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Thread: Completely OT secret project...

  1. #16
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    And the latest WIP...trying to reach a broader market with a "Barbie size" model.
    Yes, I believe your GI Joe with the kung fu grip would fit too...
    Decided to go with real carbon fiber veneer on the lid...:_drool:


  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub View Post
    And the latest WIP...trying to reach a broader market with a "Barbie size" model.
    Yes, I believe your GI Joe with the kung fu grip would fit too...
    Decided to go with real carbon fiber veneer on the lid...:_drool:

    sweet dub...i might have to pick your brain about building a sub box for my VX with carbon fiber...
    "Do Not Seek Praise. Seek Criticism."

    "If You Can't Solve A Problem, It's Because You're Playing By The Rules."

    "The Perosn Who Doesn't Make Mistakes Is Unlikely To Make Anything."

    -Paul Arden

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbkid View Post
    sweet dub...i might have to pick your brain about building a sub box for my VX with carbon fiber...
    It's just self stick veneer from a company I found online...nothing I'm able to do myself...

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub View Post
    It's just self stick veneer from a company I found online...nothing I'm able to do myself...
    oh ok...how did you get it to look shiny???

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbkid View Post
    oh ok...how did you get it to look shiny???
    It comes that way in sheets, I've used up most of what I had in inventory.
    I'll post a link to where to get it later.
    Last edited by Ldub : 02/13/2009 at 10:59 PM

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbkid View Post
    oh ok...how did you get it to look shiny???
    Jack, here's a link to the company where I get the c-f sheets from...
    They come pre finished with a clear resin coat, the peel & stick 3M backing is an additional $4.00 per.
    Click on "rigid carbon fiber panels" on the home page, & you'll find quite a selection of colors, sizes, thicknesses, etc.
    Not cheap, but good quality stuff...

    http://compositeenvisions.com/
    Last edited by Ldub : 02/15/2009 at 11:03 AM

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub View Post
    Jack, here's a link to the company where I get the c-f sheets from...
    They come pre finished with a clear resin coat, the peel & stick 3M backing is an additional $4.00 per.
    Click on "rigid carbon fiber panels" on the home page, & you'll find quite a selection of colors, sizes, thicknesses, etc.
    Not cheap, but good quality stuff...

    http://compositeenvisions.com/
    nice, well with my tax returns it looks like i may be re-vamping my sound system...so these very likely could be included in my box....

    i dont know if enough people are viewing this thread to respond (sorry to thread jack a little but we are talking about boxes )
    for anyone who has their subs built into their rear door....how is your box secured??? i wanna do mine in this style but i cant figure out a good way to secure them in there...
    anyone?

  8. #23
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    Lightbulb

    Quote Originally Posted by pbkid View Post
    nice, well with my tax returns it looks like i may be re-vamping my sound system...so these very likely could be included in my box....

    i dont know if enough people are viewing this thread to respond (sorry to thread jack a little but we are talking about boxes )
    for anyone who has their subs built into their rear door....how is your box secured??? i wanna do mine in this style but i cant figure out a good way to secure them in there...
    anyone?
    Try pm'ing psychos2 , he makes a nice door/spare sub enclosure & may help you out...or check his gallery for ideas.
    Also, check Kennys gallery...

  9. #24
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    when i was thinking of doing mine i was gonna use the spare tire mount to secure it.. basically build the box to fit without loading it, then put it into place, use the 3 bolts that hold the spare tire mount in place to bolt it to the door, then load the sub(s) in after its secured.. if you wanted to remove it, you would have to remove your subs, but theres not much reason that you would need to remove it anyway

  10. #25
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    ya i was thinking about that...but i would want to be able to remove it if necessary...just incase i needed to dome something with my CB antenna or my back-up camera...

  11. #26
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    only other thing i could think of is to make L shaped mounting tabs that came out over the screw holes for the interior tailgate panel, but you would probably want to find something sturdier than the factory plastic screws to hold it in place.. iirc somebody made some replacements out of aluminum didnt they? that could work

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by etlsport View Post
    only other thing i could think of is to make L shaped mounting tabs that came out over the screw holes for the interior tailgate panel, but you would probably want to find something sturdier than the factory plastic screws to hold it in place.. iirc somebody made some replacements out of aluminum didnt they? that could work
    i wasnt aware of an aluminum style, that would work perfectly...

    i got some tips from psychos2 earlier, he said that it sits behind the lip on the bottom, which sounds good on bottom, but i need to figure out a way to hold it in there and keep it still...
    maybe some brackets to the side, bolted to the brackets where the stock plastic screws go...

  13. #28
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    SBC makes the metal replacement "screws"...



    ...or you could just use a really big piece of velcro!
    Last edited by Triathlete : 02/15/2009 at 09:08 PM
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  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Triathlete View Post
    SBC makes the metal replacement "screws"...



    ...or you could just use a really big piece of velcro!
    you and i both know that velcro wouldnt hold up in moab...plus you would get some serious rattles...

  15. #30
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    pbkid,
    I have two 8" subs in airtight mdf enclosures mounted on one mdf "backplate" in the spare tire compartment. The whole assembly is held on by three bolts where the original spare tire mounting plate was attached. The backside of the assembly is covered in felt to minimize vibrations against the metal. Both of my amps are mounted on the backplate, between the enclosures, along with my power and ground distribution blocks. All the wiring is routed through a new hole in the hinge side of the door, and into the left side via the tail light. It has worked well for a year so far.........

    Randy

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