What A Kick In The Pants!!!!!

[LittleBeast]

I'd use "Marine Grade"...

Yes, that is what I used, and I pulled the windows and cleaned the heck out of them and then left them in my garage to dry overnight, then I put them back in the VX the next day after they had cured completely for 24hours with no moving around at all.

[JAMAS]

I don't think I can safely apply the brackets to the windows outside of the tracks because I didn't mark them good enough.

I am going to do all of what you said, but have them dry in the "up" position.

[tom4bren]

"after they had cursed completely for 24hours"

*(&^%^&$#%^&

BWAAHAAHAA!!

[LittleBeast]

I don't think I can safely apply the brackets to the windows outside of the tracks because I didn't mark them good enough.

I am going to do all of what you said, but have them dry in the "up" position.

You can always just put them back in there roll window all the way up and mark again. But I am sure you will be ok if you just let them cure in the up position. Yeah once I did put them back in I don't think I tried rolling them up and down for a week or so, I put masking tape over the buttons because I know how forgetful I am especially at drive thrus,

[LittleBeast]

"after they had cursed completely for 24hours"

*(&^%^&$#%^&

BWAAHAAHAA!!

I am really glad you still have not figured out how to click the "quote" button below the reply you want to respond to

[tom4bren]

Not nearly as much fun

Edit: Actually what I should have said is that 'paraphrasing is MUCH more fun'.

[JAMAS]

I removed my windows and rubber tracks last night. Even on the side that still had the bracket attached, the liquid nails was still liquidy. It hadn't cured after over 48 hours. I also found that the driver side rubber was torn down the center channel. So now I am going to order new rubber from Merlin (hopefully available and only about $8 a side still) this morning and wait patiently. After everything comes in, I am going to add white lithium grease to the channels, reinstall the gasket, then install windows and attach to brackets. I am planning on using marine grade epoxy. After seeing how little everything cured, I moved from my thoughts of RTV to a marine grade epoxy that is supposed to be able to cure underwater. Figured that would take care of my problem once and for all(I hope).

The good news is, I am AMAZINGLY fast at removing door panels, windows, etc. after all the practice I have had. I am in the West Chester, OH area if anyone wants assistance.

[tom4bren]

JAMAS,

Read your marine grade epoxy carefully. It shouldn't apply to a 2 part epoxy but ...

I used some marine grade RTV once and didn't realize that it required UV (sunlight) to cure. Since it was in a windowless room - it NEVER cured.

Tom

[rowhard]

something else I did was drill some holes thru the bracket so there would be a little squeeze out

[JAMAS]

Will do. It's supposed to be able to cure underwater so I hope it doesn't apply. I will check though.

I just got off the phone with Merlin. $69 a side for the new window track rubber. I don't know where I read about the $8 a side, but that sucks. Oh well, at least it will be fixed.

[tom4bren]

"It's supposed to be able to cure underwater"

So was the marine RTV.

You should be OK though since 1/2 of the 2 part epoxy is the catalyst.

"I don't know where I read about the $8 a side"

That was in an earlier thread - it was quickly disproved.

[JAMAS]

something else I did was drill some holes thru the bracket so there would be a little squeeze out

Thats not a bad idea. Maybe that could be suggested to SBC as a version 2 of the brackets.

[JAMAS]

Well, I reinstalled the new window gasket with lithium grease in track, new vapor barrier, and reglued the SBC bracket using marine grade epoxy.

The brackets seem to be rock solid now (knock on wood) and the windows go up and down. However, there seems to be a little binding on the front and some freeplay in the window guide so when the window goes up the initial jarring from the motor starts to tilt if forward, then it corrects itself and the seats properly (think of the window making a "D", also see window raising pattern below). I am thinking I need to widen the front tracks. However, I cant find a "how-to" on that. I searched and just found it mentioned. Can anyone provide assistance on the best/easiest way to do that?

Thanks!

Window Raising pattern:
___

___

___

___

___

___

___

[VX KAT]

yeah, I did find the track widening instructions, they were in a thread by "phines"....but now I'm having trouble finding it using search too....I'll keep trying..

First, clean out the rubber track as best you can. Mine had old dried up lubricant of some type and was gunky. Then put pure silicon spray all along the inside of the rubber track (both front and rear vertical tracks.)

Basically you just pry the sides of the FRONT vertical track apart (I used an adjustable wrench). I tried to spread them apart a bit, as far up the track as I could reach (putting my hand and the wrench through the metal cutout in the door). I didn't do much to the lower part as that's not where the binding is coming from.

Then PHINES advised to also bend that bracket holding the front track. Bend it toward the front of the car a little, to relieve pressure applied directly to the glass EDGE. Again I did that with adjustable wrench.

I also examined the REAR vertical track to see if I could determine if it, too, was "pinching" the glass edge...I just widened it a tad, as my binding seemed to be all from the front track.

By widening the track, the rubber molding strip that fits in the track exerted a lot less pressure on the front edge of the glass, thus less binding, and allowed my window to go up without "slowing down" midway up.

I'm told we should reapply the silicone spray at least quarterly.

Actually, I think I just covered everything that was in phines post.
Hope it helps!

[Ldub]

This may also prove useful...

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ight=vice+grip