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Thread: Rear speaker replacement

  1. #16
    Member Since
    Jun 2002
    Location
    2001 Proton VX 0790
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    801
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    Creative FR-125's, fullrange crossoverless speaker.



    I made a plate to use the whole rear fender as a sealed box. I also stuffed the opening with fiberglass batting to dampen the panels.



    John C.

  2. #17
    Member Since
    Jun 2003
    Location
    2001, Green, VX, 0602
    Posts
    107
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    OK, so I am in the same boat and think I have 3 blown speakers.
    Here are my questions before I replace everything:
    1) I remember someone suggested a cheaper alternative to Dynamat called something like "Breadboard." Is there a quality or durability issue going with the cheaper alternative?
    2) It looks like a hole for a 6x9 speaker could be cut into that bracket which, in my novice mind, would give a richer sound. Am I wrong on this?
    3) No one has answered about the need (or not) to get an amp. For someone who doesn't need to have anyone but the persons in the VX hear my music, is an amp necessary if I just want a clean sound? Is MOSFET technology built in a head unit a decent alternative?
    Thanks in advance for any advice/answers you stereophiles can provide.
    don't hate

  3. #18
    Member Since
    Feb 2006
    Location
    2001,Kaiser Silver, VX, 0563
    Posts
    4,767
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    you dont really need 6x9s in the rear for sq.. only thing they will really do is add some bass and if u plan to have a subwoofer no real reason for more... just ask biju.. i beleive hes perfected the art of rear fill


    "Engineers believe if it ain't broke, it doesn't have enough features yet"

  4. #19
    Member Since
    Jul 2006
    Location
    1999. Unique Ironman
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    405
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    anyone done more than 4 speakers? and is there any point of that?
    P.S i have Polk Audio db6500 in my front doors and i like them but the back is still stock and it sounds just fine.

  5. #20
    Member Since
    Apr 2003
    Location
    1999 Astral Silver 1222
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    343
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    I was running a temporary 6 6.5" setup to try, but unless you are already pushing max watts on the original 4 and need to add more, you're better off having the original 4 with more power for clarity,volume. I tested with 1 4 channel amp(75w/ch. , and one 5 channel amp( so thats 9 channels 1 for front tweets (whoa!- 75w on those puppies!), 1 for front 6.5", 1 for rear 6.5s, 1 for auxiliary 6.5" in the back door, one for subs. I was able to bridge one 4to2 channel amp to the front for 150w/ch., and another bridged 4to2 channel for the rear at 200w/ch. Plenty good, but the 5th sub channel was bought for 2 10", not that powerful running 2 12". eventually going to run 1 12" from it, and get another mono amp to run one 8". Should be a truly full range setup at that point. two tweets front, two 6.5" front, two 2-way 6.5" rear, one 8", one 12" that may move into rear door. Im just trying to use up all my junk lol.

    My recommendation would be speakers now, sit on a nice unpowered, deadhead deck, maybe 1 5channel amp, 1 sub. something that incorporates sub controls or at least eq from deck, and put in all together later. Good sound, not expensive, stealth, and good quality albeit not earth-shaking- just high quality. This way youll be putting maximum watts per speaker to yield really good sound from them. Its better than having lots of speakers for volume, but putting mediocre power to them.

  6. #21
    Member Since
    Feb 2006
    Location
    2001,Kaiser Silver, VX, 0563
    Posts
    4,767
    Thanked: 0
    here is the rear panel w/ speaker in it still


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