Wouldn't BrakeKleen be a little too harsh for the cladding? If that is the stuff that is made to clean gunk off of engine blocks it may melt the cladding. I would try it on a hidden area first to make sure it doesn't do any damage.
Wouldn't BrakeKleen be a little too harsh for the cladding? If that is the stuff that is made to clean gunk off of engine blocks it may melt the cladding. I would try it on a hidden area first to make sure it doesn't do any damage.
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Categorically NOT the same thing! It's primarily designed to clean off drum/disc brake surfaces and brake parts prior to reassembly; as such, it's designed to leave NO chemical residue whatsoever! While it is invasive on SOME plastics, I don't think there would be a problem on the cladding - of course, try it in an inconspicuous place first...
What about using Windex to prep it? I recall somebody has been using Windex on the cladding to make it look good. So it apparently doesn't dry it out too bad...maybe it would be a pretty good prep solution to get off most of the "oily" type products we've put on it (Back to Black, etc...)
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If you have used a silicon-based product in the last year, I would try to clean it off first. Any wild organic solvent will work for that.
The "oily products" come off by themselves (which is their problem, of course). If you put any of them on recently, then maybe it would be worth removing prior to refinishing. Brakekleen sounds like it would be way too harsh!
Otherwise, just wash normally & dry thoroughly. Be mindful of the Torx-head cladding screws - use compressed air to get the water out of them. Water seemed to make the product go on somewhat unevenly.
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ROWHARD--- I would try the WINDEX idea first on a sample cladding location, as it is an extremely "mild" cleaner and won't harm anything. If that doesn't work well; then upgrade to 409 Cleaner, as 409 is a bit more powerful than WINDEX. It is always wiser to begin with a mild type cleaner, and then gradually upgrade to a stronger cleaner as required to accomplish the mission. SIMPLE GREEN; might be an option, too. AIM HIGH!!!
Seems like application is swirly and uneven, does it come off? Definately looks better than grey washed out side but looks like you have put nothing on bad cladding for long time. I use Back to Black and it does collect dust somewhat but nothing seems to be perfect for the cladding IMO. Definaely looks better than nothing on the cladding.
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back on topic... I put this stuff on my VX last fall... and the cladding still looks great even after driving it daily through the hard New England Winter and dozens of washes
it's hard to say if it's faded at all... but let me at least say that it doesn't even need to be freshened up or anything...
FWIW I pained it on... basically took a horsehair brush and a small hand held paint container and pained the cladding with it, after 15 minutes I wiped it all off with a shop rag.
it didn't damage the paint or any of the bumper lights
one bad thing is that it pooled up a little bit in a couple of the bolt holes, I think I didn't wipe it out as well as I could have and there are 2 bolts that have a 1/2" drip streak below them (which has also lasted the winter and is still visible today) but the rest of them came out a-ok... so just make sure you wipe it off well.
everyone thinks my VX is a brand new car... they're shocked when I tell them it's 10 years old and has 120 thousand miles on it
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