Knocking After warming Up

[Mrcln1]

Remanufactured Engine with only 4k miles. When first started it's as quiet as a church mouse. After warming up or revving it has a bottom end knock. No oil consumption. Started hearing what sounded like a loose heat sheild about a thousand miles ago on decel and light pedal pressure. Now once warm or revving it sounds like knocking from the bottom front. Since theres no knock at initial startup can I save this engine?

Thanks Alot,

Mrcln1

[navistar]

It wouldn't still be under some kind of warranty from the remanufacturer, would it? Or a warranty from the installer? Might not be a bad idea to let the installer hear the sound just because it's not a bad idea.

[Mrcln1]

A friend of mine installed it. I don't think he ever wants to see it again. It gave him a hell of a time.lol From my experiences working on it I don't blame him one bit. It has a 100,000 mile warranty. I'm gonna take it to either a local import mechanic or the dealer in a town about 50 miles away to have it looked at. I can't believe this would happen 4k in and right after my original motor went at 117k. I thought maybe since it has to warm up first I'd be able to salvage it. I honestly just want to get rid of it now. I had a hard time trusting it before but now it's definitely gone once it's running ok again. I'm just trying to get an idea what I'm up against. I'm all ready in the hole from giving it second chance at life. The warranty pays around $50 dollars an hour labor. I'm sure the dealer or any other good shop will charge more than that so I'll be out even more. Still open to suggestions though.

Thanks,

Mrcln1

[navistar]

I think it's important to have it looked at by a CERTIFIED mechanic, ASAP. It might not be death throes. Based on that, you could look at the terms of the warranty assuming you still have the warranty paperwork and contact the remanufacturer. Ask the mechanic how to proceed. I had multiple knocks and noise in the engine of a Rodeo and my mechanic said there was a key or something at the front of the crankshaft somewhere and he fixed it. Said the crank was out of position. I don't remember exactly. Any way, he could have hit me up for a new engine for thousands but the fix was just a couple or three hundred dollars. I sold it to my sister and it's still running years later. Got almost 200,000 miles on it.

Of course, the alternative is to do nothing and see if it gets worse.

[Tobert]

My wife's Subaru had a similar problem. The front pulley bolt had come loose or something then it beat the key out until there was a really wide keyway in the pulley. I got a new pulley from the junk yard and it's all good again now. Loctite is your friend

If you're running 5w30 or 10w30, it should have oil pressure almost immediately upon starting and not drop unless the engine is in really, really bad condition. Your oil light would be coming on in that case. The best way to tell bottom end knock that I learned as a kid is to rev the engine a little and listen for hammering as the rpm's come back down. The theory is that if a rod journal is hammering, it'll hammer more when rpm's are normalizing than when under load.

Other things to check are torque converter bolts, flexplate bolts, and fan clutch. I just noticed last week that the service manual says never to reuse the torque converter bolts. I'm not sure why that is, as it's always worked for me in the past. I'm ordering new ones when my engine goes in, though.

I know that feeling of frustration.

[WILLY]

Check that egr valve nut under the egr,when loose or not put back in they tend to make a noise similar to an engine knock,mine did.

[Mrcln1]

Started it again today to keep the battery from dying and it's completely silent until you rev it a little. Weird.

[Ldub]

Check that egr valve nut under the egr,when loose or not put back in they tend to make a noise similar to an engine knock,mine did.

Did you check this? It would be very easy to overlook upon installation, & it's not uncommon for the EGR nut to vibrate loose.
Many here won't leave home without a 22mm "stubby" wrench in the glove box.

[Rene M]

Sounds more like a fuel knock.
If it is fix it soon or you will be installing a new motor, again.