The way it sheared, it looks like a defective bearing (but I'm no expert).
-- John
The way it sheared, it looks like a defective bearing (but I'm no expert).
-- John
John Eaton
Original Owner
2001 Proton Yellow #580
Atlanta GA
http://wildtoys.com/vehicross/
http://vehicross.blogspot.com/
"Metaphors be with you"
had to get the lawers in this. he is calling the insurrance commisioner today.
why cant people just be honest insted of triing to screw the little guy all the time...
i just want my truck back.
My cow died last night ......so I don't need your bull!
the warrenty company wanted to have the top part of the engine torn apart. for some reason they wouldnt tell me that, soooo i quess any progress is good progress.
now that i have the motor out of the vx, what should be replaced on the 3.5 now? (besides the parts that are broken.)
front suspension system and axle, transmission, engine, transfer case, driveshafts, tires...
Sent from my "two hands on a keyboard"
Always, always, always replace the torque converter seal when you have an engine out. Sometimes just the mucking about can ruin them and it's just so easy while the engine is out.
If you're getting the crank reground, etc. I'd recommend a new oil pump since you either have to pull the engine or the front axle to replace it.
If you get the crank ground at all make EXTRA sure they nitride it & stuff or you'll be sorry. I'd try really hard to find a "new old stock" crank - I think I've seen them listed on a few auto parts sites.
The 3.5 requires new head bolts, since they're torque-to-yield. I've seen kits on Ebay for much cheaper than the dealer charges, so be sure to get those sooner than later. It also calls for new torque converter bolts, but you can get those from the Help! section at Autozone, etc..
A lot of people like to replace valve seals & stuff when they have the heads out of a car. Personally I don't mess with them unless it has been blowing smoke. If you do go after them, just pay a shop to recondition the heads - they'll come back in near-brand-new condition and be sure to seal properly the first time.
I bought one of those gasket sets from Ebay when I first tore into my engine right after I bought it. The intake gaskets that come with that kit are crap, but the head gaskets seem to have held up OK. If I had to do it over, I'd order an OEM kit or something like Felpro.
Good luck!
thanks. printed....(not yours zeus!!!!)
anything else?
Think about a Tranny dip-stick - easier to add while it's out of the VX.
-- John
Oil pump, egr tube, and water pump are things I have heard mentioned before as well. Check Dino's posts for working on the fuel pressure regulator too - should be easier with the motor out.
got a call from the mechanic today. the inspector for the warrenty company is out there looking at it.. i really hope they dont try to screw me!
theyre trying to screw me. they said because there was mud in the engine compartment they wont cover it. gotta get the lawers in on this again.
What a lame excuse! "It appears you have been driving this moon buggy on earth... we found mud... yes MUD!" So what!? Are you not allowed to drive down muddy roads? What if you have acreage in Florida are you not going to have mud there? Sorry man, I am prob'ly just fueling the fire. GOOD LUCK!
thats actually what i told the guy that called me from the warrenty company. minus the part about the moon buggy. the companies name is intercontinental warrenty services inc. i hope none of you actually have this company because they are horrible to deal with!!! and if you have this company get a refund before something bad happens!!
The problem with warrenty compainies seems systemic.
I once was told that a high pressure line (hard tubing) would not be covered because it was a hose.
Another time they wouldn't repair play in the steering because it was a drive train issue (different warrenty).
Oh well, hope you get better resolution than I did.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Put a smiley after you say that Bub.