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Thread: Alternative to Gatorback - faded cladding solutions

  1. #16
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    They're saying 1 can goes a long way, multiple applications. Considering you probably won't be applying that often, I would say 1 can would do ya fine. Thats what I got.
    Brian Cozzens - Art Director
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    www.gearboxsoftware.com

  2. #17
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    What's the website to order from? Nothing on carsystems site, and google ain't helping me.

  3. #18
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  4. #19
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    I took the plunge and applied it. And boy am I glad I did! The before and after pictures... well don't show much... so I'll try to get some good after photos tomorrow. But the results are pretty awesome.

    I put two applications on the cladding about ten min apart. Then 10 min later took it off. There are no directions on the can, well other than some very vague pictures. This is by no means the best method, I would bet you guys can come up with better ways. But I used two sponges, one for each application (be prepared to throw these away). I applied in small circular motions. And for removal I used a buffer.

    After being rather pleased with the results I decided to try it on the hood, mirrors, and spoiler. On the hood it didn't appear to be as effective, but after about an hour all the spots and fading was gone!

    Sidenotes: I used gloves initially, but then I decided there was no need. There aren't any warnings on the can, and it washes off easily, no burn, no nothing. It is also quite overkill to tape off the paint- it wipes right off, no damage. The excess seems to turn into an almost waxy-like substance after being applied.

    Summery: Very Pleased! Recommend it to everyone!

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by taylorRichie View Post
    Alot of us have used back to black... works well and smells good, but is a dust magnet.
    dust magnet??

    I was recently turned onto a product called Black Again from Black Jack. Old product that has been off the market for a number of years. This stuff really works well, but it too is a Dust magnet.

    Now for you out that are old enough to remember Lp's, remember those vinyl things before cd's.

    Do you remember the 'zerostat gun's, the thing you use to use after wiping the vinyl with the diskwasher D4 to remove the dust? Well it works here on the cladding to remove the static after applying what ever product blows your skirt up.

    I like Black Again by Black Jack.

    Hard to find but worth the search
    Greetings, Earthling. We come in peace... Never mind "Paris to Dakar", the VehiCROSS looks ready for the Martian desert.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by rowhard View Post
    dust magnet??

    I was recently turned onto a product called Black Again from Black Jack. Old product that has been off the market for a number of years. This stuff really works well, but it too is a Dust magnet.

    Now for you out that are old enough to remember Lp's, remember those vinyl things before cd's.

    Do you remember the 'zerostat gun's, the thing you use to use after wiping the vinyl with the diskwasher D4 to remove the dust? Well it works here on the cladding to remove the static after applying what ever product blows your skirt up.

    I like Black Again by Black Jack.
    yea! i have a bottle of that stuff too.. works very well but definitely attracts a lot of dust.. and the odd thing about it is you are supposed to apply it in the sun!.. i found that my local strauss discount auto still stocked it a few months ago


    "Engineers believe if it ain't broke, it doesn't have enough features yet"

  7. #22
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    zerostats cost like a hundred bucks nowadays. This Is what I use on all my lp/cd/dvd/interconnects/power wire/speaker cables:

    http://www.mapleshaderecords.com/aud.../ionoclast.php

    and on lp's before playing:

    http://www.mapleshaderecords.com/aud...ecordbrush.php

    Living in a low humidity area and having electrostatic speakers static electricity is a big problem for my system, so I have all this stuff laying around, I didn't think of using any of this stuff on my cladding though! Next time I put on a coat of back to black I will try the antistator trick out.

  8. #23
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    From what I've read Avalanche owners have sometimes waited an hour for the first coat to flash before applying a second.

    Glad to hear there is already great initial results. I get my can tomorrow!

  9. #24
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    I'm in for a bottle too...

  10. #25
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    Time for pics! ...although lighting outside today isn't making for great shots, you'll get the idea

    So this is my hood before (shield your children's eyes!)


    And this is the hood after!

    Wish I could get the dang phone to focus

    And here is a fully body!

    Sorry for the lack of having a comparison shot, but just trust me its an AWESOME improvement!

    I should mention that the hood still isn't quite perfect, but I'm just nitpicking. There is just a little bit of discoloration around the wiper fluid nozzles
    Last edited by Thmstec : 08/07/2008 at 01:40 PM

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thmstec View Post
    So this is my hood before (shield your children's eyes!)
    Mine is only a half-notch better than that!

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phantom View Post
    zerostats cost like a hundred bucks nowadays.
    DAMN, If I had know that I wouldn't even suggested it. Bought mine years ago, before cd's even in the BX overseas and it was cheap.

  13. #28
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    one of the guys on the avalanche forum recommended waiting 24 hours between coats... said it was still tacky after the first coat even after the recommended time period between coats.

    this is the first I've heard of having to wipe it off after putting it on.

    I'm placing an order for this stuff, hopefully we'll figure out optimal application instructions.

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by twistedsymphony View Post
    one of the guys on the avalanche forum recommended waiting 24 hours between coats... said it was still tacky after the first coat even after the recommended time period between coats.

    this is the first I've heard of having to wipe it off after putting it on.

    I'm placing an order for this stuff, hopefully we'll figure out optimal application instructions.
    Yeah, and I think that was due to moisture for that long rate? Anyhoo, I'm not really sure you should be wiping it off, that's a good observation. It definitely needs to soak into the polypropylene. As far as the hood is concerned, I have doubts it would have the same lasting effect as it does with the cladding. I'm honestly not sure what the outer surface of that insert is coated with, but it's not polypropylene.

    I seriously recommend reading thru the threads I posted before applying, or before someone makes a tutorial. They've been using this product for quite some time.

  15. #30
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    I actually read threw two whole threads on the avalanche forum and no one really spelled out the application procedure. just hinted at different things here and there..

    one interesting post was a guy had stains on the bed lid of his, said he didn't know the procedure to apply it, no one helped him so he posted back a few days later with pictures of his "best guess" at application. it dulled the stains quite a bit but didn't get rid of them completely and someone chastised him for it saying that if he had "followed directions that others had posted" he would have got rid of the stains.

    after reading that I even went back and skimmed through the tread, did a search there, and looked through other threads in the forum and found no real form of instruction. gotta love the mentality of forum people sometimes.

    EDIT:
    I found the official application instructions. they're availble in the PDF from the official website:
    http://www.carsystem.ca/shared_files...estorer_gb.pdf

    from the PDF:
    1. Surfaces to be sealed need to be clean and free of oil and grease. Any yellowing or staining on gelcoat and
    other plastic surfaces needs to be removed with a cleaner. The surface should be thoroughly rinsed with
    water. Metallic surfaces should be thoroughly degreased. Application on white surfaces can result in a slight
    colour change.
    2. After initial treatment the surface should be thoroughly dried before the Refinish Restorer is applied.
    3. Refinish Restorer cannot be applied onto very warm surfaces or in direct sunlight.
    4. Refinish Restorer is applied evenly, using a soft flat brush or a lint free cloth, until the pores are filled.
    5. Refinish Restorer should take effect 5 to 10 minutes after application. Any liquid Refinish Restorer can be
    brushed over a more porous area.
    6. After a maximum of 10 minutes any excess oil should be removed with an absorbent lint free cloth or a soft
    pad, otherwise it can only be removed with a suitable stain remover. Liquid Refinish Restorer can be removed
    using a turpentine substitute.
    7. If necessary repeat steps 4 to 6.
    8. When a high degree of shine is required, the surfaces treated with Refinish Restorer can be polished with a
    non abrasive wax.
    9. Metallic surfaces are not very porous and must therefore treated with a very fine wire wool soaked in Refinish
    Restorer. Excess oil must be removed after about 15 minutes. The surface can be than be polished with a lint
    free cloth for a greater shine.
    Cleaning Tools: Use turpentine substitute
    so you leave it on for 10 minutes and then remove it. use a brush... and it works on metal as well as plastic (which is probably why it works on the hood insert)
    Last edited by twistedsymphony : 08/08/2008 at 09:23 AM

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