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Thread: rear door knobs

  1. #16
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    Well i saw the rough proto type's today and i love them...
    no longer hollow and look real nice but i only got to try them out then they ran off with them.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rene M View Post
    Well i saw the rough proto type's today and i love them...
    no longer hollow and look real nice but i only got to try them out then they ran off with them.
    any word on the price?
    My cow died last night ......so I don't need your bull!




  3. #18
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    bump

  4. #19
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    I just ordered 5 of them from Merlin for about $4 each I think. I didn't even think about the color....

    I guess I will have to see what comes in the mail. The dowel idea is a good one.

    Also, I have been thinking about an alternative to these made from large thumb screws with rubber ends (I'd have to post a photo). Basically, just tack weld a few bolts of the appropriate size to that metal bracket that houses the female part of the screw, and then use an appropriate thumbscrew to match. The only tricky part would be finding a piece to hold the screws in there once they are loosened....

    Bart

  5. #20
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    bump

  6. #21
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by nfpgasmask View Post
    Also, I have been thinking about an alternative to these made from large thumb screws with rubber ends (I'd have to post a photo). Basically, just tack weld a few bolts of the appropriate size to that metal bracket that houses the female part of the screw, and then use an appropriate thumbscrew to match. The only tricky part would be finding a piece to hold the screws in there once they are loosened....

    Bart
    I hear ya cluckin' Red Rooster...

    I've had an alternative to the stock "E-Z breaks" in the works for months, but it's become kind of a back burner project.
    I found some rather large cap screws, & by large I mean the heads on these things are nearly as large as the stock e-z breaks.
    Anyway, rather than tack weld anything, I epoxied the proper size nuts to washers that I'm going to pop rivet in place on the bacl side of the female part of the stock location.
    Is this making any sense ???

    Just throwin it out there as an E-Z alternative to welding. (not that there's anything wrong with that)

    Excuse me, that Sienfeld reference didn't go unnoticed, did it ?

    I'll try to post some pics tomorrow.

  7. #22
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    I had no problems with broken knobs. but one of the plastic sockets that the knob mounts to inside the door .. a tab broke off of that...

    Thoughts aside from epoxy to mount it in place?
    ~ ~ ~
    Van Eyes - slightly trimmed, Sylvania SilverStar ULTRA head lamps, Red (port) & green (starboard) 5 LED 'headlight horn' lights, PIAA silicone windshield wipers, K&N Filtercharger (in stock air box), MacNeil WeatherFlectors, Assorted cargo nets from previous vehicles, Optima red-top battery, Transmission Interceptor, 20 LED 'light tower' turn signals & brake lights, 18W PIAA W2 running lights, Trooper skid plates, Black Luverne step bars w/Tone's custom brackets

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub View Post
    I hear ya cluckin' Red Rooster...

    I've had an alternative to the stock "E-Z breaks" in the works for months, but it's become kind of a back burner project.
    I found some rather large cap screws, & by large I mean the heads on these things are nearly as large as the stock e-z breaks.
    Anyway, rather than tack weld anything, I epoxied the proper size nuts to washers that I'm going to pop rivet in place on the bacl side of the female part of the stock location.
    Is this making any sense ???

    Just throwin it out there as an E-Z alternative to welding. (not that there's anything wrong with that)

    Excuse me, that Sienfeld reference didn't go unnoticed, did it ?

    I'll try to post some pics tomorrow.
    Yeah, basically the same idea, except I figured a weld would hold better in the long run, whereas epoxy may eventually break. By this summer I should have a nice garage and a welding setup so I might just do this. The only drawback is the cap screws will come free when you remove the trim piece. But, I would rather have something heavy duty.

    Bart

    PS - Having a welding setup will probably result in a lot of things...

  9. #24
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    Anybody ever get these made, delivered and installed?
    OEM roof rack, Thule Xpedition 696 rack, Rancho RS9000 shocks, OME 913 coil springs, 3" lift, American Racing Teflon Chambers wheels, Yokohama Geolandar HT/S G051 tires (275/70/16), Energy Suspension greaseable bushings, steel-braided Kevlar-reinforced brake lines, WeatherTech wind deflectors, Malibu 18w driving lights, Plasma SuperWhite 100w headlights, NGK Iridium plugs, K&N drop-in air filter, Optima Red Top, Psychos2 rear-door subwoofer enclosure w/CDT Audio 10" sub, Blaupunkt subwoofer amp, iPod Video 80GB, Kenwood KVT-617 DVD head unit w/7" motorized touch-screen, Kenwood GPS HD navigation module, Kenwood iPod adapter, Kenwood back-up camera, Sirius radio, Flowmaster Extreme Off-Road muffler (black diamond-plate steel) w/ carbon fiber tip, Ford Taurus OEM cup-holder/coin tray (single-DIN/lower bay), personalized license plate "ORBITAL", 3M window tint, debadged, removed rear seat, custom 'radiation symbol' side magnetic signs, VX Concepts front skid plate

  10. #25
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    Eric, do you still need one? I do have one red on left, but I painted it black. You could probably strip the black paint off with some thinner or acetone. If you want it, let me know.

    Bart

  11. #26
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    Hi Bart!

    Thanks, but I already ordered some extras from Merlin. Hopefully I'll get the red ones, since there seems to be some confusion regarding the actual part numbers...

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