess is because they are often under the hood checking everything so the oil doesnt get a chance to get too low


    "Engineers believe if it ain't broke, it doesn't have enough features yet"

  4. #4
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    Wink

    Quote Originally Posted by etlsport
    though.. ive noticed that really nobody with a s/c or extensive performance modding has blown an engine.. my guess is because they are often under the hood checking everything so the oil doesnt get a chance to get too low
    My VX used oil when it was stock...after I installed SC and CAI w/cone filter and put aftermarket breather filter on valve cover and change PCV every other oil change it has stopped virtually altogether. I change oil every 3k miles and it is darn near full after 3k miles. At the most it might have used 1/4 quart but mostly it is practically full @ oil change time. I did clean my EGR @ 30k miles but now have 63k miles and haven't done it again yet.

    I still do check the oil alot...usually in the driveway when I pop the hood to install the bra or at the gas station after a fill-up.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]"If its fast and reliable, its not cheap;
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  5. #5
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    Oil....

    As for my oil woes my car burns it off religously, but I also do a lot of hard driving sitting in Traffic here on the road from hell Belt P-way, and I do a lot driving back and forth to South Jersey when I go home. Sometimes after pushing real hard on a long drive say 300 miles or so I'll come up almost a quart low, but thats not the norm, I add pretty much about half to 1 quart every 3 or 4 fill ups so for me with this motor that is acceptable.
    The one thing that I did do different this time which I'm sure others on here have done was to add a full quart of Lucas Oil Stab. I changed it last week and so far I've noticed that the engine doesn't knock as much, seems to feel a little more stronger and the burn is, considering the oil levels remained the same.
    All in All though I still ride everywhere with a 5 quart jug of Castrol from Wal-mart, $17.99 in the back of the VX with a rag just in case.
    99 Ebony Black
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  6. #6
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    speaking of having to replenish oil often.. anyone else have trouble with getting their oil cap open? mine gets really really really stuck.. 9/10 times i cant open it by hand.. have asked others for help.. they couldnt get it open either.. ive started keeping a set of pipe wrench pliers in my vx to get the cap open after using a grip pad (aka mouse pad) and nearly sprained my wrist trying to open the stupid cap.. it was sore for like 3 days

    anything i can do about that?

  7. #7
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    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by etlsport
    speaking of having to replenish oil often.. anyone else have trouble with getting their oil cap open? mine gets really really really stuck.. 9/10 times i cant open it by hand.. have asked others for help.. they couldnt get it open either.. ive started keeping a set of pipe wrench pliers in my vx to get the cap open after using a grip pad (aka mouse pad) and nearly sprained my wrist trying to open the stupid cap.. it was sore for like 3 days

    anything i can do about that?
    Don't crank it down so tight. After the rubber washer makes contact, 1/4 turn or a little less is plenty to keep it in place.

  8. #8
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    i dont think i crank it down very tight.. but ill try making sure i only go about 1/4 turn and see if that helps... thanks dub

  9. #9
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    I just heard on trucks 4x4 on Spike this weekend that oil burning is caused by the rings. But the rings only fail due to the different expansions rates of aluminum and steel.

  10. #10
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    EnginesDirect

    The guy I talked to was at Engines Direct....they currently have some remanned 6VE1 engines on ebay...and apparently sell remanned engines across the Country to numerous dealers, etc

    He mentioned they had to replace the stock rings with a different type to fix oil burning.....

    Their crate engines are all new parts with upgrades for $3400 less core of $425, shipping is $150.....warranty 3 yrs/unlimited miles

    Here is their 800 number: 1-800-998-2100

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