Alan how do I check my slipyoke? I lubed it just before Moab, gonna lube it again this weekend if I can get outside before its too hot lol!
Super VXer
Alan how do I check my slipyoke? I lubed it just before Moab, gonna lube it again this weekend if I can get outside before its too hot lol!
Ask forgiveness, not permission.
Super VXer
The best way is to remove the rear driveline, then lay it flat on a bench...notice the "pollished" area near the seal at the slip yoke....this pollished area is the "sweet spot" where your driveline rides most of the time at normal or lifted ride highth...
To check it, move the male and female pieces back and forth it the "sweet spot" and see if its a tight fit, or if she feels a bit loose....also give her a bit of a twist back and forth to check the tightness as your slideing it through the stroke....
Some places in the stroke are or may be tighter than others...
New slip yokes have like ZERO side-to-side movement...FYI
While your at it slip back the seal, and pull the male part of the shaft out for a good look...wipe any old lube off for a good inspection of the splines...wear will be obvious here with a close clean look.
Lastly, give the Ujoints a tug or twist or 2....feel for stiffness, smothness. And side to side (rotational) movement...
Let us know how it goes and feels...
Super VXer
GAAAAA....SO many jokes.....SO many insinuations.....must......resist......
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong, it usually turns out to be impossible to get at or repair."
-Douglas Adams, Mostly Harmless
Super VXer
You can NOT be freakin serious.....I just pee'd myselfOriginally Posted by BigMeatVX
The best way is to remove the rear driveline, then lay it flat on a bench...notice the "pollished" area near the seal at the slip yoke....this pollished area is the "sweet spot" where your driveline rides most of the time at normal or lifted ride highth...
To check it, move the male and female pieces back and forth it the "sweet spot" and see if its a tight fit, or if she feels a bit loose....also give her a bit of a twist back and forth to check the tightness as your slideing it through the stroke....
Some places in the stroke are or may be tighter than others...
New slip yokes have like ZERO side-to-side movement...FYI
While your at it slip back the seal, and pull the male part of the shaft out for a good look...wipe any old lube off for a good inspection of the splines...wear will be obvious here with a close clean look.
Lastly, give the Ujoints a tug or twist or 2....feel for stiffness, smothness. And side to side (rotational) movement...
Let us know how it goes and feels...
Super VXer
Seriously...No Fun W/O the Pun....
That's how ya do it!!!
Of course when your all done, be sure to check the nuts for tightness...
Super VXer
Yeah I have been researching fixing this same problem. I took my drive shaft loose on the rear end yesterday actually and turned it a half turn on the rear end side to see if that would help anything, and nothing at all changed. I cannot get the u-joints to budge at all, they seem firm and strong as ever, I guess I will take off the drive shaft and do the check you mentioned this weekend. How much is a replacement, or should we upgrade? Should I remove my 3rd member and have the gear mesh or adjustments or shims or whatever that is they can adjust before investing in a new driveshaft? I had my diffs rebuilt when I put the new 4.77s in, and the grinding was not that noticeable, but the problem was WAY worse when I put the 2" spacers in on top of the 912s. The 912s by themselves were not that bad, the sound was bareable, now it sounds like a tank everytime I let off the accelerator.
Hmmm.....: http://cardone.com/english/club/Prod...%2065-0001.pdf
http://www.amazon.com/A1-Cardone-659.../dp/B000C45E5U (rebuilt driveshaft for $365)
http://www.isuzuparts.com/partscat.html (new driveshaft for $616)
I found 2 driveline places here in Houston ( http://www.houstondrivetrain.com/ , http://www.ctdriveshafts.com/ ), I am going to ask them how much they would charge to check mine out if I took it off and brought it to them. NOTE: if you take it off make sure you use the emergency brake! Especially if you are running 2wd like me at the moment
Adjusting the pinion angle actually might be the easiest fix all you would need to purchase are these 2 items:
https://www.independent4x.com/mercha...roducts_id=481 (adjustable lower links $450)
https://www.independent4x.com/mercha...products_id=50 (adjustable upper link for $220)
Installation would be no problem, but guessing what the correct angle should be (aka how much difference in length from the stock links and the new adjustable one's and which should be shorter and which should be longer)? Uh I haven't a clue, should we try to get back to the stock angle? What is that? What is our current angle with lift?
Last edited by LittleBeast : 07/16/2010 at 03:13 AM
Super VXer
Mine is obviously not lifted barely any....its just my OCD that has me actually turning OFF the stereo searching for noises.....so I guess I should be thankful its not as loud as you guys with the big big lifts!
Super VXer
the noise you folks are hearing is the loose slip yoke...
As driveline rotational speed increases, the loose fit parts start to swing in an egg-shapped motion...
Changing the Pinion angle will help, but you only need the adjustable upper link or lower links, (u don't need both, unless you just want them)...This really JUST helps the angle on the REAR u-joint, and does not help the actual driveline angle much at all, mabey less than 1 degree!!! (Although the splines would have a SLIGHT slip-depth davantage)
And you will STILL have the problem untill you replace the rear driveline....
I run 919 springs, which give almost 5" of lift... So my rear driveline angle is a noticeably steeper than stock.
Like I said, remove it for inspection and you'll see what I mean...
Your local driveline shop should be able to install a new slip yoke, on your driveline for a couple hundred....Make sure the new splines they use are At LEAST as long as the stock VX one...longer is betteras it allows more spline contact area....
Last edited by BigMeatVX : 07/16/2010 at 10:08 AM
Super VXer
Well I greased the driveshaft again this morning, ran my errands and the noise is almost totally gone, had to listen very hard to barely hear it......I am wondering if a seal has gone bad....I will see how long it is before it starts with the noise again.
Super VXer
Well I greased the driveshaft again this morning, had not greased since a couple months before Moab......ran my errands and the noise is almost totally gone, had to listen very hard to barely hear it (you guys probably wouldnt even hear it)......I am wondering if a seal has gone bad....I will see how long it is before it starts with the noise again.
Super VXer
You lubed the slip yoke, right? The grease just takes up the clearances on the worn out areas....makes em temporarly tighter and quieter....mine would run for a week or two and then the grease would just heat up and move outta the way a bit...makeing the worn slpined areas loose again...and then noise and vibratioin came back...
a bad seal could also be an issue here, but its too late for that now if you hear noises and vibrations
Super VXer
Alan, yes I greased u joints and slip yoke, but this morning driving it is making the grinding a tad....so its coming back......
Super VXer
Mine is getting so bad I am afraid it is going to break in half, I am not driving it again until I figure this out. So I don't need to buy another slip yoke they will be able to replace it with a non-Isuzu one?
Super VXer
Driveshaft place said yoke is perfect, U-joints are shot. Called Merlin, got one ordered from him, but it seems there are 2 different sizes on the rear driveshaft. So I need to figure out which other size I need and order that one from Indy4x.
ALSO:
Looking through the Vehicross Manual and found out that our FRONT PROPELLER (DRIVESHAFT) has CV's much like our front axles and if these go out it can cause driveline shaking. SO I crawled under there and BOTH of my CV's on the FRONT driveshaft are shot and look like they have been that way for a while, the joint is dry and does not look good at all. Looks like after I get new U-joints for the rear I will be having the front driveshaft (or front propeller as the manual calls it) rebuilt. Any suggestions on how to do this or who to go to? Think the same place could rebuild it?
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