I applied the silicon (as always, about once per month on schedule) and it has not fixed the problem. Thanks however.
Any other suggestions?
I applied the silicon (as always, about once per month on schedule) and it has not fixed the problem. Thanks however.
Any other suggestions?
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Ty
wrap a credit card in a paper towel and swipe it through the channel a few times to clear the gunk out... adding more and more silicon will eventually make it pretty grimy in there im sure so some of the buildup isnt helping im sure.. i havent had any major window problems in probably a year, maybe more all i do is spray in some Jig a Loo (orange can from home depot) once every month or two and if i feel it start to slow down at all, break out the ol credit card and paper towel (also used the back end of a fork once but eh) and usually the paper towel comes out pretty dirty, if you are feeling really ambitious you could pull the door panel off and clean the bottom of the tracks too.. probably help keep it clean for longer good luck!
That is correct. Periodically remove the tracks and clean them of all lubricants, then apply a fresh layer of your favorite (We like white lithium grease for the tracks, and sillicone for the runners)
Rubber looses a lot of flexiblity when it gets cold, so a bit of slowness at the top of the window's travel is to be expected.
Cleaning the tracks, both in the window frame and behind the door panel will help. Remove that cheap factory grease and put in some clean lithium lube (I use white grease). I have experimented with White Lightning before too -a little messy to apply, but it seemed to work.
Also, there's a moisture issue. If any condensation gets in the door panel (if you removed/tore those plastic vapor barriers behind the panel) there will be a moisture issue inside of the door skin. This contributed to the occasional cold weather related failure of my passenger side door lock (water would collect within the gearing, freezing up the works, and preventing the lock from moving). This also slowed my window travel.
If everything is dry and lubed, you won't have a problem. Once everything behind the skin is cleaned up, you can replace that vapor barrier with some Visqueen sheeting and a little flashing caulk.
Once I had the mechanics of the door completely separated from the heat of the interior, all of my problems disappeared.
Windows and locks operated smoothly to beyond -50F.
Didn't Kenny or someone disassemble their lock mechanism & found it was VERY corroded? If you had water in yours, you may want to search for that thread.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Put a smiley after you say that Bub.
My lock mechanism was very corroded.
The freezing water actually split the case open.
It was rebuildable, after the motor was cleaned up. I had to get creative with the casing though.
The worst part of the whole thing was when this mechanism froze, it prevented the door handle from opening the door (from the inside too). Not cool at all.
Dang frozen water. Ruins everything.