My old Dodge spent the last 1/2 of it's life with a chain impression down the hood from a similar situation.
My old Dodge spent the last 1/2 of it's life with a chain impression down the hood from a similar situation.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Put a smiley after you say that Bub.
If any of you watched the Top Gear: Polar Special, you will know that they used a special "bungee" strap to pull their stuck Toyota Hilux out of snow/ocean slush. It took a couple of attempts, but they said it was a very gentle way to "yank" someone out of the snow. Hook up this long bungee cord, get a running start, stretch to the limit, then stop and wait for the other vehicle to snap back. Sounds good to me.
Gregg
2001 Proton Yellow #1379
That's good for muck where there is a measure of 'suction' to overcome. It's not really needed for a snowbank.
BTW, the running start ... really isn't. You're supposed to inch forward until the strap becomes tight but not stretched. At that point, the recovery vehicle guns it. The stretch of the strap will provide a measure of momentum to overcome the suction of being stuck in muck.
A running start will only guarantee a broken strap, potential damage to both vehicles and possible injury to anyone within reach of the strap.
... or so I've heard ... I've never experimented to find out.
So what type of tow strap should I get?
Hook end ....or loop end?
and any poundage limit?
anything to keep in mind when I buy the shackle?
I think I am going to buy something this week, just to be on the safe side.
I think I am going to get a strap instead of a chain, mostly for the ease of storage.
Tow strap 101 (I'm no expert, don't claim to be one, may not be 100% right...but, I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night)
NEVER buy a tow strap with hooks. Get a good quality strap with loops on the end to be used with a clevis shackle.
Tow straps have a built in "stretch" and make pulling/yanking/tugging smoother.
Clevis shackles come in different sizes...make sure to get ones that will fit your mounting points. For the VX 1" will work with some effort but the 3/4" fit better.
You can get a good quality strap at most good 4x4 shops.
Personally I would never use a chain...they are not pretty when they break.
Placing a blanket/jacket or something over the strap is a good idea but not a necessity. Straps don't store enough energy (much like sythetic winch rope) to do damage...but always error on the side of safety. I think most were thinking of wire winch rope. Unless of course the strap has hooks on the end...but again refer to the first tip.
And a strap can be doubled over to shorten it in half.
I am sure there is a lot more and not everyone will agree with me but this is just my 2 cents...take it for what its worth.
Billy Oliver
15xIronman
My Sponsors:
Accelerate3Coaching
TriSports.com (PM me for 1 time use 20% off code)
Speaking of pulling people out...here is a good one.
Heres the forum post that talks about it.
Loop ends and shackles! Hooks are for fishing
Make sure you get 2 shackles. (that is if the towee has a shackle point of connection)
And yes the higher lb the better as long as it is still able to bend to get to the tow point needed
Last edited by AlaskaVX : 12/22/2009 at 04:01 PM
2001 Ironman Daily Driver... 3.5" suspension lift (OME912 springs and 1" spring spacer), ball joint flip, 1.5" front diff. drop, 33"x12.5 TrXus MT, 16x10 Eagle Alloy rims, Interceptor, PV muffler, K&N air filter, Alpine Supercharger, Bilstein shocks, and some trimming.
2000 Ironman Project LS-1 VX... very slow progress but someday....... ohhhhh someday......
Agree with the others about the loop ends + shackles.
Definitely the way to go.
Buy your strap, I use one rated at SWL (Safe Working Load) 8000kg (17600 lbs) and have never looked like breaking it. (And I did once tow a truck out).
Then buy shackles to suit the strap and your attachment points.
Make sure that the shackle SWL exceeds the rope SWL.
If something is going to break, it should be the strap - safer that way.
If you can, buy "bow shackles". They are made of higher tensile steel, so are smaller and lighter for the same strength.
Always double check your connections to make sure they are secure.
Nothing worse than broken equipment flying through the air, and nothing better than the feeling of a successful rescue.
Sort of like a soft afterglow with a permanent smile on your face.
Or was I thinking of something else??
PK
Now that food has replaced sex in my life -
I can't even get into my own pants!!
If I am not mistaken, winter mode just starts the tranny in 3rd gear? So why bother going to 4lo if you are going to start in 3rd gear in low, which I would think is about the same as 4hi 1st gear? Just curious. I wish it would snow here so I could play too I would drive around all day pulling people out of the snow just for fun.
In addition to the straps, bring a few flashlights. It would suck trying to strap a car at dusk or after dark. I would also evaluate getting a collapsible shovel for digging snow from under the vehicle to get to a tow point.
I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
Thomas Jefferson
If not you can double the strap back after wrapping around there connecting point either to your shackle (halving it) or double it back and put the shackle through the loop and then around the strap...(does that make sense?).Make sure you get 2 shackles. (that is if the towee has a shackle point of connection)
yup, the dub has the right idea...
winter mode keeps the wheels from spinning and the engine from rapping out.
generally when pulling someone, you wanna use torque instead of horsepower, therefore you would rather use a lower RPM and 'winter mode' will complete that attempt.
i just have tried pulling people in every combination possible and i have had the most success with 4LO and winter mode.
in fact- i have pulled a tacoma, with a siezed motor, in gear...... uphill....... without spinning a tire in this mode.
and yes jamas, most 'offroaders' agree that you should NEVER EVER use a strap with hooks on the end, they quickly become the weak point and snap, therefor throwing a metal hook at your windshield at very high speeds.....
use a looped strap (i use a 4" strap with 3/4" shackles) with ARB shackles (they can be found for around $15-20 a piece)
good luck!!
"Do Not Seek Praise. Seek Criticism."
"If You Can't Solve A Problem, It's Because You're Playing By The Rules."
"The Perosn Who Doesn't Make Mistakes Is Unlikely To Make Anything."
-Paul Arden
Here's one of me pulling a stuck truck last February http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNeGOeGvYdE
I used a kinetic strap. The lorry had a recovery pin and I have a NATO hitch on the rear of my Paj, so nice and easy.
Another point when buying shackles... Most modern cars have screw in recovery eyes (well they do in the UK anyway!). I know from experience that they are very small. So buy a small shackle. Make sure it is rated to the required strength, which shouldn't be a problem as they are very strong. I spent lots of time during heavy snow back in February not being able to help folks as I only had a large shackle which didn't fit a lot of eyes.
Nick
Last edited by alterastro : 12/23/2009 at 01:43 AM
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
1997 Vehicross with mods coming! --- 1995 Pajero with lots of mods!
2000 Audi Allroad - Wife won't let me mod
Owner of the Four Wheel Drive Club in the UK - pop in and say hi! Click pic for link.