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Thread: Alpine S/C users read this!!!!

  1. #1
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    Alpine S/C users read this!!!!

    Guys I just had some issues with my S/C and sent it off for some service.

    The guy told me that there should be oil in the nose cone. Well the problem I have with this is the bearing in the back of the nose cone is a sealed bearing.

    So how exactly is oil supposed to get through the sealed bearing?

    When I pulled the nose cone it had no oil in it.

    The guys that are working on it are going to rebuild it with all new bearings and the rear nose cone bearing will be an open bearing so that oil can get into the nose cone.

    Just a heads up here.

    The shop that I highly recommend is www.thehighspeedlab.com

    Their contact number is Bill Embree (636) 346-0562 or Wade Embree (314) 277-7414. It's a father/son machine shop.

    They will also build a new nose cone shaft that won't chatter at idle. They will remove the splined drive shaft and replace it with a solid shaft with the coupler like every other Eaton. He wasn't sure why ours were designed like they are. Ours has a splined shaft that drives the coupler. He said you usually have a coupler or a splined shaft. Not both.

    Joe

  2. #2
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    Interesting. I was never really a fan of the nose come assembly but considering it was the only option we had (other than NOT getting one), I dove in.

    What issues were you having with your S/C that you had to send it out for rebuild?
    Gary Noonan
    '01 S/C VX / '18 Forester XT

  3. #3
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    My rear nosecone bearing was shot. I am anal about checking the oil and whatnot too. When I tore into it the rotors were wet with oil. So the rotor seals were in need of replacement.

    So they are replacing all my bearings and seals.

    Joe

  4. #4
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    How does one go about checking the oil level in the Alpine S/C?

  5. #5
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    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by VehiGAZ View Post
    How does one go about checking the oil level in the Alpine S/C?
    Wait until the motor cools down to ambient temp.
    Remove the fill/check plug in the front housing that the nose cone is attached to.(small hex head, about 1/2" plug)
    A small amount of oil should seep over the bottom edge of the hole.
    This is also where you drain it with a small hose & syringe, & refill with s/c oil from your friendly local GM stealership...

  6. #6
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    Couple of questions as I'm having similar issues.

    1. Is your drive one of the cast drives or the machined, billetted aluminum?
    2. With all that had to be rebuilt (I'm thinking of having the whole thing redone) can you provide a ball-park figure - basically what you've got out-of-pocket less shipping?
    3. What's the turn-around time?

    This is something I want to do ASAP - I'm putting on the extra intake manifold I have (complete with injectors, etc) so I can send off the whole kit if that's easier for them - or did you just send in the SC itself?

    -- John
    John Eaton
    Original Owner
    2001 Proton Yellow #580
    Atlanta GA

    http://wildtoys.com/vehicross/
    http://vehicross.blogspot.com/

    "Metaphors be with you"

  7. #7
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    Thanks dub!

    How do I know when it's refilled properly?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by VehiGAZ View Post
    Thanks dub!

    How do I know when it's refilled properly?
    When it begins to seep out of the port hole again. Cant get much fuller than that.

  9. #9
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    I have one on the original Alpine S/C's. I did change the nose unit to the later version to stop a noisy bearing a few years ago.
    I have 63k on the VX and about 50k on the S/C. Alpine did the install.
    At first I found clear oil in the upper recesses of the nose and pockets around the upper bolts after a few 10's of miles when I filled to the hole. I concluded the oil pushed out past the front seal. Alpine advised leaving the level down about 1/4" below the hole edge. The flexible small hose on the syringe used for filling is used as a dip stick. I fill until the oil runs out and than suck back to 1/4" below the edge. I change the oil once a year.
    Roy

  10. #10
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    Thanks so much for the info guys! I will knock out this project this weekend...

  11. #11
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    Just an FYI... I had one of the first few SC's installed on my past VX. I complained to Alpine about the noise from the nose cone and they sent me a new one. I never did install it, and I don't know if the internals are different (I assume so, but it is still the cast, not the aluminum). If anyone needs one let me know... it's been sitting in the original shipping box for a couple years now.

  12. #12
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    Hey Dallas - I am interested. Sending you a PM!

    -- John

  13. #13
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    Couple of questions as I'm having similar issues.

    1. Is your drive one of the cast drives or the machined, billetted aluminum?
    Mine is cast.


    2. With all that had to be rebuilt (I'm thinking of having the whole thing redone) can you provide a ball-park figure - basically what you've got out-of-pocket less shipping?
    A complete rebuild including bearings and seals and the nose cone will run about 400 or so. Go to www.thehighspeedlab.com and give them a call. Bill or Wade will call you back or possibly even answer.


    3. What's the turn-around time?
    About a week to a week and a half once they get it.


    This is something I want to do ASAP - I'm putting on the extra intake manifold I have (complete with injectors, etc) so I can send off the whole kit if that's easier for them - or did you just send in the SC itself?
    If you want a full rebuild you'll need to send in just the supercharger. There's no sense in sending them the lower manifold, you'd just be wasting money on shipping.

    Sorry it took me so long on the reply, I've been on vacation.

    Joe

  14. #14
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    There are 2 different nose cones and Rev. 2 is the better, quieter design. And if you're not dealing with a shop that is knowledgeable enough to contact Magnuson (who handles ALL aftermarket EATONs) about 'how it works',they might not be the best ones to be working on it....

  15. #15
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    And if you're not dealing with a shop that is knowledgeable enough to contact Magnuson (who handles ALL aftermarket EATONs) about 'how it works',they might not be the best ones to be working on it....
    Well I wondered that until the guy told me that Eaton sends them rotors to be worked on. He does a lot of work for Eaton.

    Hell Magnuson told me they couldn't replace the rotor bearings or seals. They also told me that they didn't have the correct nose cone parts to repair mine, but they could build a new one for me. They wanted 750 to rebuild the nosecone and inspect the S/C.

    Joe

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