Window fixin' party

[tom4bren]

turbo,

I used black RTV on the ones we did last weekend. I chose the RTV instead of liquid nails since I am familiar with it's characteristics and was confident in not only the strength but also in it's ability to adhere to glass. I didn't want to use the liquid nails since it cures hard and I wanted the option of being able to remove the bracket later if needed.

Tom

[lasturbo]

I like that option too so it sounds like black RTV is the trick! Thanks!!

[frog11]

Well I was patient enough to wait a week for the sealant to fully dry and WOW, the window works great. It is better than new and goes up and down very quick and perfectly straight. Wish I would have done this repair long ago.

For anyone else out there that has been hesitant to try this, don't put it off.

[tom4bren]

Good news for those that needed it:

TheGanzman posted this in another thread:

"For the record, I bought a set from Merlin recently - they're ~$4.00 apiece..."

He's talking about the vapor barrier.

[Cobrajet]

I finally got around to uploading the videos to Youtube. The first one (removal) wouldn't complete processing in HD, so I had to convert it to lo-rez.

Window Removal
Window Prep Pt1 (Fun with power tools)
Window Prep Pt2 (Doing it the easy way)
Window Install (Simple as 1-2-3)

These are NOT intended to be instructional videos, just show that even TOM can do it, and not break anything. And it can be fun!!

[tom4bren]

Here is my response to some questions about VX KAT's pix of Tim installing her brackets:

1. What is he using in Pic 9 to remove the old bracket? It looks like a small sawzall.

That's funny. I never really looked at the pictures till you asked (they are of Tim installing the brackets on VX KAT's). I thought I was being creative when I used a rotary tool to make that very same cut using a drywall bit. It looks like he's using a dremmel. You may be able to skip this step if you want. Just slide a razor blade under the tab & cut through the glue on both sides of the glass. Of course if that doesn't work, you'll have to make the cut (but several of the tabs actually fell off when we removed the window from the door). If you have to make the cut, it helps to break the tab to give yourself more room to work.

2. On Pic 10 is the SBC bracket mounted 1st using both bolts to the regulator?

That's how I did it. Leave the bolts 'wobbly' loose at this point though. Once the adhesive is applied and the glass dropped into the slot, roll the window up to make sure everything is aligned. Only tighten the bolts with the window in the up position.

3. It looks like on Pics 11 & 13 the glue is applied first then window is dropped into the glue using the guides on the glass to the bracket?

Yes it is. You'll want a good bonding surface so apply the adhesive liberally and let it squish out. Remember, adhesive that you can scrape off after the install isn't providing any bonding strength so you can leave it in place or clean it off (your preference). On all 4 of the windows that we did, I bolted in the brackets first and then added the adhesive (I don't know why). In retrospect I should have put the adhesive in the bracket first since the center post on the regulator is kind of in the way and makes it difficult.

4. On pic 15 the bracket bolt is off and don?t know why?

Yer right. The bolt isn't there but it looks like it is in the next picture. I don't know why he removed it for that step - it doesn't need to be.

5. What is pic 17 trying to show?

I'm not sure. If I had to guess, I'd say that he's showing that the weather strip is not properly bonded to the front channel. Or maybe he's showing the marks from where she had previously widened her channel.

From what I've seen, fixing the window is a combination of things. The SBC brackets are the largest contributor though. Mine still tilts so I've got to open it back up & try some of the other fixes. I need to add a couple of washers between the SBC bracket and the mounting arm (CSTYLES did that after the install & fixed the last of his problems), this forces the regulator against the center guide and relieves stress from the guide tabs which are also breaking. Widen the front channel to take out the remaining binding. There's supposed to be an adjustment that will allow you to push the front channel forward slightly to keep it from binding on the edge of the glass.

[tom4bren]

I finally got my passenger window working (acceptable but not perfect). It still tilts but not enough to come out of the rear weather stripping. I tried widening the front channel - No Go. I tried adjusting the front channel both forward and back - No Go. What worked for me was to add some washers in key locations to force the window guide against the regulator (not sure if I'm using the right terms) - basically the part that slides up & down the center post.

Each of the 6 bolts got 2 washers except the top 2. I could only fit 1 washer between the door panel and the center post there.