transmission problem

[H3_VX]

Do not flush, do not flush, do not flush, do not flush (my opinion). Change the fluid and filter only. If the PO did no transmission work, all that flushing will do is remove all of that wonderful metallic/gear buildup that has been keeping the tranny from slipping. Its akin to the issues of using synthetic motor oil after a car has been run on normal oil for 100K miles, the synthetic does its job and removes gunk from the engine, but the gunk has been keeping the seals tight.

Try running with Power Mode enables, and see how that effects the shifting.

So your recommendation is to continue using regular oil and to just change the tranny fluid, because I was considering using royal purple synthetic oil and synthetic tranny fluid for next change. I'm ordering a k&n air filter also.

[atilla_the_fun]

I'm running Shell 15W40, regular oil (its a diesel oil) and I've had no problems. I actually ran it through last Minneapolis winter, but I never ran the car if I knew that it was below -10F. I think that for this winter I will put in 10W30, and it will be allright. I've noticed no oil consumption at all with this oil @ 103K miles.

If you're burning oil, then by all means you can experiment by switching to synthetic. But, if you're happy with what you have now, you can consider staying with regular oil. Saying that, I use Mobile 1 oil filters in mine, I read that the higher quality filters give better oil pressure, which is something that may come in handy on our engine.

Come to think of it, the only issues I have with the Shell 15W40 is that they sell it in Gallons, and not the large 5 Quart bottles. Also, I do have some engine chatter from the high weight oil.

[H3_VX]

I'm running Shell 15W40, regular oil (its a diesel oil) and I've had no problems. I actually ran it through last Minneapolis winter, but I never ran the car if I knew that it was below -10F. I think that for this winter I will put in 10W30, and it will be allright. I've noticed no oil consumption at all with this oil @ 103K miles.

If you're burning oil, then by all means you can experiment by switching to synthetic. But, if you're happy with what you have now, you can consider staying with regular oil. Saying that, I use Mobile 1 oil filters in mine, I read that the higher quality filters give better oil pressure, which is something that may come in handy on our engine.

Come to think of it, the only issues I have with the Shell 15W40 is that they sell it in Gallons, and not the large 5 Quart bottles. Also, I do have some engine chatter from the high weight oil.

Are there any forum members that have had problems after a tranny flush service?

I have also considered using zMax on the engine and in the fuel system.

[Riff Raff]

does it shift hard? if your shift indicators are wrong (putting you in 3rd gear instead of drive) you would have high rpms like that.... and the mode selector switch would be your culprit.. its pretty common on the VX

x2. Make sure both your Power Mode & Winter Mode push-button switches are in the "OFF" (disengaged) position, and then take it out for a test drive again.

[Grif]

Just FWIW, my transmission guy said the same thing. If the history of transmission service is unknown or known to be neglected on a higher mileage vehicle, then its best not to flush. He said he would do it if I insisted, but would not take responsibility if it need a rebuild shortly thereafter. To his credit, he would have been the guy getting paid for the rebuild job anyways, so he potentially lost some paid shop-hours. All he does is transmissions, and is highly regarded.

Are there any forum members that have had problems after a tranny flush service?

I have also considered using zMax on the engine and in the fuel system.

[H3_VX]

Just FWIW, my transmission guy said the same thing. If the history of transmission service is unknown or known to be neglected on a higher mileage vehicle, then its best not to flush. He said he would do it if I insisted, but would not take responsibility if it need a rebuild shortly thereafter. To his credit, he would have been the guy getting paid for the rebuild job anyways, so he potentially lost some paid shop-hours. All he does is transmissions, and is highly regarded.

ok, thanks for info. i've asked some other friends on different forums and they all say the same, not to flush, only to drain and refill. BTW, your avatar makes me want a kaiser. one day perhaps, one day.

[Grif]

BTW, your avatar makes me want a kaiser. one day perhaps, one day.

Aww shucks... that lil ole pic? I just put it there for somthing to wear. lol

Just upped some others to my gallery. But this is WAY

[Gussie2000]

I'm running Shell 15W40, regular oil (its a diesel oil) and I've had no problems. I actually ran it through last Minneapolis winter, but I never ran the car if I knew that it was below -10F. I think that for this winter I will put in 10W30, and it will be allright. I've noticed no oil consumption at all with this oil @ 103K miles.

If you're burning oil, then by all means you can experiment by switching to synthetic. But, if you're happy with what you have now, you can consider staying with regular oil. Saying that, I use Mobile 1 oil filters in mine, I read that the higher quality filters give better oil pressure, which is something that may come in handy on our engine.

Come to think of it, the only issues I have with the Shell 15W40 is that they sell it in Gallons, and not the large 5 Quart bottles. Also, I do have some engine chatter from the high weight oil.

I also use rotella shell in my horse,many car forums where i lurk into have good words about this oil,seems the best regular oil out there.

Since is a heavy viscosity graded oil you may consider using a lighter oil during the winter season

[johnnyapollo]

The only problems I've had with a tranny flush is that the ends of the cooler hoses (where the machine hooks in) tend to get buggered and leak a bit. I'm looking for a replacement. Doing a full synth drain and fill next.

-- John

[deermagnet]

H3, since the previous owner neglected the tranny for 78k miles, it could be just the tip of the iceberg. Assume everything else was neglected also. This is a partial hit list that others may add to as needed-

• Change tranny fluid and strainer/filter
• Change transfer case fluid (it's tranny fluid)
• Change front and rear diffy fluids
• Change motor oil and filter
• Change power steering fluid (it's tranny fluid)
• Change engine coolant
• Replace radiator hoses and heater hoses
• Flush and bleed brake fluid
• Replace air filter
• Replace PCV valve
• Lube rear drive shaft components
• Repack front wheel bearings
• Replace fan belt
• Align front end
• Clean EGR valve and EGR intake tube
• Clean MAF sensor
• Replace fuel filter
• Replace spark plugs

We'll add more later.

Mark Griffin

[H3_VX]

H3, since the previous owner neglected the tranny for 78k miles, it could be just the tip of the iceberg. Assume everything else was neglected also. This is a partial hit list that others may add to as needed-

• Change tranny fluid and strainer/filter
• Change transfer case fluid
• Change front and rear diffy fluids
• Change motor oil and filter
• Change power steering fluid
• Change engine coolant
• Replace radiator hoses and heater hoses
• Flush and bleed brake fluid
• Replace air filter
• Replace PCV valve
• Lube rear drive shaft components
• Repack front wheel bearings
• Replace fan belt
• Align front end
• Clean EGR valve and EGR intake tube
• Clean MAF sensor
• Replace fuel filter
• Replace spark plugs

We'll add more later.

Mark Griffin

Thanks Mark, This is awesome. I know she had regular oil and filter service and had new rotors and pads installed along with brand new tires 2k miles ago, but thats it. I will get to work on everything else on your list. its a good starting point i suppose. next week i'll be bringing her to an isuzu dealer 75 minutes from me. one good thing, the oil level is unchanged since i took ownership.

what is egr valve and intake tube?
what is bleed brake fluid?

Thanks again helpful sir!!!!!!

[deermagnet]

Brake fluid should be changed every five years or so. Bleeding and flushing is just when they pump a large amount of fluid thru the system and allow it run out at all four wheels eliminating all air from the system.

The EGR valve thing we do ourselves. It's on the pass side rear of the engine. It's easy to remove and clean. With the valve off, start the engine and spray LOTS of carb cleaner down the small tube that leads into the intake. Hit the throttle on the front of the engine by hand to keep it running as the cleaner pushes thru. You may get a check engine light for running the engine with the EGR valve off. Erase the code.

The #1 question on this page shows how to clean the EGR system-
http://www.isuzufaq.com

Mark

[deermagnet]

H3, I know what you said about another vehicle going 150K miles without tranny service, but that won't work with a VX. Please believe us, with a VX it's all about preventive maintenance. Ask me how I know. I have 255,000 miles behind the wheel of my VX as a daily driver. My VX is rock solid and as dependable as any VX out there. Word.

Mark Griffin (a VX lifer)

[H3_VX]

H3, I know what you said about another vehicle going 150K miles without tranny service, but that won't work with a VX. Please believe us, with a VX it's all about preventive maintenance. Ask me how I know? I have 255,000 miles behind the wheel of my VX as a daily driver. My VX is rock solid and as dependable as any VX out there. Word.

Mark Griffin (a VX lifer)

you'll regret this post. LOL! i'll be emailing you ALL the time.