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Thread: VX Engine Removal (pictures link) (autopsy complete)

  1. #1
    Member Since
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    Lightbulb VX Engine Removal (pictures link) (autopsy complete)

    The engine is out

    This is a link to a flat directory of pictures as I haven't taken the time to resize them yet. They're pretty big:
    http://tobert.org/gallery/vx-engine/

    With some creative work with a ton of extensions, the engine can be removed without removing the transmission or the exhaust (which the manual recommends). I did all of this with no air tools due to the lack of an air compressor.

    The big parts to remove are the radiator, intake manifold, starter, A/C compressor, power steering pump, and alternator. Because my engine is seized, I had to pull the torque converter out of the transmission with the engine. All of the bell housing bolts except the top two can be removed from underneath with a good swivel and a lot of extensions. A "wobbly" extension helps too.

    More to come after I get an engine stand and start disassembling the broken engine. I'll post in this thread.
    Last edited by Tobert : 12/15/2007 at 08:58 PM Reason: update subject

  2. #2
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    I look forward to the autopsy/necropsy results

  3. #3
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    Exclamation Autopsy report: sheared off crank

    Autopsy report: sheared off crank

    http://tobert.org/gallery/vx-engine/DSCF6262.JPG
    http://tobert.org/gallery/vx-engine/DSCF6264.JPG
    http://tobert.org/gallery/vx-engine/DSCF6265.JPG
    http://tobert.org/gallery/vx-engine/DSCF6266.JPG

    It seized because a chunk of the crank got wedged between the crank pieces and cylinder #1. There aren't any signs of oil starvation at this point (it was at the full mark before I drained it). No overheating. Just a punch of speed to pass somebody and kaboom. Maybe an over-machined and under-treated crank?

    What blows me away is that it ran for a while after the initial "ca-chunk" sound. I took a chance and drove it another 10 miles after the "chunk."

    The block might be reusable with a new crank, but I'm not gonna try it. I marred it up a bit trying to get the front of the crank out, so it's probably destroyed permanently now, if the crank breaking didn't do it. Any semblance of alignment is very unlikely. Maybe I'll make one of those glass-topped coffee tables out of it.

  4. #4
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    Doing some googling ... Hmm I'll take the heads off tomorrow. Maybe a head gasket blew at the wrong moment and caused hydrolock.

  5. #5
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    I think if you would of hydrolocked it, you would see some
    bent rods more so.
    Ive seen cranks just break on motors, its happens more then
    I expected to see. Seeing as they are just cast and not steel.
    How many miles where on your motor when it happened ?
    I had a crank split in two on a 70 Cougar I had in high school
    just pulling out of my driveway. I use to street race the car but
    when it broken I was barely doing 20 mph.

    Personally you could maybe rebuild or fix that motor, but has
    anyone priced a new shortblock from the dealer at any sort of
    wholesale level yet ?

  6. #6
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    99 Astral Silver VX #1872 + 99 Ironman WIP
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    Man...that looks grim.

  7. #7
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    You going to freshen the new/ used engine at all, or just plug it in and hope for the best? I'd sure be thinking, new head and intake gaskets(at the very least) while it's out. Who am I kiddin?? I'd do the oil pump(probably the whole bottom end) , water pump, timing belt, and get a new EGR tube. Now's a real good time to mount a tranny dipstick as well. Doing all this, won't cost but a few hundred bucks, and a day or two. Could even buff an' polish those intake runners, and toss that dopey plastic cover (as frustrating as it is...engine failure is almost always opportunity thinly disguised:bwgr

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chopper View Post
    You going to freshen the new/ used engine at all, or just plug it in and hope for the best? I'd sure be thinking, new head and intake gaskets(at the very least) while it's out. Who am I kiddin?? I'd do the oil pump(probably the whole bottom end) , water pump, timing belt, and get a new EGR tube. Now's a real good time to mount a tranny dipstick as well. Doing all this, won't cost but a few hundred bucks, and a day or two. Could even buff an' polish those intake runners, and toss that dopey plastic cover (as frustrating as it is...engine failure is almost always opportunity thinly disguised:bwgr
    I've thought about it and I probably won't mess with the long block at all. I'll probably put a new timing set & water pump on. The oil pump on my blown engine only has about 5k on it, so I'll probably pull it apart and see if I can transfer it. I'm also going to order a couple other hard-to-access parts from Merlin like the thermostat. Maybe the knock sensor if it's not too expensive. My EGR tube is black, but it's not plugged at all.

    I'm working out of the garage of my apartment. I don't have an air compressor or any good way to clean parts. I could send the heads/intake in for cleaning, but I really don't have time or energy for that right now. I might send the intake out to be machine cleaned.

    I will look up what's involved with mounting a tranny dipstick though - good idea.

  9. #9
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    Ouch!
    Live Free or DIE!

  10. #10
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    Interesting, but frightening. Thanks for sharing. Keep the pics/info coming and good luck with the rebuild/swap/etc.

    Bart

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