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Thread: Rear speaker replacement

  1. #1
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    Rear speaker replacement

    Well, I did it....I melted a rear speaker down. It really didn't seem to take much. I rarely listen to music in a vehicle, so I guess they have never been tested They don't like late eighties industrial/tech, prog-rock, distortion- noise at all. What can I replace these with??? I'm looking for a direct replacement, plug an play answer. I've no idea what is in there....no problem with upgrading...that's why the post. I want something better, Just not interested in cutting anything to get it. The up side is, I will make a day of it... while I have all the rear plastic out (the seats have been out since 2001) I'll recover the headliner (and remove the dome light I don't use anyway) A nice light/medium grey alcantara...maybe suede. I digress... What speakers will fit??? Thank you, in advance....Wayne

  2. #2
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    I am with you on the rear speaker replacement. I actually have blown three of the four of my stock speakers in the past two months and really hating life with no speakers working. I wish I could trust somesone locally to replace mine but just have not found someone since all on the forum say it is a real bear to do.

  3. #3
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    Speaker preferences tend to be pretty subjective depending on who answers and the type(s) of music they listen to most of the time. The last time I listened to some display models, my preference was POLK speakers.

    If you do end up removing the dome light and don't think you'll have further need for it, I'd be interested in taking it off your hands for adding a rear light when I get around to installing the hatch popper I still have boxed up around here somewhere.

  4. #4
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    wayne.. you should dynamat while youre in there.. adds a bit of weight.. but i love the quieting of the road noise

    you will need 4" speakers... ive seen some made by mtx and infinity

    just measured the speakers rear speakers ive got laying around.. looks like the radius of the circle the mounting holes make is 4-7/8" so the cutout diameter of the speakers you choose should be a little smaller than that
    Last edited by etlsport : 10/24/2007 at 05:33 PM


    "Engineers believe if it ain't broke, it doesn't have enough features yet"

  5. #5
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    LOL Chopper, my speakers like all the late 80s, early 90s, industrial-noise, euro-trash, new-wave, minimal-synth and aggro-tech I pump through. It must be that damned prog-rock, cause I don't listen to any of that...

    - Bart

    PS - Seriously though, I kinda want to swap out all my speakers also, since they are just a little on the blown side. I wish I could afford and had the space for a custom Biju sound system.

  6. #6
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    I'll second what TREK said. Polk speakers are high quality & reliable.

  7. #7
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    It is a real bear back there. Personally with the time involved, do it all at once is my advice. Polk audio rocks. dont bother with 4" unless speakers is the only upgrade you plan. Just modify the metal bracket under the rear interior to mount 6.5". I just cut a section out of the middle and widened the hole. Then, youll have 4 6.5" speakers. You could also just buy 4 of the same 6.5" components, mount the front tweets where the stock tweeters are, and in the back you can run the wire behind the paneling and have them hang out above the black trim above the rear door and face them forward discreetly using velcro to mount them. No holes drilled. I also second the dynamat, etc. but I didnt have the funds or time when I did mine. Shouldn't take more than 3 hours for just the speaker swap. However, the rear speaker placement is really inferior. If you have the time, I would also build a box, dynamat, or something to get the sound out from behind the rear panel. I imagine 50% of the sound is lost in there. Its basically an free-air speaker.

  8. #8
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    Question

    Definately think I will go with 4 6.5's Polks as well and ready to move on this project. Any rec on need for amp, or will stock deck push Polk speakers or maybe just a new deck with built in amp?

  9. #9
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    I'd love to see the mount before I tear the interior out, but I'm pretty creative...I'm thinking a little tweaking, get a pair of six an a halfs in there.. and Dynamat the whole mess while I have the sides and headliner out. Couple of extra pounds won't really matter...the seats have never been in, so I'm still ahead. The rest is just brand name

  10. #10
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    heres a pic of mine before i cut it open.. thats the passengers side i beleive


  11. #11
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    and here is a pic of the rear speaker mount with a 6.5" speaker in there


  12. #12
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    Do the front door speakers need to be shallow mount? I want the Polks but what series should I focus on? I was leaning toward db651's 6.5's all the way around. Liiks like crutchfield indicates fronts need to be shallow mount. Any suggestions on series of Polks?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by VXNIT View Post
    Do the front door speakers need to be shallow mount? I want the Polks but what series should I focus on? I was leaning toward db651's 6.5's all the way around. Liiks like crutchfield indicates fronts need to be shallow mount. Any suggestions on series of Polks?
    these mount with no mods in the front door. they arent polks but, they are pretty close to top of the line.

    http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pn...263623,00.html

    i get them for $350+shipping all day long
    My cow died last night ......so I don't need your bull!




  14. #14
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    Cool

    1. While dynamatting also stuff the void between the exterior metal skin and inner metal skin with poly fill. Lots of holes to do that. It'll take a few bags if you do it all.

    2. Watch out for depth when putting those rear speakers in, it's a bit tight. If you cut the metal bracket larger, you may want to consider offsetting the opening higher so the speakers are not touching the wheel well at the bottom end.

    My $0.02...

  15. #15
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    yea you need low profile speakers for the back more than the front.. i have really shallow mount 6.5s back there and i didnt have room to dynamat under the magnet because it was that close to the wheel well

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