1/4 mile track times

[IsuZOOM]

Originally posted by SGT.BATGUANO
is high 15s the theoretical best with his setup?

According to the dyno chart on our engine (or perhaps a similar 2.5L in an Axiom) the SC gives you 45 hp ($70-90 per horse [after installation] !). Given a stocker should run around a 17.2 e.t., a car with 45 more horses should run about 16.0 e.t.

Those are mathematical equations, assuming the same weight, tires, barometric pressure, altitude, etc.

[SGT.BATGUANO]

So, since he was running 16.7 stock and 16.6 with PV and Interceptor then the s/c is only good for .5 in the 1/4?

[Spike]

Y'all seem to forget how heavy the VX is... and that we are running a fairly well tuned 6-cyl.

To slice a whole second (and then some) off of any vehicle's 1/4 mi. with these upgrades, and still have it streetable (and off-roadable) is still impressive.

Just out of curiosity, does anyone have 0-60 and 0-100 times before and after their interceptor/SC/PV/K&N mods?

[IsuZOOM]

Not the 0-60, but the e.t.'s are posted here. For Alaska, the muffler didn't drop his time even by a tenth.

[Spike]

Guess that brings us back to the old claim:

The Jargon Dictionary entry:
http://info.astrian.net/jargon/terms..._may_vary.html

Your mileage may vary
Your mileage may vary cav. [from the standard disclaimer attached to EPA mileage ratings by American car manufacturers] 1. A ritual warning often found in Unix freeware distributions. Translates roughly as "Hey, I tried to write this portably, but who knows what'll happen on your system?" 2. More generally, a qualifier attached to advice. "I find that sending flowers works well, but your mileage may vary."

[AlaskaVX]

Thanx for all the responses, now for my bit.
Yes the VX kicks into 4th before the end and it just won't accel once it hits it.
As for the gas I was planning on using a half tank 92 and a half to 1/4 tank of 112. I have tried to leave it in 3rd but it will still kick into 4th for some reason. I actually haven't put it in 3rd with the SC yet, maybe it will stay in 3rd for longer than before?

Spike, I couldn't understand your jargon

I'm sure that I will hit high 15's once I get to do some more runs, my first few runs are never my best anyway.

Jolly Roger, I have already changed my tires back over to the stock ones, and it made a .12 difference

Heres a question, If I was to disconnect the front drive shaft, will the TOD still be running and take power away from the rear wheels? If so I can install that TOD on/off switch. I also would like to disconnect my rear breaks so I could burn them at the track Is there an easy way to disable the rear breaks? There is a guy that takes proffesional pictures out there and I would love to have a picture of my VX burning some rubber!

[SGT.BATGUANO]

Originally posted by Spike
Y'all seem to forget how heavy the VX is... and that we are running a fairly well tuned 6-cyl.

To slice a whole second (and then some) off of any vehicle's 1/4 mi. with these upgrades, and still have it streetable (and off-roadable) is still impressive.

First, we're not talking about a second, and then some. We're talking about 1/2 of a second, if that much.

Second, if I put 3 grand+ into a V-6, 3700 lb. Grand National, rated at 245 hp (stock) , we're cutting off close to or more than 2 seconds . GSCA has a 12 sec./ $ 1000 recipe for thr T-T GN.

Probably not the best comparison considering the G.N. already has a turbo and 3.42 gearing. Just food for thought. I figure the s/c to provide 45 hp @ $66/ horse.

[SGT.BATGUANO]

Alaska,

At what rpm does it shift out of 3rd?

Originally posted by AlaskaVX
If I was to disconnect the front drive shaft, will the TOD still be running and take power away from the rear wheels?

Yes

Is there an easy way to disable the rear breaks?


I would think that after you disable the front drivetrain, a rear only burnout shouldn't be too difficult, since the front brakes should come in before the rears. You should be able to stall or brake torque it. That being said. if you still need less rear brake action...

......AT YOUR OWN RISK!.......

Either remove rear pads and fabricate a bracket to hold the pistons in, ( don't they tech your vehicle before they let you run? They'll flag you if they find out your rear brakes are disabled)

or..

Oil your rear pads for the exhibition. Then clean rotors thoroughly with brake cleaner / replace pads after burnout session.

Warning!

The first 2 methods will diminish your braking effectiveness and should not be used at speeds over 20 M.P.H. or for anything other then exhibition purposes. Do not drive on the street or race the vehicle under these conditions!!!!!!!!!!!

or..

Invest in a line lock to lock/ unlock the front brakes at the push of a button (they're pretty cheap, install will probably cost more than parts) . Makes a good anti-theft device when wired to a constant 12 volt source too.

There is a guy that takes proffesional pictures out there and I would love to have a picture of my VX burning some rubber!

DISCLAIMER! I will not be responsible for anyone who kills themselves using the first 2 methods, the information is provided for conversational, theoretical, educational and entertainment purposes only!

[IsuZOOM]

Originally posted by IsuZOOM
the SC gives you 45 hp ($70-90 per horse [after installation] !)

Originally posted by SGT.BATGUANO
I figure the s/c to provide 45 hp @ $66/ horse.

Well, the SC itself costs $3,000. But I doubt most people are installing this themselves, so figure $150-1,050 for installation In rough calculations of other mods, that's pretty high. An air intake would be probably $20-40 per hp. The PV promises only $9 per hp.

[IsuZOOM]

Originally posted by SGT.BATGUANO
DISCLAIMER! I will not be responsible ...

Tell that to this guy

[Spike]

I think someone needs to slide a small block V-8 under the hood to get the kind of HP needed to blow other vehicles off the road (or if you are off road already, blow them back onto the street)

Hey if you can fit a NorthStar into a Fiero I am sure there is something that can be fabricated to fit.

[AlaskaVX]

Originally posted by SGT.BATGUANO
Alaska,
At what rpm does it shift out of 3rd?

I'm actually not sure, I'll have to get back to you on that

I would think that after you disable the front drivetrain, a rear only burnout shouldn't be too difficult, since the front brakes should come in before the rears. You should be able to stall or brake torque it. That being said. if you still need less rear brake action...

Stall or brake torque it? Do you mean powerbrake it? I feel horrible powerbraking any car, especially my VX!

Invest in a line lock to lock/ unlock the front brakes at the push of a button (they're pretty cheap, install will probably cost more than parts) . Makes a good anti-theft device when wired to a constant 12 volt source too.

So this completely locks the fronts? So I just hit a switch and the fronts are locked and the rears are not touching therefore lots-o-smoke? This sounds like what I'm looking for! Any ideas where to find it? How much knowledge is needed to install it myself? How much money for the setup? How much would ya guesstimate a shop would charge to install?

Thanks SGT. BATGUANO, great info!

Hey Spike, BOARZHEAD is actually debating putting a V8 Northstar in there since he is having a lot of problems with the sensors.

Isuzoom, go ahead and get your intake and exhaust, you need to get behind the wheel of a SCed VX and feel the difference, it has sooooooooo much more than it did. It was worth it! Once you hit the 3,500 rpm mark it just starts taking off even when your taking your foot off the gas!

[WyrreJ]

Originally posted by AlaskaVX
Isuzoom, go ahead and get your intake and exhaust, you need to get behind the wheel of a SCed VX and feel the difference, it has sooooooooo much more than it did. It was worth it! Once you hit the 3,500 rpm mark it just starts taking off even when your taking your foot off the gas!

Wow, the SC turns our VX into an AUDI?

[SGT.BATGUANO]

Originally posted by WyrreJ
Wow, the SC turns our VX into an AUDI?

Jer, I didn't see a smilie at the end of your post.

[SGT.BATGUANO]

Originally posted by AlaskaVX
I'm actually not sure, I'll have to get back to you on that


Stall or brake torque it? Do you mean powerbrake it?

yes. hold the brakes 'till you overcome the stall of the convertor.


So this completely locks the fronts?

Yes, the one's I'm familiar with use a button. When pushed, with the brakes applied it locks the appropriate brake(s) when hit next, it releases the brake(s).

So I just hit a switch and the fronts are locked and the rears are not touching therefore lots-o-smoke?

Yes.

Any ideas where to find it?

Try a speed shop for install. You can probably find the part in the Summit catalogue.

How much knowledge is needed to install it myself?

Can you double-flare tubing?

How much money for the setup?

How much would ya guesstimate a shop would charge to install?

Under 400, I should hope



[/B]