Super VXer
I haven't done this yet, so I don't know how many attachment points can be accessed, BUT...
You could, in theory, wire all the pulleys together (while still being able to r & r the belt) so they can't move when the old belt comes off.
Look at what's there, any threaded holes in the block that could accept a bolt as an attachment point?
Get creative, post lots of pics...hope it goes well from here on...
VXer
I have done this on 2.6L, 3.2L and 3.5L Troopers. The process is the same for the Vehicross.
If your engine was out time you would have known it. Engines just don't run right if this as little as one tooth off.
Don't worry about the marks on the old belt. The marks you need make sure are absolutely right are the cam pulleys to the heads and the crank pulley to the front cover. Get these marks as close to aligned as possible and remove the belt. With the belt off you can make the slight adjustments to the cam pulleys and crank to get it perfect before installing the new belt.
Once you get the new belt installed, turn the engine over by hand and make sure the marks stay lined up (again the pulleys to their reference marks). If they do, congratulations. If not, pull the belt align the marks and try again.
It is a tedious process but with any luck, you will nail the alignment on your first try.
John
99 Silver VX
Super VXer
Wow, up early I see!Originally Posted by Ascinder
Gimme a call if you can come by.
I see what you mean, but I haven't looked at that yet. I suppose it is a possibility.
Oh yeah, gettin' creative! Yesterday I had to "make" an Isuzu J-tool so I could loosen the bolt on the crankshaft pulley!Get creative, post lots of pics...hope it goes well from here on...As for pics, I have 90 so far, and a huge write up on the radiator and timing belt is on deck.
OK, so basically, I can ignore the marks on the belt and align the marks on the pulleys. One good thing, is that the marks on the camshaft pulleys align together. Meaning the left bank pulley, and the right bank pulley line up together at the same time. The crankshaft is confusing however since there is no reference mark on the crankshaft pulley itself, so far as I can see.
I guess I am just going to go for it, with the pulleys aligned with the marks on the housing and hope from there!
Bart
VXer
Bart,
Take a close look at the crankshaft pulley. There should be a dot or a line that you will want to line up with the reference mark on the cover. If not, it will be the keyway on the crank lining up with the mark on the cover. Turn over the engine by hand until you get both cam pulleys lined up with their reference marks on the heads and I bet the crank keyway or pulley mark lines up with a mark on the front cover.
Install the new belt and make sure these marks all line up. It is a pain the arse sometimes to get it perfect, but nothing less than perfect is acceptable.
John
Super VXer
Y E S
I 99.99% sure I got it! Once you take off the timing belt, the upper pulleys spring to the 12 o'clock position, like the Aussie chap talks about in the 2nd above video. At first this TOTALLY freaked me out, because the instructional video for changing the timing belt MAKES NO MENTION of this happening. They gloss over so many small details in that video, it is almost not worth watching because it will confuse the hell outta you if you have never done this before.
So at this point, I have the water pump changed, the tensioner and the idle pulley all swapped out, and the new belt is in place. Now, all I really have to do is put everything back together and make sure I get my coolant and everything filled up and correct.
So, I am basically "done" changing the belt and associated parts. I just need to button her back up, and I might wait until tomorrow after work (I'm tired). Either way, I am going to have a really nice write up with loads of photos when I am done. I just hope everything works right and my coolant leak STOPS. Otherwise I will be going back in and I don't want to do that!
More soon.
Bart
VXer
Bart,
If you want to make sure you got it right ...
Turn over the engine by hand. Make sure the mark line up after turning it over. If that is good. Put your harmonic balancer on and just snug it up and start the engine. Make sure it sounds and revs okay. Don't go overboard and make sure you dont get any loose clothing or hair caught up in the moving parts. This will not hurt your engine and can save you a lot of headache if you didn't get it just right. You know how hard it was to get to where you are now. It would be a pain to have to do it all over again.
John
Super VXer
Yes, I rotated the engine by hand 3 times and the hash marks lined up correctly every time so I think I am good.
At this point things are getting put back together. Worst case scenario my timing is off and I get CEL and have to go back in. But, I am feeling pretty good about my timing at this point.
What I don't like however, is how the damn manual is so freakin' vague. Finding the torque specs for certain things is a MAJOR pain. I might have to call Merlin tomorrow and see if I can talk to someone who can tell me torque specs for certain parts.
Right now I am replacing the Serpentine Belt Tensioner and pulley. There is 1 bolt holding the top part of the tensioner assembly to the housing. There is also a large allen bolt in the center of the tensioner assembly that I had to remove and for the life of me I cannot find the right torque specs for these bolts. Furthermore, what is the correct torque for the tensioner pulley itself? This is where I have stopped for the night.
But I am getting there and I should hopefully be done tomorrow after work or Tuesday at the latest.
Bart
PS - A friend of mine told me I should probably change my "heater hoses" as well. I have no idea what he is talking about. Anyone??
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