Shim Tool?

[logman]

Hey everyone, I am having a local trusted mechanic work on my VX. He is doing timing belt, component kit, water pump, etc...

He is also doing the valve shims. All the shims are out of spec, and a few are WAY out of spec. He said he needed a tool, part# J-42689 I guess it is the tool that removes/replaces the shims? Does anyone know where I can get one of these tools besides ebay? Does he even need the tool, or would a screwdriver work? He asked me because he was having a hard time locating it.

Any help is appreciated.

--Joel

[Gussie2000]

Hey everyone, I am having a local trusted mechanic work on my VX. He is doing timing belt, component kit, water pump, etc...

He is also doing the valve shims. All the shims are out of spec, and a few are WAY out of spec. He said he needed a tool, part# J-42689 I guess it is the tool that removes/replaces the shims? Does anyone know where I can get one of these tools besides ebay? Does he even need the tool, or would a screwdriver work? He asked me because he was having a hard time locating it.

Any help is appreciated.

--Joel

My Vx had the valves adjusted,i'll call the mech & ask him where he boughts the tool.Your mech needs that tool in order to work with more efficiency.a screw driver can mess up any thing

[VCrossfan]

If he has the belt already changed and he's having troubles read the below post. And if he hasn't replaced it yet tell him not to lose the pump/timing/unload etc. When I replaced mine I made sure I didn't lose the pump or timing, when you remove the tensioner it will want to unload and rotate. I zip tied the original belt on both overhead cams and made sure I didnot lose the timing. I replaced the H20 Pump, compressed the New tensioner set the pin to hold and installed the new belt from the crank up under the H20 pump and slide it on both cams by pushing the old belt off with the new one. then releasing the tensioner. Read the post below also...

I've never changed the timing belt in the VXs, so this is just a SWAG:

1. The OHCs are "direct attack" or whatever. The intake/exhaust cams are phased off of a single cog on each side. One whole bank of your engine would be out of time, this would explain the backfiring (exhaust valves open at detonation) and the misfire in cylinders 1 and 3 (same side).

2. If you simply took out (a good, whole) belt, and put in another, why would you have had to rotate the camshaft cog(s) at all? As long as the crank didn't rotate (in the absence of a belt), the camshafts and crank/piston arrangement should have went unchanged.

3. It's apparent that the #2 piston was not at TDC when the belt was originally removed -it's too late to do anything about it. Those timing marks are designed to line up under ONE condition, this eliminates the possibility of installing the belt in a '180 out' configuration.
Remember, during the suck-squish-bang-blow cycle, the #2 piston moves to the top of its travel 2 times. It's possible to locate the #2 piston's uppermost position and STILL be 180* out of phase (in relation to the camshafts' intake/exhaust arrangement). Next time, ensure that the #2 is at TDC AND the marks line up before removing the old belt.

O.K. what to do now:
You can't go any further on your own. Thank Isuzu for building a non-interference engine, because your timing is bonked.
Pretend that you broke the old belt, and take it in to a shop -one that has experience in DOHC V6s.
They will have to locate the correct positions for each of the OHC banks and the crankshaft based off of the firing order and the position of the camshafts' lobes (yes, they will be pulling your valve covers, unless there is a guru there with a fiber optic scope who can look through your oil filler hole (think gynecologist/mechanic) and determine your camshaft orientation).

It sucks that you have to pay some shop to do the work, but hey, your time has value. Think of all of the trial and error work, as well as typing and waiting for responses and it all adds up. AAA and a few (hundred) bucks and it'll be a memory.

RLTW

[logman]

He is putting a new timing belt on, and replacing everything. He wanted to wait on the timing belt, and just do the shims first.

Let me know if you have any idea as to where i can find the tool.

Thanks Guys.

[kpaske]

Another word of warning - there is a TSB out on how to change that timing belt and reset the timing if it gets off. Most manuals (including the one I own, PLUS the VX manual on CD are WRONG). You can find a copy of the TSB in my gallery, or just let the mechanic know about it and he can probably download it himself.

Sorry, can't help with finding the tool though.

[Triathlete]

Check with Merlin at St Charles Isuzu. If he doesn't have it I bet he can tell you were you can get it.
Mention the site and you get a discount and free shipping.

[logman]

my mechanic found the tool! eBay of all places, I guess a seller had the tool, but didn't have it upon eBay. My mechanic called and it's on the way. 50 bucks! That's way better than the $181 SPX quoted me. I guess it's the same or similar to the tool used on the GM shortstar engine.

If anyone needs valves done on a VX or
trooper, I have a trusted long time family mech that will do it near grand rapids, mi.

Merry Christmas everyone!

Thanks for all the help!!