Ok passenger rear. Do NOT attempt this unless you plan to remove the rear panel entirely. I mean entirely. Possibly if you remove the mid panel entirely; but leaving both half-on/half-off is criminally difficult. The left rear has the jack, and a hole in the panel which makes access to what is behind it fairly benign by comparison. The right rear has no such access. The speaker mounts on both sides of the rear are held in place with 4 screws and 2 bolts. The screws (2x front, 2x rear) are into the wall/frame. The bolts connect the speaker mount to a metal panel affixed behind the rear panel. It is imperative to screw in the 2 aft screws before putting in the 2 fore screws or the bolts. On the right rear, because of the impossibly small hole through the panel itself--this is a monumental task. I've seen 300zx engine bays with more room. Hours of cursing, scrapes, scuffs, bloody knuckles/etc, I did it. Again, this project is MUCH easier if you just remove both panels on both sides.

As for the speaker grille, i did some sleuthing and it appears that the only interference is at the top. So what I did on the passenger rear (as opposed to the driver's rear where I clipped everything out), I only clipped the very top part of the webbing. I clipped it just below the part that juts outward leaving the bulk of the webbing in place. This eliminated the protrusion and also helps to keep the cloth in place with most of the webbing. The discarded piece was extremely easy to remove after all the attached webs had been clipped.

I wasn't able to fit the stock screw back into the 1 mount bolt that I'd kept on the speaker mount--so I ended up removing one of the pads in order to get it to fit. Seems to have worked fine. I wrapped the entire surface mount in electrical tape. There's padding attached to the underside of the front part of the speaker mount--presumably there to keep from fraying the wires that pass immediately below the mount--take care to keep it in place. Don't remember if I mentioned it, but I bought some weatherstripping for this project. I wrapped a half-moon around the magnet on my speakers in the area i expected it to contact the frame/wheel-well. I also put some of those pads on the back of the magnet in the same area. Last but not least, I guessimated where the contact point with the exterior wall would be, and attached some weatherstripping to the wall at this point. All in all, this should cushion my speaker and prevent any rattling.

Discovered an amp under the passenger seat, but I didn't look into it. I snapped the bolt-head off one of my rear seat bolts (backside) as I was putting them back--so that's gonna a future project to get the threaded part out.

I used a dremel wtih a metal blade on the mounts. Went through about 6 of them between both mounts. Use the paper that comes with your speakers. Cut it to the size indicated, then poke holes in the mount locations. If you keep a factory mount hole (like I did) screw that screw back in through the paper. Carefully drill out the other screw holes (you'll have to use sheet-metal screws which usually come with the speakers)--trying to keep the template straight and flat so the holes are in the correct locations. I think i did pilot holes with 1/16th bit and finished with 5/16th bit. After you have the holes drilled, use a small nail/screw/etc to hold the paper firmly in place, and then sharpie the circle cut-out onto the speaker mount. This is your guide for where to cut the sheet metal.

BTW:

http://www.vehicross.info/showthread...-Rear-Speakers

I will say that 6x9 might actually work in this location...but I cannot speak to it. And 6x9 would extend even further rearward, which would look even funkier if you have intend to go see-through on your speaker grilles.

I will say that having the rears online again is a noticeable difference. That said, fronts & rears combined simply cannot generate the bass that I'm accustomed to. I cannot recommend enough the subwoofer solution I have. For those who missed it:



Original ported 8" bass-tube (came with car when I bought it) on top of my 10" sealed downfiring sub.


And without the old sub.


I don't know specifically what amp is driving it...but I cannot express my happiness with this sub enough. I'll take a 10" sealed over an 8" ported any day. And if anyone wants to swing by my place to hear it, just come on by. I don't remember if this is the exact one I purchased, but it's very similar.

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-SW...neer+preloaded

They do make a 12" as well...but I wasn't sure about fit (it actually may fit) and there's an endless debate on which is overall better for response 10 vs 12. There's a few VERY low tones that I know the 10" won't hit, but on the flip side, it can reverb faster to be ready for the next beat. Hope this helps!