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Thread: What to replace to ride like new again?

  1. #16
    Member Since
    Mar 2006
    Location
    2001, Orange (ex-Proton), #0758
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    Quote Originally Posted by VCAMILO View Post
    I need my VX to ride like new. Besides new shocks (Ranchos or so...) what else would I need? Over the last few years it has gotten worse. Then I drive new cars from work and they ride over the same streets bumps so much better...
    How about steering dumper? You can replace center track rod (Isuzu 8-97102-701-2 or Sankei/555 SC-5336) and relay lever bracket (Isuzu 8-97102-823-0 or Sankei/555 SI-5315) to those used in Rodeo (they look exactly the same, but with dumper mounting points) and took Rodeo dumper (Isuzu 8-97161-106-1 or Tokico SD1009). Very clean install. Could make pictures of it installed if you want.
    2001 Isuzu VehiCROSS (build in progress): 4JX1/A340/part time, 2" body lift, front Aisin hubs, rear Aussie Locker, 4.56 gears, OEM rear sway bar disconnect, AirFlow snorkel, cabin air filter
    1980 Jeep Cherokee (assembling): 1.5" body lift, TBI, HEI
    1987 AMC Eagle: stock

  2. #17
    Member Since
    Jul 2004
    Location
    2000, Kaiser Silver, 0196
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    497
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    Try the cheap fix first!

    The VX has a short wheelbase, a lot of overhang in the back relative to the wheelbase and stiff springs so it's never going to ride like an Xterra or something of that ilk - but it sure will handle - and that's in large part due to the OEM shocks. Isuzu really nailed the damping rates. But when the shocks get soft (or I imagine if you replace them with aftermarket shocks that don't have enough rebound damping) the handling is mediocre at best. <b>

    Our shocks are the floating piston type - not bladder type - and the nitrogen eventually leaks out and then you get cavitation/aeration. Shim stacks don't do much damping in air! If your shocks aren't leaking fluid, you should try recharging them. I've had very good luck doing that - got 85K the VX now and it rides just fine on the original shocks. And it's cheap! The local bike shop here does all four for $10. I think next time they go soft, I'll change the fluid because at that point it will probably have 100K on it and surely by then the fluid will have thinned out - but so far, a shot of nitrogen is all it has taken to tighten things up. <b>

    It's better to remove the shocks from the vehicle the first time. That makes it easier to drill a hole in the cap that covers up the Schrader valve (so you can pull it out) and also you will more than likely have to do some cleaning. There's a tiny hole in the edge of the cap that lets dirt and salt in. Use waterproof grease when you put the caps back. That seals things and also makes it easier to yank the cap back out when you have to recharge again in a couple years. I use Goop to fill the drilled hole. After the initial cleaning and re-charge you can just leave the shocks on the vehicle to recharge them if your local bike shop or whoever you get to charge them has a long enough nitrogen hose. When your VX starts to get boingy, just scrape the Goop off, yank the caps out with a spring hook, shoot 250psi into those Schrader valves, tap the caps back in, re-Goop and enjoy the ride. <b>

    Important - drill closer to the edge of the cap - not the center! The bump in the center is there to clear the Schrader valve. If you drill into the valve you have created quite a problem for yourself. <b>

    Now, if your OEM shocks have started leaking fluid, putting 250psi will only make them leak faster - until they leak enough out that the floating piston bottoms out in the remote reservoir anyway. If that's the case, you can have them rebuilt. The seal head is standard Kayaba. Any suspension shop should be able to get parts but Bruce's Suspension (brucessuspension dot com) has some experience with VX shocks so you might want to check him out. With fresh fluid, they will truly perform as new.

  3. #18
    Member Since
    Jan 2007
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    1997 Silver JDM
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    I've just replaced my knackered front shocks with heavy duty Monroe ones to replace the original ones after 86,000 miles. I still have to replace the back ones but the difference the fronts have made is unbelievable.

    Of course, the ride is hard, but the difference in control and noise suppression (I had no bush left in the lower right side ) makes it feel how I've always known the VX should feel.

    ZA

  4. #19

    cool beans

    thanks! Great thread

  5. #20

    bilsteins!!!

    I have been thinking about putting some Bilsteins on my VX...I have not been able to use my rig since last Jan..that is when my back when out on me. With the Bilsteins doesn't the VX have a softer ride???

  6. #21
    Member Since
    Jun 2002
    Location
    2001, Ebony
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    Great info SlowPro48 !

  7. #22
    Member Since
    Nov 2007
    Location
    '01 Ebony Black VX, 0801; '01 Kaiser Silver VX, 1002
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    Slightly....

    Jamessmith,
    I was trying to match the stock ride as closely as possible, and I find the Bilsteins to be maybe 5 to 10 per cent softer. Handling is still good with the Bilsteins, but not quite as crisp as the stock ride.

    Randy

  8. #23
    Member Since
    Jun 2004
    Location
    99 Astral Silver VX #1872 + 99 Ironman WIP
    Posts
    10,613
    Thanked: 1
    Quote Originally Posted by jamessmith View Post
    I have been thinking about putting some Bilsteins on my VX...I have not been able to use my rig since last Jan..that is when my back when out on me. With the Bilsteins doesn't the VX have a softer ride???
    Quote Originally Posted by 4X4 UFO View Post
    Jamessmith,
    I was trying to match the stock ride as closely as possible, and I find the Bilsteins to be maybe 5 to 10 per cent softer. Handling is still good with the Bilsteins, but not quite as crisp as the stock ride.

    Randy
    When I read he was thinking of Bilsteins, I was hoping someone with Bilsteins would reply.

    I was thinking the adjustable Ranchos would be the shizz, just dial em' in to a preferred compromise of back comfort & handling...

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