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Thread: Removing stubborn bolts

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ascinder View Post
    Apply heat to the area and press a crayon into the thread area. It's an old wheeling trick and it works better than wd-40 or liquid wrench.
    Which ones work better? Crayola or the generic ones you get at restaurants with kids place mats?

    Bart

  2. #17
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    Wrench I love this one

    Quote Originally Posted by nfpgasmask View Post
    Which ones work better? Crayola or the generic ones you get at restaurants with kids place mats?

    Bart
    Hey gas mask have you been under there and seen just how accesible the bolts are, let alone the threads? After getting the bolts out the penetrating oil seems to have gotten half way up the threads but the worst part was further up. The breaker bar, Pipe over the socket handle' worked great. I still ned to know what tool works for that 3rd bolt on the passenger side tow hook the farthest up.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by circmand View Post
    Hey gas mask have you been under there and seen just how accesible the bolts are, let alone the threads? After getting the bolts out the penetrating oil seems to have gotten half way up the threads but the worst part was further up. The breaker bar, Pipe over the socket handle' worked great. I still ned to know what tool works for that 3rd bolt on the passenger side tow hook the farthest up.
    I haven't really looked, but I did pull a rear bumper off a 1st gen Trooper at Pick & Pull and those 4 bolts were a WHORE to get off. They are accessible but only with a smaller ratchet and there isn't much room to crank. So why are you removing the hooks?

    Bart

  4. #19
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    What happens is the wax ( we use candles) gets sucked into the threads and acts as a lubricant. You will be surprised how easy they turn out if done properly. shawn
    1COOLVX

  5. #20
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    I am installing

    Quote Originally Posted by nfpgasmask View Post
    I haven't really looked, but I did pull a rear bumper off a 1st gen Trooper at Pick & Pull and those 4 bolts were a WHORE to get off. They are accessible but only with a smaller ratchet and there isn't much room to crank. So why are you removing the hooks?

    Bart
    a Curt Trailer Hitch. You have to remove tow hooks because the hitch uses those bolts and those holes to mount the hitch, plus you have to drill 4 more holes for 4 more bolts

  6. #21
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    Finally have the Trailer hitch bolted on

    I still need to drill the four holes for the other bolts but finally got the damn tow hooks off.

    A quick tip, The driver side has one bolt holding the tow hook on the passenger side has three. For those who are unaware that 3rd bolt is so far up its like having the doctor removing your tonsils via your rectum. (doing that can really wreckem, get it?) I tries for many hours. If I had known I could remove 3/4 of the cladding in 10 minutes and had easy access I would have gone that way no debate about it.

    Some more tips If you have the Curt hitch;
    1. Your spare tire makes a convenient booster to get the hitch up clode to the frame
    2. a hydraulic jack works great for the rest of the way once you have 1 side bolted.
    3. not all cladding screws will be easily put back as the hitch blocks several a 10mm wrench and screwdriver handle helpd getting them in and out.
    4. Doing this in 120 degree temp is not fun or advisable
    5. for ease of bolting I always screw in the bolts before using to make sure they go in properly, make sure to remove them before installing yor hitch.
    6. At this time JCWhitney has the Curt hitch for $168 includes shipping and the ball holder.
    7. directions can be found in the hollow of the hitch this will save valuable hold time with JCWhitney

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