This is what I did.
http://www.4x4wire.com/isuzu/tech/manualhubs/
This is what I did.
http://www.4x4wire.com/isuzu/tech/manualhubs/
You just remove the solid metal slugs(the 6 allen screws) and the new hubs slide over the splines of the axle, then just bolt the allen heads back down.I've got a set of SuperWinch manual hubs that I never installed. I tried to get it done a couple of weekends ago, but couldn't figure out how they attach to the axle. They looked like they would bolt on, but the axle wouldn't be attached to anything. Can someone whose done the install give me some tips? Maybe they sent me the wrong part?
On a side note, if you get the Aisin hubs, mine had normal style bolts attaching the outer hub cap to the body. I recently broke one of the heads off and had to remove the shank with an EZ out. I replaced mine with allen screws which would ideally strip out before the head would shear, plus you can still get them off with vise grips if they do strip.
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable man persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore all progress depends on me.
Wow, I didn't think it could possibly be that easy. Well, looks like I've got a project for tomorrow. Thanks guys...
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Wow.. I am so glad I asked this question.. 23 responses.. and all useful.. SWEET!!!!!
Now I know what I am gonna change along with the wheel change.
Awesome information ..
Thanks again
Jeff
anyone else want to chime in?
I have manual locking hubs on mine and like the fact that my 4 wheel drive seems to work MUCH better in reverse now, before the fronts would not spin in a tough situation now they seem to always work. I thought we had autolocking hubs that would only lock when going forward, thats why I switched. Also to help save my CV's.
When I was racing at the track I had a switch to disengage the TOD, I would unlock the hubs, and at one point I even dropped the front driveshaft to try to get as much power to the rears as possible. I believe this helped but I don't think the gain was really worth it. Maybe -0.2 seconds in a quarter mile. But it was cool to be able to light the rear M/T tires up before I got to the line.
2001 Ironman Daily Driver... 3.5" suspension lift (OME912 springs and 1" spring spacer), ball joint flip, 1.5" front diff. drop, 33"x12.5 TrXus MT, 16x10 Eagle Alloy rims, Interceptor, PV muffler, K&N air filter, Alpine Supercharger, Bilstein shocks, and some trimming.
2000 Ironman Project LS-1 VX... very slow progress but someday....... ohhhhh someday......
I don't think this is right - I am pretty sure that ours our permanently locked. My buddy at work had a ToD Trooper that had auto-lockers and it made noises the VX never did - you could hear the hubs click as they engaged after putting it into ToD or 4WD-Low. After you switched out of 4WD, I think you had to drive in reverse a few feet to unlock the hubs (not sure on this point and can't find my buddy to ask). In the VX we are always in some level of 4WD-Hi, so the hubs have to stay locked.
If you had issues with the front axle when going in reverse, that was probably because of the transfer case, not the hubs.