Did you ever do any diagnostics on the ABS module to determine why the light came on?
Did you ever do any diagnostics on the ABS module to determine why the light came on?
mine came on after the stainless steel lines went on.. but a good long time after. it seemed to be affected by temperature.. the colder it was the more the abs worked.. until one day it just stopped working all together.. i have the module.. but no real motivation to install it since i have never had a close call due to lack of abs
I lost my VX's abs when I fitted a new set of drilled and slotted rotors which I bought from the US, can't remember the supplier's name though.
It wasn't the rotors fault but the pads they supplied with the rotors and my mechanic who chose to ignore my instructions to fit a pair at a time and fitted all 4 at once.
Everybody had their own thoughts as to why the brakes had gone 'soft' and no abs, they were so bad as to be dangerous as no matter how hard I stood on the pedal it would take far too long to stop, but I suggested fitting 1 pair of the old pads to a front brake to see and suddenly the brakes started to come back!
After fitting the old front pads and a set of new rear standard pads everything was fine again and still is 2 years later.
The supplier, whose name I shall post when I find it, denied this could happen suggesting that we had done something wrong but wanted me to return the new pads to the manufacturer in the US as it was his problem not theirs!
As I'm in the UK shipping costs and no guarantee of a refund prohibited this.
Anyone else experienced 'bad' pads?
I never have in 30+ years of car dealing, racing included.
Clive, I think is a common problem aftermarket brake suppliers should be aware of. My symptoms were the same with the R1 Concepts brake pads. Simply put, stopping power was gone, resulting in MANY scary situations were my VX did not want to stop. All those problems are gone now with stock pads. Kenny said he found out that it was the thickness of the aftermarket pads.
Bart
Clive,
It sounds like you've solved your problem, but not too long ago I replace all four rotors (SP Performance drilled and slotted), all four sets of brake pads (OEM's), and installed the stainless lines. The brake system drained itself dry (due to my stupidity of not plugging the open hard lines) and I had a bear of a time getting them bled. I finally caved and brought it to a local mechanic who did some research and found out that in order to bleed our brakes properly the engine has to be running during the process.
We got a lot of the air out of the lines, and the VX stops on a dime now, but once stopped if I push on the pedel hard it will go all the way to the floor. I think I just need to bleed the brakes again to make sure all of the air is out of the lines. I spoke with Tone and he said that he went through a LOT of fluid when he did the same thing. So to all I would say; bleed the brakes a few more time to see if that helps stopping power.
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong, it usually turns out to be impossible to get at or repair."
-Douglas Adams, Mostly Harmless
The pad thickness was fine it must've been the material-too hard or 'cold'.
Re brake bleeding and pedal travel we've found that the pedal can be made harder and shorter by adjusting the rear calipers. A couple of my VXs had horrible feeling long pedals and this cured the problem.
Thanks for your replies, Clive.