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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhigareda View Post
    Im interested in the hitch. is it easy to install???
    Here's pics of Dub doing my install:
    I think the drilling through to the 2nd tier of vertical steel was fairly dicey to get it perfectly aligned with the front piece.






    VX KAT
    ....the adventure BEGINS ANEW! ...2015......
    Remember that life is not measured in the breaths you take, but rather in the moments that take your breath away.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhigareda View Post
    Im interested in the hitch. Is this price fair and is it easy to install???
    Only you can decide on the price...it's more than I paid for mine.

    I installed mine in about 3 hours. Worst part is taking off the cladding.

    Make sure you measure twice and drill once so that the holes line up with the exisiting holes in the frame.

    See this for more info...

    http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=19428
    Last edited by Mile High VX : 01/04/2011 at 07:05 PM
    Live, Love, Forgive and Never Give Up

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mile High VX View Post
    ...it's more than I paid for mine.
    Mile High, IMO, not sure you can count yours in since your seller apparently just really wanted to move it & sold it for really really low. They sold for around $150 when new.

  4. #4
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    His prices on all the small stuff look very fair to me. I think I remember paying about that much when I bought my hitch from Tone directly. The bumper may be a bit overpriced as Mile High noted above, but I wouldn't hesitate to pull the trigger on the hitch.

    Just my $.02.

    EDIT: Install difficulty depends on how adept you are in the mechanical arts. My understanding (I paid someone to do it) is that you need to remove and cut the bumper, drill 2-4 new holes for the bolts, cut a section out of the bumper reinforcement, and then reattach the cladding. Not too bad, but again it depends on your skill level and what tools you already have at your disposal.

  5. #5
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    Wrench

    Quote Originally Posted by VX KAT View Post
    Dub didn't cut the bumper reinforcement...but you do, of course have to cut your cladding. Larry, jump in here with details!
    Yah, the bumper reenforcement needs to be cut, you might be thinking of something else...

    The bumper reenforcement is that tubular gizmo that bolts to the body, & also is where the lower cladding bolts fasten.

    The center section gets enough material removed from the lower run, for the receiver to pass through that plane of being...

    Remember when we went to the hardware for 7/8"(IIRC) plastic caps?...

    That was to seal the cut ends of the tubular thingy.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub View Post
    Yah, the bumper reenforcement needs to be cut, you might be thinking of something else... (Yeah, that MUST be it! Perhaps I was tending to Cujo at that time....)

    The bumper reenforcement is that tubular gizmo that bolts to the body, & also is where the lower cladding bolts fasten.

    The center section gets enough material removed from the lower run, for the receiver to pass through that plane of being...

    Remember when we went to the hardware for 7/8"(IIRC) plastic caps?... Well, I do remember going to the hardware store.....

    That was to seal the cut ends of the tubular thingy.
    This is why I don't handle sharp objects....

  7. #7
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    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by VX KAT View Post
    This is why I don't handle sharp objects....
    But DO own several handguns...

    U know who luvs ya Suzee......

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub View Post
    But DO own several handguns...

    U know who luvs ya Suzee......
    I KNEW SOMEBODY was goin' say that!! Believe it or not, I'm much safer with them than sharp objects! It's the fine motor skills that are for crap, so handling small things is a joke (buttons are maddening, safety pins and binder clips make me crazy, and I've given up on pierced earrings with that little separate back.......Omega backs are my friend now ) ....but hey, I can feel and handle a weighty gun, no problem ! That's why I'm having fun with my new sport!

    U know who luvs ya Dubster..........

  9. #9
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    Thanks VT I may jump on hitch since who knows when ill see another. I can have my friend make a few when I have it.... hmm

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhigareda View Post
    Thanks VT I may jump on hitch since who knows when ill see another. I can have my friend make a few when I have it.... hmm
    Tom4Bren did exactly that, took a Tone hitch to his "WelderGuy", who replicated it. Mine's from "WelderGuy".

  11. #11
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    Wow it's so tiny. Do you know what the tow rating is?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhigareda View Post
    Wow it's so tiny. Do you know what the tow rating is?
    T4B maybe could answer that. The VX isn't even rated to tow anything. Most just tow smaller/lighter items like jet skis, cargo boxes, small/mini utility trailers.
    I chose not to get the metal on the sides to hook up safety chains cuz I'm not going to tow anything like that.

  13. #13
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    Mitsubishi-Branded Borbet CW3's in Europe

    Ad says he only posts to Europe, but with a current bid of only $60 and no reserve maybe he could be talked into shipping worldwide for more $$$? If you're wondering, it's easy enough to remove the Mitsu labels, they're just stickers.

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/18-Zoll-Borbet...item4155a07817


  14. #14
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    Dont mean to ramble on but does anyone have vented rear rotors? I read somewhere that was a stock for these and I looked and don not have them. I was planning on re-doing my brakes since I dont know when they were done last.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhigareda View Post
    Dont mean to ramble on but does anyone have vented rear rotors? I read somewhere that was a stock for these and I looked and don not have them. I was planning on re-doing my brakes since I dont know when they were done last.
    Just an FYI, but you may have already read about the brakes. The OEMs last an incredibly long time...many have gone 80k - 100k on them. I think they're ceramic IIRC. Oddly, some wear out the rear before the front...usually it's the opposite of course.
    I'm at 75k on original OEMs, got 30% remaining on front, 50% on rear.
    Many recommend replacing with OEM pads since they're so good. They're pricey but apparently worth it. Also, many get the stainless brake lines (from Indy4x) and report improved braking performance.

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