Oil leak from ????

[nfpgasmask]

I have seen diff fluid turn greenish if water got into it and I have seen it turn rust color if it got really hot. I think I am going to agree with etl on this one. If the head or intake gasket cracked, couldn't it leak both oil and coolant, mixing it together?

Perhaps. If it is a head or intake gasket, we are talking major engine work, correct?

Bart

[kodiak]

Perhaps. If it is a head or intake gasket, we are talking major engine work, correct?

Bart

If it was a head gasket you'd start to see evidence of coolant in the oil. The oil in mine is perfect and I haven’t had to top it off since Moab.

[kodiak]

Its actually pretty amassing that after almost 90k this is the first evidence of oil seepage. It’s kind of like finding you first gray hair.

[JHarris1385]

I would vote it is your seal. Just happens to be leaking from the opposite side mine is. Water most likely got into your oil and broke it down. Not only would I change the diff but also repack your bearings if you know you have been in mud or water recently.

[nfpgasmask]

J, so you're saying its the seal around the diff? How can this be fixed?

Bart

PS - I hardly ever drive in water, its dry as a bone out here. The deepest water I have been in lately was this:



But then again, do you think just rain water splashing up that way would be enough to penetrate the seal?

[Y33TREKker]

I should probably know this already, but where is the condensor for the AC located? Since it's been warmer out lately, have you been running the AC? Maybe what you're seeing is just accumulated water dripping off the condensor, which is collecting grease and grime as it makes it's way over dirty engine and chassis surfaces on it's way to the ground? That would also explain why it only seems to happen when the vehicle is driven.

[JHarris1385]

Y33 not a bad idea.


Bart, I would at least change your diff fluid no matter at if it has been 30k. I think the intervals is 15K. But I could be wrong and probably am. The seal is about $14 but a pain in the arse to get to. Our axel is set up to only be serviced by taking it off the brackets and dropping. I have had this leak for quite some time, maybe a year now. Everytime I have either added oil or changed it stopped. Changing this seal out is going to be one heft mech ticket, the estimate is 4hours of labor and this is why I have not done it yet. In the meantime I did manage to build some drop brackets so we can tackle that at the same time. I am not 100% sold on it being the seal but I kind of think it is. The spray pattern seems to be from circular motion while in drive.

[nfpgasmask]

Bart, I would at least change your diff fluid no matter at if it has been 30k. I think the intervals is 15K. But I could be wrong and probably am. The seal is about $14 but a pain in the arse to get to. Our axel is set up to only be serviced by taking it off the brackets and dropping. I have had this leak for quite some time, maybe a year now. Everytime I have either added oil or changed it stopped. Changing this seal out is going to be one heft mech ticket, the estimate is 4hours of labor and this is why I have not done it yet. In the meantime I did manage to build some drop brackets so we can tackle that at the same time. I am not 100% sold on it being the seal but I kind of think it is. The spray pattern seems to be from circular motion while in drive.

Thanks for the info, J. I am planning to do my diffs very soon, so we'll see...

Bart

[kodiak]

If we go thru the trouble of dropping the diff we mite as well do the CV boots too,
get it all with one shot. My leek is very slow so I can wait. I know my CV boots are next so if it is the seals I can wait.

[nfpgasmask]

I should probably know this already, but where is the condensor for the AC located? Since it's been warmer out lately, have you been running the AC? Maybe what you're seeing is just accumulated water dripping off the condensor, which is collecting grease and grime as it makes it's way over dirty engine and chassis surfaces on it's way to the ground? That would also explain why it only seems to happen when the vehicle is driven.

Yes, a good thought, but I rarely run my a/c. I ran if for about 20 miles on the way back from Moab, and that's it. Since I have been home, it hasn't been on once.

Bart

[nfpgasmask]

So, I am still leaking from this spot and I would say it is the seal around my diff. So, has anyone else out there with leak got it fixed?

Bart

[tom4bren]

Bart,

Mine hasn't leaked but since I just completed my diff drop I kinda know what's going on in there. If you are going to do the diff drop then you'll be removing the seal anyway. This would be the time to replace the CV boots as well since you'll be 97.3% of the way there anyway.

Have you looked at StarChild's instructions for installing the Darlington diff drop brackets? I have it in pdf if you want me to send it to you. You can see the seal in the third picture in those instructions.

I didn't replace my seal (StarChild indicated this was OK so I took the gamble). I just happen to have 2 spares from the axle I got from the boneyard if you need them tho.

If you can live with the leak until you are ready to do the diff drop, I would recommend that you do so. You'll have the axle broken down as far as you'll ever take it during that process so just wait till then to perform any more diagnostics.

[nfpgasmask]

If it was a head gasket you'd start to see evidence of coolant in the oil. The oil in mine is perfect and I haven’t had to top it off since Moab.

Well, my oil looks good too, I can't say the same for topping off, but it does not show signs of coolant mixing...

Bart

[nfpgasmask]

That's cuz you are burning it all out! Two things - first, the "seal" around the diff mounts are just liquid gaskets - if the bolts back out and the diff starts to move around some, sure, it will leak. Tighten them back up and it may go away. This is the case on my VX. Second, the pinion oil seal... if that is what is leaking (again, such as the case with my VX) the front driveshaft would be removed, the pinion nut removed, the yoke removed, the oil seal removed, the crush collar removed, a new crush collar installed, a new oil seal installed, a new pinion nut installed - everything else would be reused but the preload will have to be set by a pro unless you can find access to the appropriate tool to do it yourself. If it is your oil seal at the pinion, parking on an incline will usually force fluid past the seal - it might not leak otherwise... unless of course when driving.

When you say oil around the pinion seal, is that the engine? Sorry, I'm not that up to speed with all yer technical mech 50cent words. I'm still learning.

Bart

[nfpgasmask]

Bart, did you find out anything?

Negative. This weekend was kind of a cluster for me so I didn't even get a chance to look at it again.

Bart