is decVX (Dave) and from his posting for sale:
New tires((5) Firestone Destination M/T's 31x10.50R15LT with nice new Custom 31" chrome wheels,
is decVX (Dave) and from his posting for sale:
New tires((5) Firestone Destination M/T's 31x10.50R15LT with nice new Custom 31" chrome wheels,
Live, Love, Forgive and Never Give Up
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Grif
Rims are (need more info)
Tires are (need more info)
(Lifted)
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Rims are: I wish I knew!
Tires are: 285-75-16 Treadwright GuardDogs on BFG carcasses
Lift: 3in OME
Front hubs are Superwinch.
What it is more specifically is that when I used to have the old 16's on, the TOD would not light up (past one bar) unless it really was pushed (rain, sand, etc...). Now with the new 18's, when I am doing a little harder than normal acceleration in first or second gear, I will get three bars of TOD for a split second. I was wondering if that was normal...
I painted my factory 16's this weekend.
Lifted w/ OME 912's and Daystar spacers in rear, torsion bar crank and differential drop in front
Tires are Definity Dakota 285/75's (33" OD)
Paint color is Gun Metal Grey Metallic. It's a GM color according to the can. Bought it at Autozone, along with adhesion promoter, primer, truck bed coating gritty black and clear coat sealer.
The truck bed coater gives it a nice rough texture and hides all the imperfections associated with painting in your driveway on a windy day! Put that down over the primer, and the paint coats over that and it works perfectly!!!
I'll have to get a picture of them in the sun, as the metal flakes make them a little lighter in direct light.
Last edited by Bob Barker : 07/18/2011 at 03:41 PM Reason: had the wrong tire size listed
Those wheels are pretty sweet. I am concerned about your height. Do you wheel it? If so, you must only have about 3" of wheel travel in the front, GREATLY reducing offroad capability, especially without a front locker.
Nah, I play in the dirt and mud when I can, but nothing serious. I have looked into the front ball joint flips and different bump stops, but I'll most likely not be doing anything real serious any time soon.
But I did find a nice set of Warn manual hubs that I hope fit in Planetisuzoo. Then at least if I get into anything real gnarly they will be the first, and cheapest, thing to snap. Like an inline fuse! I also wanted one of the super flexy IFS kits but can't afford one of those for what I do with the truck.
Attachment 1474
Wheels: Isuzu 16x7.5 Snowflakes
Tires: 255/70R16 Dunlop Radial Rover RVXT
The tires look pretty whitebread in this image but they're really sharp in person. The Snowflakes have a neutral offset, resulting in the whole unit sitting about an inch and a half proud of the wells. Much thanks to Riffraff for help in selecting them.
Snowflakes are nice, that is what I have in the garage for the wifes Trooper RS mudders. I now have 4 sets of wheels and tires to fit the 2 Zus....lol. Two sets of ATs, one set alright, the other set less than 1K miles. Two sets of mudders, my Kevlars and her treadwrights. Bring on the Zombie revolution!!!!
Ball joint flip does not improve wheel travel, only facilitates alignment. As for the bumpstops, be careful, they are there for a reason. The protect the CV shaft from impacting the lower control arm, I believe Uncle SAS has a story about that.
The SFIFS only works if you lower the front back down. No sense in forcing 3-4" of wheel travel, that is a waste. When I installed mine, I moved back to near stock height with 34s. Minimal rubbing, and some minor pounding/cutoff wheel in the front.
I used to be like you with the cranked up front end. Crappy handling and crappy ride offroad. Without a locker, you just greatly reduced your performance since you a very likely to have a front tire off the gournd (rock crawling, if for mud, I suppose it doesn't matter). I love the look of it jacked up, but its kind of like having fancy skater shoes,they don't really help you at all, just make you look cool