What to replace to ride like new again?

[VCAMILO]

I need my VX to ride like new. Besides new shocks (Ranchos or so...) what else would I need? Over the last few years it has gotten worse. Then I drive new cars from work and they ride over the same streets bumps so much better...

Performance Polyurethane Sway Bar Bushing Sets from Energy Suspension
for Front: 9.5163G Greasable Sway Bar Bushing Set 28MM & Rear: 9.5156G Greasable Sway Bar Bushing Set 3/4” 19MM

[VehiGAZ]

My general advice: If you want like-new, don't put on aftermarket parts!

Although most people won't want to agree with this, bushings, shocks and springs are all wear-and-tear parts (eventually). If you want a like-new ride, then replace these with new (Isuzu) parts.

On the other hand, the VX didn't take bumps and pot-holes very gently when new, so if you want something that rides smooth over the bumpies, the VX isn't your best bet.

[twistedsymphony]

Sway bars keep your vehicle from rolling tightening them up will actually make driving over potholes and similar bumps WORSE.

In general unless you're hearing knocking/rattling from the suspension bits or the factory rubber is visibilty shot then upgrading the bushings wont do much to help you.

Springs and shocks are what make or break ride comfort. (FWIW the sway bar is technically a spring, but one that is only ever used in hard cornering).

Tires can do a lot to improve ride comfort as well, more rubber and less wheel typically helps, smaller overall diameter typically helps.

Going for comfort you'll lose performance, it's a trade off, and the VX wasn't ever really designed to be a smooth riding vehicle.

[Y33TREKker]

I'd 2nd the shocks and tires suggestion, especially tires. New tires can make or break ride quality, and it also depends on the type of ride you're after when you say "drive like new". Do you want a softer ride? More precise handling? Different manufacturers, and more specifically, different tire models can be chosen for the handling characteristics preferred.

As long as everything else in the suspension/chassis has been maintained and kept lubricated (alignments, grease fittings greased, wheel bearings cleaned and repacked, etc), the vehicle should maintain the "tight" feeling it had off the assembly line for quite awhile. The addition of adjustable Ranchos can give you options for dialing the ride in even more.

There are a lot of variables, but to get the ride you want, you first just have to narrow it down to what type of ride that is.

[bentcipher]

I'll have to agree with VehiGAZ on this. Vx's always rode rough as long as I can remember. Yeah, it's a pita, but what you loose on the road you win off road.

The shocks are constructed to give you the best off road performance, not necessarily comfort.

I just did a suspension upgrade on my FD3S Rx7 and can tell you that shocks alone make a HUGE difference. I have adjustable Koni's and it's night and day if I set them to fully firm or fully soft.

I'm not sure if fellow Vx'ers tried going to a more comfortable shock setup and were able to get more comfort... anyone???

- d

[VehiGAZ]

Oh, there are many, many threads on this forum about replacement shocks (Probably because of the price of OEMs!). The challenge with the VX's ride is that the springs are so stiff - if you go with a softer shock, then you will bet big-time bounciness. If you want it to ride truly differently, then you would have to change to softer springs, and I don't know if you could really find something like that...

[uncle_asa]

I need my VX to ride like new. Besides new shocks (Ranchos or so...) what else would I need? Over the last few years it has gotten worse. Then I drive new cars from work and they ride over the same streets bumps so much better...

How about steering dumper? You can replace center track rod (Isuzu 8-97102-701-2 or Sankei/555 SC-5336) and relay lever bracket (Isuzu 8-97102-823-0 or Sankei/555 SI-5315) to those used in Rodeo (they look exactly the same, but with dumper mounting points) and took Rodeo dumper (Isuzu 8-97161-106-1 or Tokico SD1009). Very clean install. Could make pictures of it installed if you want.

[SlowPro48]

The VX has a short wheelbase, a lot of overhang in the back relative to the wheelbase and stiff springs so it's never going to ride like an Xterra or something of that ilk - but it sure will handle - and that's in large part due to the OEM shocks. Isuzu really nailed the damping rates. But when the shocks get soft (or I imagine if you replace them with aftermarket shocks that don't have enough rebound damping) the handling is mediocre at best. <b>

Our shocks are the floating piston type - not bladder type - and the nitrogen eventually leaks out and then you get cavitation/aeration. Shim stacks don't do much damping in air! If your shocks aren't leaking fluid, you should try recharging them. I've had very good luck doing that - got 85K the VX now and it rides just fine on the original shocks. And it's cheap! The local bike shop here does all four for $10. I think next time they go soft, I'll change the fluid because at that point it will probably have 100K on it and surely by then the fluid will have thinned out - but so far, a shot of nitrogen is all it has taken to tighten things up. <b>

It's better to remove the shocks from the vehicle the first time. That makes it easier to drill a hole in the cap that covers up the Schrader valve (so you can pull it out) and also you will more than likely have to do some cleaning. There's a tiny hole in the edge of the cap that lets dirt and salt in. Use waterproof grease when you put the caps back. That seals things and also makes it easier to yank the cap back out when you have to recharge again in a couple years. I use Goop to fill the drilled hole. After the initial cleaning and re-charge you can just leave the shocks on the vehicle to recharge them if your local bike shop or whoever you get to charge them has a long enough nitrogen hose. When your VX starts to get boingy, just scrape the Goop off, yank the caps out with a spring hook, shoot 250psi into those Schrader valves, tap the caps back in, re-Goop and enjoy the ride. <b>

Important - drill closer to the edge of the cap - not the center! The bump in the center is there to clear the Schrader valve. If you drill into the valve you have created quite a problem for yourself. <b>

Now, if your OEM shocks have started leaking fluid, putting 250psi will only make them leak faster - until they leak enough out that the floating piston bottoms out in the remote reservoir anyway. If that's the case, you can have them rebuilt. The seal head is standard Kayaba. Any suspension shop should be able to get parts but Bruce's Suspension (brucessuspension dot com) has some experience with VX shocks so you might want to check him out. With fresh fluid, they will truly perform as new.

[alanbradley]

I've just replaced my knackered front shocks with heavy duty Monroe ones to replace the original ones after 86,000 miles. I still have to replace the back ones but the difference the fronts have made is unbelievable.

Of course, the ride is hard, but the difference in control and noise suppression (I had no bush left in the lower right side ) makes it feel how I've always known the VX should feel.

ZA